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Husqvarna 455 Rancher and Granberg Small Log Alaskan Mill?

Started by OlJarhead, June 22, 2010, 10:02:16 PM

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OlJarhead

I hope I'm not repeating a question -- if I am I apologize in advance.

I've nearly warn out a 16" Craftsman saw I've been using for camp firewood and cutting firewood for our new cabin.  It's about 5 years old and still runs well but definitely showing wear.  So, I went out and bought a Husqvarna 455 Rancher to give me a much better saw for falling trees in the 14-18" width range (at base) and bucking them up.

I then got the milling bug and bought the Granberg Small Log Alaskan saw mill.  I'd seen that some had used them pretty small saws and was hopeful the Husky would be ok for smaller milling jobs (say 10-14 inch logs) but then was told the 56cc motor on it isn't enough to use in a mill.

I bought the Husky because the Poulan Pro I looked at looked too cheap and while the Husky was $400 vs $200 for the PP I felt it was probably well worth the difference.

I'd like to know your thoughts on doing small runs (one log or two) of milling with this saw on the above mentioned logs.

Also, I have some bigger stuff -- about 18" at base -- that I might like to try which is very dry and old.

As a side bar I'll toss in a little about my saw use and experience:  When I lived in BC I worked in a pulp mill (Western Pulp Port Alice) and worked as a Wood Plant Deckman for a while.  In that position I often had to lug much bigger saws into the bark refuse system to cut out logs which had been jammed /dropped into the refuse chain.  These saws were typically Stihl's if my memory serves me right (though maybe something else) and usually had 36" or larger bars.

I'm not a faller mind you but am pretty 'ok' with a saw.  I'm also no carver!

Anyway, I can't afford a big Husky or Stihl and am hopeful I can make some decent 1x6 stock for cabin trim/paneling and maybe some rough cut siding for sheds etc as well as some bigger stock (4x4 and 6x6) for wood sheds and decks etc.

I'd like your thoughts and appreciate all the feedback!
Thanks!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

r.man

Jarhead, the answer will be another question. Can you stand to wait while the too small saw does it's job? Power equates to speed and if you try to force the saw to go faster than its power will handle you will have problems. If you are patient and allow it to go at its own pace then it should do the job for you. You might try finding a large used saw to run your mill, remember a mill saw doesn't need a brake and weight isn't a big factor so one of the old heavy brutes that no-one wants to carry around anymore  would do you and should be cheap. It would also be a dedicated saw that didn't have to be removed for felling and bucking. Good luck on your cabin, sounds interesting. We like pictures here as well.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Sprucegum

Welcome to the FF  8)

And yes that saw will work - slow and steady - don't force it.

I started with a Husky 359, 59 cc compared to your 56, did OK.
Buy a ripping chain and keep it sharp.
Make sure your gas is mixed properly with a good oil - your saw will deserve it.
Make a set of bunks or stands to get your log off the ground; easier on your back and better air flow for the saw.




BTW I have been following your cabin build from the start  8)  8)  8)

OlJarhead

Quote from: r.man on June 22, 2010, 10:38:08 PM
Jarhead, the answer will be another question. Can you stand to wait while the too small saw does it's job? Power equates to speed and if you try to force the saw to go faster than its power will handle you will have problems. If you are patient and allow it to go at its own pace then it should do the job for you. You might try finding a large used saw to run your mill, remember a mill saw doesn't need a brake and weight isn't a big factor so one of the old heavy brutes that no-one wants to carry around anymore  would do you and should be cheap. It would also be a dedicated saw that didn't have to be removed for felling and bucking. Good luck on your cabin, sounds interesting. We like pictures here as well.

Thanks for the reply.  I'll try to upload a pic or two of the cabin.  I was sent here from the Countryplans forum where there are lots of pics and a dedicated thread.  But I'll toss some in here too.

I'm patient enough to allow the saw to do the work -- heck, I've had the patience to use the Craftsman 16" saw to buck up some big logs (for it) and don't mind the effort if it will pay off in usable lumber! :D
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

Quote from: r.man on June 22, 2010, 10:38:08 PM
You might try finding a large used saw to run your mill, remember a mill saw doesn't need a brake and weight isn't a big factor so one of the old heavy brutes that no-one wants to carry around anymore  would do you and should be cheap. It would also be a dedicated saw that didn't have to be removed for felling and bucking.

I saw a BIG Stihl on Craigslist and was wondering if it would be worth the effort.  Perhaps I'll check there again -- besides, I can't have too many tools!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

Quote from: Sprucegum on June 22, 2010, 10:41:27 PM
Welcome to the FF  8)

And yes that saw will work - slow and steady - don't force it.

I started with a Husky 359, 59 cc compared to your 56, did OK.
Buy a ripping chain and keep it sharp.
Make sure your gas is mixed properly with a good oil - your saw will deserve it.
Make a set of bunks or stands to get your log off the ground; easier on your back and better air flow for the saw.




BTW I have been following your cabin build from the start  8)  8)  8)

Thanks for the reply -- I was wondering about making some kind of stand like that.  Though picking up an 8+ foot log I want to mill and putting it into stands might be tough.  We're pretty remote and it's mostly just two of us with no come-alongs etc.

What about using two rounds with a stabilizing notch cut into them -- like a cradle notch?
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

Here is a pic of our cabin.  I've been building it for the last 10 months and am about ready to get back and do some more work.  I need to finish off the chimney and roof and then the siding and window casings as well as some foundation re-enforcement work.


The North side (which is mostly in the shade up here) showing the siding -- T1-11 unfinished which will get a treatment of batting boards and then stain -- as well as the composting toilet system -- still need to complete the temporary housing for it.


My plan is to put a covered deck all the way around it and if I can cut some 1x6 pine I'll use it to do the interior and perhaps some 2x6 for the decking.

I also thought that if I could cut some 4x4's and 6x6's and treat them I could use them for framing some of the deck/porch also -- though I'll want to use PT stuff for the foundation of course.
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

tyb525

I've used it for milling. It gets the job done, slowly.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Sprucegum

One leg of my stand reaches way out and works as a ramp to roll the log up. With a light strap I parbuckled (check out our new dictionary  ;) ) a 10" by 10' log myself.

OlJarhead

Quote from: Sprucegum on June 23, 2010, 09:35:07 AM
One leg of my stand reaches way out and works as a ramp to roll the log up. With a light strap I parbuckled (check out our new dictionary  ;) ) a 10" by 10' log myself.

I see that now.  Looks like 2x2's to make the cradle and base and a very long 2x2 ramp?  Is that right?  Looks bolted together also (probably best)....I can make a couple of those and take to my trees on the ATV I'm thinking.

Here is a question for those who've used the 455 to mill:  roughly, how long would you say it takes to cant a log on 3 sides -- saw a log that's 14" with bark and 8-10' long?

How long, roughly, to make a pass (I assume it's the same amount of time to make a pass cutting 1" deep as well as cutting 10" deep).

Thanks!

Now I'm off to Bailey's to look for more tools I'll need :D
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

Well Bailey's got another $250 of my hard earn dollars today :)

I decided to order some wedges, tape and pouch (man newbies are crazy huh?) as well as a new chain for my new saw (Oregon LP) and the Logman Tenon Cutter and bits -- I plan to make railings in the loft from pines around the property (already cut and delimbed and waiting to be debarked and tennon cut).

Life is good! 
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Sprucegum

In a softwood like pine you can make a cut 8' long in less than 5 minutes. You will spend an equal amount of time turning the log and getting set for the second and third side. I usually let the saw idle between cuts so it can cool itself down a bit.

OlJarhead

Quote from: Sprucegum on June 23, 2010, 02:05:58 PM
In a softwood like pine you can make a cut 8' long in less than 5 minutes. You will spend an equal amount of time turning the log and getting set for the second and third side. I usually let the saw idle between cuts so it can cool itself down a bit.

With a chainsaw?  Wow!  That's not bad at all.

Even assuming the 455 takes longer that what you did yours with it sounds like a cant can be cut in about 30 minutes.  Afterward since you don't have to rotate the cant I assume giving 5 minutes of cool down time you're talking 10 minutes per 1x?

This would suggest that with an 8' log about 14" in diameter you could make the cant losing what?  4" in diameter?  in about 30 minutes then begin the milling and cut the remaining 10" into 8 or 9 1x's in about 60-90 minutes?

If this is the case then I would think that someone who's not in a hurry could do maybe two logs in a day -- a 4 hour day or so -- as long as he has a couple chains and allows time to sharpen and or replace chains?
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Sprucegum

Yep; its just that easy  :)

Your saw cuts a 3/8 inch kerf so you won't get as many one-by's as you anticipate  :-\

The 5 minute cool down is just as important to the operator as it is to the saw - in my case anyway.

simplicityguy92

my electric mill i am working on with a 1/2 hp motor cuts at about 30 seconds a foot in larch with ripping chain so that saw of yours should work all right

OlJarhead

2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

The waiting game sucks....I'm like a kid in a candy shop...ok a 44 year old kid (in fact, soon 45 even) and the candy shop is the mill shop and the counter clerk is the UPS man but hey, it works.

Anyway, I need to order a few more things....the moisture meter looks like it can wait for now, but I think the Granberg sharpening setup might be a good idea since I'm a sharpening novice (in the mill someone else did all the saw maintenance and chain work, I just cut logs out of the system or on the deck).

My wife is pretty stoked too though so it's all good :)

Now, when exactly will those things arrive!  AHHHH
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

Got the mill and chains yesterday and will assemble today and make sure everything is there and I understand it.

Since the saw is new I took the chain and bar off and put a ripping chain on (made sure I ordered it right that way) and off again and back to the original.  This way I won't be doing it blind in the woods -- which was good because the husky requires the brake to be released before it will allow removal of the bar/chain guard -- which perhaps is the same on my craftsman but I wouldn't know it because the break is always released ;)

I like to dry run things at home so that when I get in the woods I'm not dropping screws and cussing and swearing and trying to figure something out -- but instead doing what I went there for in the first place.
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

tyb525

Ol' Jarhead, that small log mill was the very first mill I bought. I used it on a stihl 036 and a husky rancher 455 like you are. I cut up several logs-white oak, hard maple, and elm. It's not fast, but it works :). Make sure you keep your chain sharp, your oil tank full, your gas mixed properly and your saw tuned correctly (not lean), let it idle after a cut, and make sure you drink plenty of water :)
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

OlJarhead

Quote from: tyb525 on June 26, 2010, 03:34:05 PM
Ol' Jarhead, that small log mill was the very first mill I bought. I used it on a stihl 036 and a husky rancher 455 like you are. I cut up several logs-white oak, hard maple, and elm. It's not fast, but it works :). Make sure you keep your chain sharp, your oil tank full, your gas mixed properly and your saw tuned correctly (not lean), let it idle after a cut, and make sure you drink plenty of water :)

Thanks!  I'm going to be cutting Ponderosa Pine probably 90% of the time (or more) and maybe some Tamerack.  So I'm hoping the softer wood will like this set up even more :)

I can't wait!  Problem is, I have to wait.  My son graduates HS next week (up in BC) so we'll head up there for a few days, then when we get back I'll be taking off July 4th weekend/week for 4 or 5 days, then plan on being back mid month for a week...should get some milling done then I'm hoping :)

Going to get Grandbergs sharpening setup to help keep the chain sharp and maybe a few other things...but I've got two chains for it now (Ripping) and the little 16" saw will be used to buck the limbs off.

I'm also thinking a mini mill would be good too but I'll wait until I've used this one a bit.
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Kevin

New chains will stretch like crazy, don't tighten them when they are hot, let them cool or you could damage the seals,bar and chain.

OlJarhead

Quote from: Kevin on June 26, 2010, 04:51:58 PM
New chains will stretch like crazy, don't tighten them when they are hot, let them cool or you could damage the seals,bar and chain.

I didn't know that.  Thanks!

So here is a question:  I have read that you get about 3 passes per sharpening as a rule but I'm curious if milling a 16" pine 8' would be the same roughly?

My plan was to mill 3 or 4 cuts and then change the change.  Then mill 3 or 4 more cuts then sharpen both (break time) then repeat.

For tightening I just figured I'd tighten when it got loose.  Would it be best to wait until the ~5 minute cool down was over and I was getting ready to make another pass?
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OlJarhead



Got the mill assembled today.  Pretty straight forward.



And bolted it to the saw. Seems like it's probably hard on the chain sprocket and/or bar mount so I am guessing that it's best to carry it by holding both the saw and the mill frame?


Ready to go :)  Well not really, have to change the chain before using and of course gas up etc.

The mission is to go out and cut an 8' log to try it on (I have two old ones I may try it with first actually).  Then set them up on some kind of stand (might build one like that posted earlier) and give it a whirl.

Looks like I can cut 16" logs with this as the bar sticks out just over 17" from the start of the frame.  It mentions that you can remove the saw dogs to get a bit more length but I don't think the saw will do too well on anything much bigger then 16".
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead



The frist board :)  1x 5 1/2" Ponderosa Pine.

I learned a lot and can't wait to get back!  I'll post more tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help and encouragement!!!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Magicman

I would make a picture frame out of that board and frame something exciting, like you holding that board.    ;)

Congratulations !!!
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