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what kind of axe for splitting?

Started by motif, September 14, 2010, 03:35:59 PM

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motif

I'd like to buy an axe but when I went to the store I've seen many different axes with different handles, blades etc.
I'd assume the bigger the better right? to do the job by itself...and how about the blade, there are some with special
hardened ones. Is it worthy?

 

or maybe regular one will do the job like in the old days...


beenthere

There are lots of different ones. Most have some specific purposes so they will do better at one task than another.

The Fiskars you show looks good for splitting camp wood. The other looks like it would be good for heads.  :)

What is the purpose you have in mind, or for what do you want an axe? 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

celliott

If you are only using it for splitting wood, then get a splitting maul, similar to the fiskars one you posted. A maul will split wood better, but thats all its for- you wont chop anything with it.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

motif

Quote from: beenthere on September 14, 2010, 04:52:30 PM
What is the purpose you have in mind, or for what do you want an axe? 

officially for firewood but you never know when it may come handy - e.g. when your wife is caught cheating etc...
smiley_chop

Ernie

At my age, the best one is the one that someone else is swinging
A very wise man once told me . Grand children are great, we should have had them first

Okrafarmer

Quote from: Ernie on September 14, 2010, 07:10:11 PM
At my age, the best one is the one that someone else is swinging

As long as it isn't aimed at you!

Splitting maul is the best for splitting firewood. If you want to chop down trees or use it for limbing a tree you cut down, use a regular forestry axe.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

isawlogs

 I never could use one of them splitting mauls. I have a 2 1/2 lbs spliting axe that I used. I am one that always had a twist at the end of my swing to help split and not get the axe caught in the block .. that technique don't work with a maul  ::)  What ever was not split with the axe was cut with the chainsaw .
  Now I have a hydraulique splitter, works for me  ;D
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

John Mc

Quote from: isawlogs on September 14, 2010, 08:18:11 PM
I never could use one of them splitting mauls. I have a 2 1/2 lbs spliting axe that I used. I am one that always had a twist at the end of my swing to help split and not get the axe caught in the block .. that technique don't work with a maul  ::)  What ever was not split with the axe was cut with the chainsaw .
  Now I have a hydraulique splitter, works for me  ;D

That twist is a vanishing art. Not a whole lot of people you run into these days even know what you are talking about, let alone how to do it. (Count me among one of those who never mastered it... and I'm unlikely to, since I own a hydraulic splitter now.)

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Dave Shepard

You can do the twist with a maul, and if you're really good, you can leave the bigger piece still standing for the next split. ;) Get a wood handle, your body will thank you.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Maine372

he asked for an axe, not a maul.

if you want an axe for splitting you want it as close to a triangle as possible. a short wedgy triangle. the long thin bitted axes sink into the wood without pushing it apart. i split with an axe that is less that is very light on a thin handle. i use my wrists to accelerate it rapidly before it hits the wood. i can swing it all day rather than a maul that can tire me out in a hurry. i still have a maul for the obnoxious peices and several splitting wedges. if that wont split it nothing will.

Magicman

Quote from: Maine372 on September 14, 2010, 09:32:38 PMi can swing it all day 

There are a lot of things that I "used to" could do all day.

Swinging an axe was one of them.  Now, some woods you can split with the proper axe.  Some, you do need a splitting maul and possibly splitting wedges also.  Some are better left alone.

I'm still trying to recall what I could do all day.   ;)    :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Okrafarmer

Quote from: Maine372 on September 14, 2010, 09:32:38 PM
he asked for an axe, not a maul.

if you want an axe for splitting you want it as close to a triangle as possible. a short wedgy triangle. the long thin bitted axes sink into the wood without pushing it apart. i split with an axe that is less that is very light on a thin handle. i use my wrists to accelerate it rapidly before it hits the wood. i can swing it all day rather than a maul that can tire me out in a hurry. i still have a maul for the obnoxious peices and several splitting wedges. if that wont split it nothing will.

imo, if you don't have the strength for a maul, you don't have the strength to swing an axe hard enough to do it. Now as for that little wrist flick thing to split with, if you can master that, you're ahead of the game-- some of us are just trying to hit the stick of wood in a place where it will bust burst open.

Do yourself a favor and cut your wood short, it will split a lot easier. I used to split 24" wood by hand-- 16" is so much easier, and shorter yet is easier yet.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

John Mc

Quote from: Maine372 on September 14, 2010, 09:32:38 PM
i split with an axe that is less that is very light on a thin handle. i use my wrists to accelerate it rapidly before it hits the wood. i can swing it all day rather than a maul that can tire me out in a hurry. i still have a maul for the obnoxious peices and several splitting wedges. if that wont split it nothing will.

That's one of the things a lot of people don't get about splitting wood. The speed of the ax or maul head can be more important than the weight of what you are swinging. I watched a friend of mine try to split wood with a large maul. He just didn't have the strength get the head speed up, so he was making very slow progress. Switching to a maul that weighed about 60% of what he had been using made a big difference for him.

I've heard that the "twist" mentioned in some earlier posts which helps in splitting can cause some elbow problems (or was it wrist?) Some people develop a pretty good knot or lump that never goes away. HAs anyone experienced this?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Okrafarmer

Quote from: John Mc on September 14, 2010, 10:46:36 PMI've heard that the "twist" mentioned in some earlier posts which helps in splitting can cause some elbow problems (or was it wrist?) Some people develop a pretty good knot or lump that never goes away. HAs anyone experienced this?

All I know is, my wrists are weak compared to my arms and legs, and if anything started bothering them I wouldn't be doing it long. I can split with an eight or ten pound maul quite nicely, and I don't try any special flicks.
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

John Woodworth

8lb. single bit Collins falling axe.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

motif

Quote from: Maine372 on September 14, 2010, 09:32:38 PM
if you want an axe for splitting you want it as close to a triangle as possible. a short wedgy triangle. the long thin bitted axes sink into the wood without pushing it apart. i split with an axe that is less that is very light on a thin handle. i use my wrists to accelerate it rapidly before it hits the wood. i can swing it all day rather than a maul that can tire me out in a hurry. i still have a maul for the obnoxious peices and several splitting wedges. if that wont split it nothing will.

yeah, as I recall now from physics classes that would do the trick the best plus long enough handle of course.

BTW, is it true that real man don't use hydraulic, electric or gas splitters but axe?  8)  :)

The problem with splitting my firewood is that I gather all kinds of different wood along the year to minimize the cost
of winter heating so one piece is regular and good to split - another is irregular and hard to split with an axe.
My chainsaw is not big, just 13inches bar so bigger trunks I cut slowly piece by piece (irregularly)


Quote from: Okrafarmer on September 14, 2010, 10:42:04 PM
Do yourself a favor and cut your wood short, it will split a lot easier. I used to split 24" wood by hand-- 16" is so much easier, and shorter yet is easier yet.

yes, I'm trying to cut as short as possible but the chain of my saw is running dangerously close to my holding wood leg... :(  This is just a left leg but still I prefer to keep it.

RSteiner

We have burned only wood for the past 35 heating seasons, average is about 6 full cords a year.  Until 4 years ago everything was split by hand, I have a Super Split now.

Depending on the kind of wood I was splitting I would use either a heavy axe or a 6 pound splitting maul.  I favored the axe as it was about half the weight of the maul, and I did get the hang of the "twist" which helped a lot. 

For the tough stuff I would grab the maul, the twist was not as easy or effective.  With both the axe or maul velocity made a huge difference.  You have to throw the head of whatever you are swinging through the chunk of wood not at it. 

I have one of the Fiskars (sp?) splitting axes which I use for driving wedges when falling trees.  It does a decent job of chopping off the ocasional limb or what have you.  I haven't tried it as a splitting tool. 

Get yourself both an axe and a maul and maybe a couple of steel splitting wedges if you are serious about splitting your firewood by hand.  Hand splitting is a good workout just remember to stop or take a rest when things start to get sore.

Randy
Randy

motif

Quote from: RSteiner on September 15, 2010, 09:06:23 AM

Depending on the kind of wood I was splitting I would use either a heavy axe or a 6 pound splitting maul.  I favored the axe as it was about half the weight of the maul, and I did get the hang of the "twist" which helped a lot. 

For the tough stuff I would grab the maul, the twist was not as easy or effective.  With both the axe or maul velocity made a huge difference.  You have to throw the head of whatever you are swinging through the chunk of wood not at it. 

I have one of the Fiskars (sp?) splitting axes which I use for driving wedges when falling trees.  It does a decent job of chopping off the ocasional limb or what have you.  I haven't tried it as a splitting tool. 

Get yourself both an axe and a maul and maybe a couple of steel splitting wedges if you are serious about splitting your firewood by hand.  Hand splitting is a good workout just remember to stop or take a rest when things start to get sore.

Randy

thanks Randy for useful tips. One question though how you get around returning force reaction to your hand once you hit the wood? again, it's physics right? It's good workout I'm sure and that's what I'm after but I'm concerned for my hands a little bit. Similar question comes to my mind when I see medieval knight fighting with heavy swords, every strike got to hurt...

WAP Man

I split about 10 cords a year .. 8 cords furnace wood and 2 stove wood . I like the 6 lb splitting mall for the furnance wood . For the stove wood  mostly a double bited wooden handle axe.
I do this in the winter when there's frost in the wood .
The splitting mall has a fiberglass handle  ;D which is unbreakable... the axe handle is another story .. they don't call me lightning for nothing... I never hit the same place twice  :D

dnalley

Quote from: Magicman on September 14, 2010, 09:56:55 PM
Quote from: Maine372 on September 14, 2010, 09:32:38 PMi can swing it all day 

There are a lot of things that I "used to" could do all day.

Swinging an axe was one of them.  Now, some woods you can split with the proper axe.  Some, you do need a splitting maul and possibly splitting wedges also.  Some are better left alone.

I'm still trying to recall what I could do all day.   ;)    :)

Whatever it is you're trying to recall Magic, I bet you're a lot like me.  No matter how far behind I get,  I seem to get caught up real quick  ;D

RSteiner

Quote from: motif on September 15, 2010, 10:16:21 AM




thanks Randy for useful tips. One question though how you get around returning force reaction to your hand once you hit the wood? again, it's physics right? It's good workout I'm sure and that's what I'm after but I'm concerned for my hands a little bit. Similar question comes to my mind when I see medieval knight fighting with heavy swords, every strike got to hurt...

[/quote]

I don't remember too many times that the handle of the axe of splitting maul sent a tingle of shock back into my hands when using a wooden handle.  I have felt it more using a fiberglass handle or the steel pipe handle a friend had when he had he try his monster maul, I didn't like it.

I think the reason the handle feed back has not been a problem is because of the way an old gentleman taught me how to split wood.  He told me that the handle of the tool does not split the wood, the head of the tool does.  He said, don't try to power the head of the tool through the wood with the handle use the handle to throw the head of the tool through the wood. 

At the end of the swing you are basically guiding the head with the handle and don't have to have a death grip on the handle.  Where you start your swing makes a big difference.  With the axe handle about horizontal with the ground I'd start my swing and when the head was just beyond the top of the arc the full velocity of the swing was reached so the downward part of the swing was just guiding the head into the wood.

The maul swing usually started with the head pointing straight down with a windmill around to get the max. velocity, it is actually easier on your arms too.  Splitting wood is one of those things where practice makes perfect. 

I always used a splitting block, for me I found it easier and less likely to drive the head into the dirt.  It takes a little more time to set the piece up and you my have to chase a piece now and then.  Learn to read the grain of the wood and what influence knots have on how a piece splits.  I also think green wood usually splits easier than dry wood.

Randy
Randy

ahlkey

Last year I bought the Fiskar Super Splitting Axe and now I have three for everyone. I typically hand split over 25 full cords of hardwood a year. As far as I am concerned it has retired my trusted 6lb and 8lb mauls. I still use my  12Lb Monster maul occasionally or my 3pt log splitter but this axe is a real breakthrough design and it has doubled my output. However, if you cannot swing it fast with accuracy you will not be that impressed. As a general rule use a maul that isn't too heavy for you, swinging a heavy maul will wear you out. Speed compensates for mass so a splitting tool needs to match its power source. Make sure with this Fiskars Axe you wear safety shoes with steel toes as the speed of the axe can get pretty scary.

Magicman

Quote from: dnalley on September 15, 2010, 12:50:34 PM
Whatever it is you're trying to recall Magic, I bet you're a lot like me.

I noticed your age.   ;D  Yup, I'll bet we are a lot alike.   :D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

indiaxman1

Like a lot of senior splitters, I switched over to hydraulics about 10 yrs ago...still keep a pile of blocks to hand split just to work off stress...as for mauls...I have swung 8, 6 lb mauls...but about 7 yrs ago got a Swede maul...Gransfors Bruks...3 1/2 lb job that does the job of the big boys...and has kept its edge........one more thing...broke out some wedges and sledge...hadn't done that for long time....like that ringing metal song...even knotty hickory gives it up...

Okrafarmer

The plastic handles on modern (aka made in China) mauls don't sting my hands as much as the old wooden ones did, and are much harder to break (I was always terrible about breaking handles). The wooden handles are medium tingles, they don't sting as much as the steel handles (but I never managed to break a steel handle).
He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty. Psalm 91:1

Operating a 2020 Woodmizer LT35 hydraulic for Upcountry Sawmill, Dacusville, SC

Now selling Logrite tools!

Writing fiction and nonfiction! Check my website.

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