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1967 Chevy C20 ( no spark

Started by tyb525, July 20, 2010, 01:57:38 AM

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tyb525

Hi all, I've been working on this truck recently. It was running good two or three years ago, when it was then parked and essentially forgotten due to my parents divorce. My dad used it to haul firewood often.

Anyways, I've put new plugs, wires, and battery in it. Engine cranks over fine, but there is no spark. I don't know about it getting fuel yet, because spark is my first priority. Ether does nothing of course. I took the dist cap off, looked inside everything seems to be okay, no rust really, the points look ok. From this point I'm not sure what to look for. Bad coil? What else should I check?



LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

ErikC

 Try condenser, and coil both, in that order. It would be a good idea to polish and set the points if it sat that long first though. I had a 68 k10 for many years, it was a good solid truck.
Peterson 8" with 33' tracks, JCB 1550 4x4 loader backhoe, several stihl chainsaws

Coon

Check if the fuseable links just before the starter are still good.  I have had this same problem in the past.  ;)
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

easymoney

 replace the points. they corrode and do not get good contact from sitting not being driven. i have had that happen many times especially with small engines like lawn mowers and such.

Corley5

Cap, rotor, points and a condensor.  It's probably the condensor but she'll run like new with all new parts  :)
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

sandhills

I have a 68 5500 straight truck, had to change engines so I put a HEI distributor in it, never looked back. Depending on availability of good used parts in your area it probably won't cost anymore to do that then replacing everything else, and its pretty simple to do.

LarryRB

Have you tried running an wire to the coil from the battery?

tyb525

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try them out! I looked up the parts (coil, condenser, cap, rotor, points), from NAPA, the price isn't too bad,  under $200, plus since I work part-time at a mechanics shop I can get the parts at-cost, which is about 30% less then what you pay if you walk in and buy at the store. So I might end up doing that, if I can't find what the problem is pretty quick. I don't mind putting a little money into it, it's a 3/4 ton long bed with practically new heavy-duty truck tires, and steel sides on the bed to allow you to pile firewood up to and higher than the cab. It sounds good too, new exhaust was put on recently. It's got the 283 in it.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Coon

IMO the 283 was one of the best engines that was ever built.  I have a 283 w/327 heads on it waiting to be transplanted into something....
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

Warbird

Check that you have spark in the wire from the coil to the distributor cap.  It could be as simple as a bad wire at that point.

Captain

Simple check at the coil + and - with a grounded test light (lamp style)  will tell you if the coil is getting triggered by the points.  Should be power on both when the engine is not being cranked.  The - side should have intermitent power when being cranked.  If yes, check the coil wire next, put a spark plug on it and ground the plug if you're not adventurous and want to test it with a screwdriver close to ground.  Good spark out of the coil and wire, check for a shorted rotor, they used to burn holes inside and short on the distributor shaft.

Captain

shinnlinger

I'm with Sandhills.  If you are going put $200 in it, put in an electronic ignition.  Aftermarket units or even a used unit from a more recent small block would be good.
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

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