Pine for siding

[bugdust]

I'm in the process of sawing a couple different pine species for lap siding and was wondering which you guys consider the best. In a topic last week I mentioned I had been given several white pine logs and was questioning what was the best method to saw. I'm now thinking lap siding. One customer has requested hemlock while another didn't specify. Since I need a couple thousand feet myself I thought I would saw the same for the second customer. Another question is, how do you dry 1/2" X 7", or is it necessay to dry before installing? My theory is saw and install green, dry, and then lay the strain to it. The logs are stacked off the ground with the ends painted. The bugs are probably licking their lips about now.

[robnrob2]

Well I wouldnt mix spiecies of pine, I think you would have a difference in drying time, appearance, and maybe some other factors, Keep it all the same per building if at all possible. I have milled up a lot of yellow pine for lap siding, cut at 7" with 6" exposed,and 3/4" thickness, and it was done with out a taper. It was nailed up green, at the top only, and then in a couple weeks or so when drying had been well under way, we went back and nailed just here and there where needed at the botom of some boards.  We have done the same lap siding cut at 1/2" no taper, and found a few problems with half inch that didnt happen with 3/4" like a bit more splitting, especially near the ends of the boards, and in other areas too, and it took more nails because of it being thinner.
    If you want an air tight building, be sure and use some sort of panel board or the like on the walls behind the lap.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

overhere ive used Gos Pine on about 15 buildings over the years just milled it and nailed it strait on without any dramas at all i face nail just above the top of the board underneath i used 3/4 4/4 buy 6-7&8 inches wide and also natural edge weather boards aswell with a 1" cover Mate

Regards Chris

[carykong]

I sided my home with yellow pine,3/4" thick,7" inches wide,no taper,green,with about a 6" reveal. Nailed top of the board under the overlap and nailed the bottom edge,too.  I did prime the boards before installation. Lost some paint that way but saved a lot of labor.  Very good results. If I do it again,I will be more selective with boards that have fewer knots. The larger knots will bleed thru even with rigorous priming.

[Chuck White]

When I bought my house, it was covered with ½ inch Adirondack Siding.
It looked fine on the East and North sides, but on the South and West sides it was really cupping bad.
I ended up tearing it all off and putting on T-111 siding.
If I would have had my mill at that time, I would have probably replaced the ½ inch siding with ¾ inch.
The old siding was really wide too, so I think it would have been a little different had it been limited to... say 8 inches.

[AtlanticAcres]

We used 3/4" / 1/8" x 6" band sawed pine siding on our home (and two out buildings) close to 20 years ago. It has 4.5" weather exposure. The key to not warping and it is extra work, is to paint the back side of the clapboard. We used the cheapest acrylic paint we could find. When the house was complete we stained it with solid opaque stain. The outbuildings get a sprayed on oil based sealer every 5-7 years.

The siding was kiln dried.

AA

[Ohio_Bill]

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