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Grease??

Started by Magicman, September 11, 2010, 10:47:50 PM

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Magicman

I usually just buy whatever is convenient, but surely some is better than others.  I do know that the Wal Wart Super Tech molly is very thin.  The NAPA seems to be heavier bodied and sticks better.

So what is the best grease?


Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

deutz4

A simple rule of thumb. The more you expect someone else to grease your machinery the more you should pay for the grease. Rest assured, the average employee will not overgrease.

Banjo picker

I keep 2 cases of litheom from tractor supply at the mill when one runs out I get another..on sale its about a dollar a tube...I grease the rollers when I quit evey day and every thing else if I cleaned the mill up good enough....The rollers takes about 10 or 12 pumps each  its just to keep the bearings from rusting  so no need to use expensive stuff. imo....If I need to do dif. some body please let me know....Tim
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

LeeB

An EP2 grade grease will do for anything you ned to grease on your mill. Doesn't really matter who sells it as long as it's EP2.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

SwampDonkey

Not owning a mill I have to comment on greasing my brush saw. ;D The angle gear on the end of the saw comes sealed and now with a special star shape stamped with a nipple in the middle and recessed inside a housing so a wrench can not be used, on the grease port. This is not a grease nipple, it keeps you from putting your star screw driver in there that comes with the saw to add more grease. Need a special screw driver at the dealer. But, when I replace mine I tell them to take that bolt out and I put the old kind in so I can at least get my screw driver on it. And it ain't easy to do after being heated up for days when brushing. When you get one of these saws or a new gear you are not suppose to touch it with new grease for 6 months (a whole season). Some fellas where adding too much grease and blowing the seals. The older ones had a way to put a wrench on and a star screw driver slot without that nipple.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

John Mc

Moly does add a lot of lubricity to a grease. I've also heard that it is easier to wash out. At least that's what we found at work on some of our bearings in machines that needed a flow of coolant (water soluable oil) on/near them. We ended up going with a very water resistant Lithium-complex grease.

Since seeing that, I only use moly greases in protected, dry areas. I use something more water resistant on my tractor and other outdoor equipment.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

customdave

Magicman, I'm no expert on grease, but I use Shell SRS 2000 water resistant semi-synthetic grease on everything I own. Why? , because I played with different grease types 30yrs ago & liked this one the best plus it's a pretty red ;D. It worked the best on my bachoe pins & gravel truck box tipping hinges the best, seems to do a good job on loaders too,stays onfor a good length of time, I probably have been using this grease for 25yrs now. I will tell you what it says on the tube, ( I just happen to have a tube in the house no woman ya know ;).
srs2000 will prvide excellent service for heavy duty trucks, buses, construction, logging & forestry equipment, carwashes & marine applications.
long lasting protection for pins, bushings 5th wheels, excectional resistance to water washout, outstanding mechanical stability, corrosion protection, excellent adhesion.
I use this grease on everything from lawn tractors to big tractors to sawmill, it does have a good resistence to water from my experience, plus it comes in 2 weights summer & winter. Costs a little more but I'm sure I use less as well, anyways just my 2cents worth

                                     Dave
Love the smell of sawdust

Bobus2003

I have always used what ever..., Since its my machines i know that its getting greased.. Now the Construction company i went to work for is completely differnt, He gets a really expensive and sticky grease, cause its not a given that the machines will get the attention they deserve everyday.. But my motto is "Treat their equipment as if it is my own"..

Randy88

Bobus you think like me as well, take care of it like its your own, but I'm telling you most don't, had one guy tell me once his motto was, drive it like you stole it and the company stuffs great, they're always serviced and greased and ready to go 24/7, you don't even kick the tires just light the fires.   Never qute forgot that one.   I have always used the lithium grease and some synthetics but after reading some of the posts here and on another site I'm going for the moly stuff and try that.    I always felt that something was a lot better than nothing and told my crew if it broke and they didn't get greasy taking it apart then maybe it needed a little more grease in the first place and to do a better job greasing next time around.   

Autocar

I use Castrol Pyroplex Red, if anything I probably over grease my equipment.
Bill

simplicityguy92

redtac grease and metalon   work good

mad murdock

If you really want to get into the nuts and bolts of greases, look at the tech specs on the different mfg's websites.  There will be characteristics that are measured like Timken load, Dropping point, flame point etc. etc.  a good NLGi EP 2 grease should have a timken load of at least 65.  most good EP greases are semi-synthetic, and have good characteristics of pushing out moisture, the #1 killer of bearings, next to lack of grease.  If you can keep grease on a bearing and keep moisture out, a properly installed bearing will last a very long time.  Grease is the cheapest thing one can do to extend the life of any piece of equipment.  Grease with good grease and grease often. On equipment, a better grease job is obtained after the equipment is warmed up.  I grease my skidder, after I have used it for a few turns and things are all warm, and then I purge grease every fitting-- grease until new grease comes out the part being greased.  Then comes one of the most important parts, wipe off the excess grease.  Sometimes this is not a practical method, but it is one that if it is practical to be used, will ensure new grease being put into the area and any moisture being purged out by the new grease at the same time.  There may be some areas that are not recommended to purge grease.  The best way to know is read the service manual for the equipment you are dealing with.  Some areas that require grease have a relief fitting opposite the grease fitting, and if not paid attention to, as to their ability to properly vent, you can blow out a seal with grease by over greasing.  The manual is the best source to determine if and where those areas are on your machine.  As far as NLGi EP greases go, they are really good, Chevron, Shell, and many others make them, If I were allowed to I would opt for these greases in lieu for the MIL spec grease that we are mandated to use on the helicopters that we maintain, as often goes in aviation, the certification process lags far behind the technology curve, and we are stuck using stuff that is not as up to speed as the latest and greatest.  Maybe that is a good thing, as it allows for other industries to find most of the service difficulties on ground based equipment, thus avoiding air accidents, which as we all know don't always end up so pretty.  Sorry for the long winded post.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

submarinesailor

Magicman,

This is the best stuff I can find.  And, no not because I'm a dealer.  I have performed a lot of greasing before and after I retired from the Navy and I have used a lot of different type from different companies.  This is the best stuff around.

Bruce

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/glc.aspx

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

dmartin

Lucas Red N Tacky #2 works well for me. Tractor Supply sells it.

SwampDonkey

Many saw shops carry Amsoil  products, not sure about grease.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

submarinesailor


mad murdock

The tech specs on the amsoil ep2 are good.  At 7.10 a tube the price is pretty reasonable as well.  I would recommend that grease as well.  Amsoil has a long history of producing good products.  The Lucas red n tacky #2 is comparable to the amsoil, some specs are slightly better on the one than on the other.  Not knowing the cost of the Lucas grease, I can say that having used Lucas products as well, they are equally recommendable.  I don't think one would regret using either of these greases.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Banjo picker

Seems it might be a good idea to keep two guns around one with the $7.10 grease and another with the cheep stuff .Tim
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Magicman

I've got to buy another 12 pack tomorrow AM.  I'll look around and see what is available.  I've pretty well been relying on the NAPA stuff because it is convenient.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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