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Husqvarna 455 Rancher and Granberg Small Log Alaskan Mill?

Started by OlJarhead, June 22, 2010, 10:02:16 PM

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OlJarhead

Used it for siding an old shed :)  But thanks!

I'll post some more pics today.  All in all I'm so darn stoked I can't stand it!  If I had a file with me I'd have done more then the 10 boards I milled but sadly I'd not thought to check.

Next time!
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OlJarhead


First pass.

I cut too deeply into the log with this pass and at one point realized I wasn't keeping the saw on the rails all the way (lifted one end) perhaps because it's a small log.  Anyway, got the pass done and opted to leave it.

On a side note it was mentioned not to tighten a chain hot -- I forgot that and tightened my chains (I had two so I could switch after 3 or 4 passes instead of having to sharpen right away) when the chain was cool enough to handle.  Hopefully that wasn't too soon!



2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead


I milled 10 pieces this time and plan to get serious on the next visit (it's over 4 hours drive from home to the cabin).

The Husky was awesome though!  WOW!  I didn't get tired like I have with older and smaller saws and it just kept on cutting away.  Seems to have the power to cut logs up to 12/14" without an issue using the mill so next trip we'll see if it can handle a log that's 20" at the base??  I think that will be pushing it but am hopeful that if I take it slow and let it cool down between passes it might be ok.  After all, once the cant is milled it ought to be down to less then 18" across I'm thinking.
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OlJarhead

Here is a question for you:  How do you prevent 'dropping' or 'lifting' at the end of the cut?

What I mean is that each of my boards showed signs that the mill was either being raised or dropped before finishing the cut.  The last few inches always was bent one way or the other no matter how hard I tried to keep it straight and level.

In fact, I cut everything 8'6" so I'd be able to cut the end off!
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terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: OlJarhead on July 07, 2010, 11:15:09 AM
Here is a question for you:  How do you prevent 'dropping' or 'lifting' at the end of the cut?

Is your guide board long enough so the saw finishes the cut before one side of the mill comes off the board?
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

OlJarhead

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on July 07, 2010, 03:26:04 PM
Quote from: OlJarhead on July 07, 2010, 11:15:09 AM
Here is a question for you:  How do you prevent 'dropping' or 'lifting' at the end of the cut?

Is your guide board long enough so the saw finishes the cut before one side of the mill comes off the board?

On the first cut yes, but then it's removed and the recently cut surface provides the next guide...
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Sprucegum

I built a guide out of angle iron to extend beyond the end of the log - and I waxed it  ;D





I put a short screw in each end to hold it in place. By the time I had that done after each cut the saw was cool enough to go again.

OlJarhead

Quote from: Sprucegum on July 07, 2010, 05:43:53 PM
I built a guide out of angle iron to extend beyond the end of the log - and I waxed it  ;D





I put a short screw in each end to hold it in place. By the time I had that done after each cut the saw was cool enough to go again.

So you use it for every board?
Thanks
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Sprucegum

Yep; it gives every board an equal chance to come out straight  ;) no mistakes are carried over by riding in a rough surface.

OlJarhead

Quote from: Sprucegum on July 07, 2010, 06:38:46 PM
Yep; it gives every board an equal chance to come out straight  ;) no mistakes are carried over by riding in a rough surface.

Interesting.  So do you screw the rails into the end of the log and on top of the cut?  Or just on top once you have a flat surface to work off of? 

This seems like a great idea to prevent the issue I was having.
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OlJarhead

Quote from: Sprucegum on June 23, 2010, 02:05:58 PM
In a softwood like pine you can make a cut 8' long in less than 5 minutes. You will spend an equal amount of time turning the log and getting set for the second and third side. I usually let the saw idle between cuts so it can cool itself down a bit.

This seems to be about right though I forgot you posted it :)  My son said it didn't take 5 minutes but we never timed it.

You mentioned letting the saw idle down while turning the log etc...if it bad to let it idle for a couple minutes and then shut it off?

I found that it was easiest to give the saw a break after the first two cuts while we rotated the log and set up for the 3rd cut.  Then I cut the 3rd and let it idle for a few minutes before cutting 1x's.  I did about 8 cuts though before changing chains and didn't seem to notice any difference in sharpness (just chained out of principle.

Then when back at the cabin I thought I had the wrong file (7/32) for my ripping chains...only to discover today, back at home and 4 hours away from my logs that I had the right FILE...grrrr...I could have milled lumber for two more days...ahh well.
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OlJarhead

Quote from: Sprucegum on July 07, 2010, 05:43:53 PM
I built a guide out of angle iron to extend beyond the end of the log - and I waxed it  ;D





I put a short screw in each end to hold it in place. By the time I had that done after each cut the saw was cool enough to go again.

I'm going to ask my neighbor to build one of these.  I'm thinking 8" wide by 9 feet long with the base angle iron mounted the way you have it and holes ever inch then the top angle mounted flat like yours but here is a question:  Do you also have a moveable end piece to locate the end on your cant evenly and level?

I'd love to see more pics of this.
Thanks
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Sprucegum






I was cutting the logs where they fell and carrying the lumber out so I kept it simple and easy to carry - no moveable parts. Use short screws in each end so the sawblade won't hit them. The tiny hole left in the board by the screw was never noticeable later. It really doesn't take much to hold the guide in place.

OlJarhead

Thanks...now for another question....sorry for the constant questions!

If I cut a 1x10 or 1x12 would it be unwise to rip it down on the table saw to 1x5 or 1x6?  Will it make a difference drying?

Thanks
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Sprucegum

In my experience table saws don't like wet wood  :-\ 
If you can dry it first it will rip easier and you will get a more accurate final dimension. A 12" wide board can loose almost 1/2 inch if it starts out fresh/wet/green.

OlJarhead

Hmm....thanks.  I'd just read somewhere that 12" was wide enough to cause problems when drying.

Most of what I will cut next trip will be mostly dry (mostly) since it's been laying as a log a long time -- though I did discover last week that isn't the case always.

Here's a though:  Would it be better to  make 6x6's and then mill those to 1x's later?  I think someone suggested that might work too?
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Sprucegum

Depends...  :)   1 bys will dry faster than 6x6

If they are stacked with stickers and adequate weight they will dry straight  or so I have heard.

OlJarhead

Thanks -- so leave em wide and let them dry.

I leave Wednesday to head back and plan to sharpen both chains before leaving.  That will give me a couple CANTs before having to take a break and do some more sharpening.

I've got to get the Chimney installed mind you, and side the cabin ad well as finish the roofing so I'll be busy -- planning a full week though so with luck will mill the 6 or 7 logs I have ready. :)
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tyb525

Have you considered buying a couple chainsaw files and sharpening your chains by hand?
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

OlJarhead

Quote from: tyb525 on July 20, 2010, 01:59:34 AM
Have you considered buying a couple chainsaw files and sharpening your chains by hand?

Ahh...ya, of course.  Maybe I didn't post my plan clearly sorry -- I brought my saw and chains home to sharpen myself so they were ready when I returned for a couple cants before I'd have to do it myself.
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OlJarhead

It's been a while!  Over 4 months.  So I thought I'd report in and ask a new question or two :)

First, some of you know (I'm sure) that I was asking about a bandsaw mill.  The reason is that I just haven't had the time I'd expected to get back to the cabin and do any milling and I'm afraid that I won't get the lumber I need milled before the summer without one.  However, recent events have given me a chance to see if I can make it without the bandsaw (though I plan on getting one anyway) for now.

First, my son and nephew installed my winch back on the Jeep which will allow us to drag logs up from the lower portion of our property to a landing to mill them on.  This will help as the weather is quite cold with 6-8" of snow on the ground making it tough to get in to where the logs are with anything I could haul lumber out with -- so we now can haul the logs up onto a landing near the cabin :)

Secondly with all the logs in one place, a new cant hook and some stands I'm better prepared to get the logs into the mill to cut.  I'm also looking at having a rail made to ensure straighter cuts etc with the saw moving forward.  I'm hoping I can mill 3-5 cants a day and will have two days to do so at the end of the month...guess we'll find out!

My plan is to haul the logs onto the landing next weekend and then mill them the following :)  I've got over 20 logs now (8'3" lengths previously cut) for milling so should be able to make a fair amount of lumber I hope.

Now the question:  I'm making interior paneling for the cabin and originally though I'd mill 1x's but the more I think about it the more I think 3/4" might be better.  After all, with drying and planing these would be closer to 1/2-5/8" which is desireable for interior paneling and trim I think.  So, will 3/4" milled lumber be a problem drying?  Will it shrink below 5/8" when drying?  Should I stick with 1" because of shrinkage and planing etc?

Thanks again for all of your help!  I'll upload a new pic or two for ya :D
Cheers
Erik
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OlJarhead


Here is the cabin this month :)


We've stuffed insulation in it to keep warm this time of year but will have to finish the wiring before making it permanent.  I'd like to have the lumber waiting to finish the interior this spring so better get to milling!
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OlJarhead

Making Sawdust!

My step son running the Alaskan -- I had to constantly remind him to keep the chaps between him and the chain...he wanted to kneel when cutting which is easier on the back but I fear a little risky.


We made a ton of sawdust this weekend :)  But only 22 3x4" x 9" x 8' boards :)


But the stuff is flat out GORGEOUS!
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OlJarhead

2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

tyb525

LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

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