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timber frame on slab

Started by Alexis, September 13, 2010, 12:02:07 AM

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Alexis

Hi everyone,

I changed my home project plans and will build on a slab because
1-there is only one foot of soil before bedrock on my site
2-it will help me have more thermal mass for passive solar heating

I'm wondering what is there to change in my plans... in everybook, the frame rest on a foundation and the interior post rest on the cross sills...

what have people done for interior post when building on a slab... the concrete slab will be my finish floor, only tiles will go on it so I can't find a way to use metal angle without it showing... I will still have solid 8x8 sills in the perimeter

any suggestions?

thanks

Alexis

clif

Try timberlinx.com they have a concealed concrete to post fastner.  Clif
Mighty Myte Mark IV Band Saw Mill .  " Don't let the past hold you back"

jdtuttle

Wherever you have a post make sure the concrete is thicker & you add more rebar to create footers for the load. I built my garage that way. On the perimeter below each post I dug a hole 42" deep, (frost depth here) added rebar & poured everything in one pour.
jim
Have a great day

witterbound

we did what jd said, except we poured the hole with the footings, not the slab.  We also used the 6x6 post hold downs you can get at Lowes.  They keep the posts off the concrete, and tie them down to the floor.  I will just trim the bottom the posts, just like my other walls, so the bases won't show.  Don't know about the hidden timberlinks, but that sounds like a good idea too.  I've seen some posts on slabs with just a pin to hold them in place, but not to hold them down.  I like the idea of some kind of a hold down, but I'm no engineer.

Rooster

I just recently used the Timberlinx system to secure posts to concrete columns.

http://www.timberlinx.com/cat_can.html

It had two parts.

1. CA08...8" x 7/8" concrete expansion anchor
2. AB675...6.75" Pipe. 'Half-connector' with two pins at right angle at one end

We just drilled a 7/8"x 7" hole into the concrete, countersunk the bottom of the post for the washer and nut on the expansion anchor, then drilled out for the pipe connector (1 1/8" bit), and a hole in from the side for the lock pin (expansion), secured the anchor, threaded the pipe conecter to the anchor, slipped the post on to the pipe, inserted the lock pin, and used a T-wrench to lock the pin.

Now, in your case, if you are going to tile the floor, you could put a plastic plate under the post to make up for the tile thickness. (cutting a square smaller than the footprint of the post), and cutting a circle out of the middle for the washer and nut of the anchor to pass through...this way the post doesn't sit on the concrete, the tile can be cut to fit under the post, and the connection is hidden with just a wood plug.

Here are some links that I found...I hope this helps.

Rooster

UHMW SHEET/PLATE - BLACK (REPROCESSED)

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=790&step=2&top_cat=181


Plastic Natural Sheet Polypropylene

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15656&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1154&top_cat=181
"We talk about creating millions of "shovel ready" jobs, for a society that doesn't really encourage anybody to pick up a shovel." 
Mike Rowe

"Old barns are a reminder of when I was young,
       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
                          Rooster

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