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Bridge decking

Started by SamB, June 09, 2010, 08:48:22 PM

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SamB

Getting ready to start a timbering/sawing job for some bridge decking. The boards/planks will be sawn 3 inches thick, 12 feet long and random widths 6 to 10 inches. The decking will be placed over steel I beams and held down with metal clips fastened to the 3 inch edges with either screws or nails. The decking will be cut from a variety of oak, mostly white but some red, black and scarlet mixed in. Planning on sealing the ends of the logs when cut, giving the planks a coating of borax and air drying for 45 to 60 days before placing. Sometime after placing in the first year, applying some used oil/diesel mixture to top surface. I'm welcoming criticism and suggestions........Thanks......Sam

Jeff

the red oaks  would not  be a good choice. Poor in fact.
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SamB

OK , maybe I posted on the wrong board or came across like I had a plan that was set in concrete. Really looking for some free advice on whether what I'm proposing to do is a sound plan or not. Possibly someone who has sawn/sold bridge decking for public works projects could share what the specifications were. My biggest concern is the amount of drying time required before placing, I'm sure there will be some movement even if kiln dried. The dimensions are inline with what's being replaced.
Quote from: Jeff on June 09, 2010, 09:01:41 PM
the red oaks  would not  be a good choice. Poor in fact.

Could you further explain why red oak would be a poor choice?
I'm guessing if red oak would be poor then black and scarlet would be also. Maybe I'll have enough white oak to stay away from the others.

Den Socling

Jeff is absolutely correct about red oak. Also, black and scarlet are red.  ??? The problem with red oak can best be seen under a microscope. Wood has vessels and they are open in red oak and blocked closed in white oak. The red oak will soak up water and rot while the white oak will last a long time. And 3" thick white oak will do just about zero drying in air for 60 days. It won't dry for the same reason it won't rot. Water can't get in or out.

red oaks lumber

i agree with jeff and den, use white oak and install them right off the saw when they are drying you already have them fastened so movement will be minimal
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

Samuel

Not sure about red oak, but the used oil/diesel mixture around a stream does not seem to me to be the best environmental option to me.
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Magicman

I only use White Oak and Black Locust for bridge decking.  They will stay with you for many years.  I use 3 runners under the bridges and space the decking at least 2" apart.  That reduces the "lift" when the water rises above the bridge and also reduces drift buildup.

I use new Class 2 or 3 power poles for runners and dig them in so that the decking is level with the creek banks.
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LOGDOG

SamB,

   Are you building this bridge for yourself or just milling the lumber for someone who's building a bridge? The guys are right, red oak won't serve you well. It rots outdoors like a son of a gun. Can you tell us more about the span and width of your bridge as well as the rest of your site? Maybe some info about the water that's under it? Samuel made a good point about the oil/diesel mixture around the water. EPA is really getting touchy on that stuff. The amount of money saved isn't nearly worth the fines if it goes sideways on you. 

Buck

Decked one with three inch white oak then runners out of two inch white oak atop a steel frame. Going on five years of use with fully loaded tractor trailers. Way to go.
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SamB

Thanks for all the responses and sound advice, now for the rest of the story. This is a public bridge with a lot of deteriorated decking boards, most if not all the bad boards are probably of the red oak species. The authority having control of the bridge does not have money in their budget to do a complete replacement of the deck, they have agreed to furnish the labor if materials could be donated. It will require roughly 200 planks/boards as described in the original post. From my research of similar style bridges that have been rehabilitated it appears the preferred method of deck replacement is to use treated 2x4's on edge. My neighbor and I stand to benefit most by the bridge remaining open so we are offering to provide material to replace the entire deck. The used oil/diesel idea will be abandoned, although I can't believe, if done carefully, it would be anymore polluting than the chemicals leaching out of treated boards.

LOGDOG

Buck,

   You got any pictures of that bridge? What was the span and width on it? Any pilings in the center for support?

SamB,

   You're probably right about the oil/diesel not being any more toxic than the chemicals from some of the treated wood out there. Louisiana, which is the loosest state I've ever lived in for environmental regulations, changed the law on what is acceptable to use around the water as it relates to chemically treated wood products. I've got a 40' span bridge on my place that needs work and I've been down about every avenue of research making sure we do it right this time. The contractor I hired to build it the first time didn't know his butt from a hole in the ground.  ::)

   Do you have timber on your property that you'll be using to donate to the cause or will you and your neighbor be buying it to donate?

Buck

Nah, pictures are my weakness. Wish I had taken many over time.  It was a timber company bridge framed with pipe and railroad iron and then decked with wood and was only wide enough for a truck to pass with ease.  3" decking across. 2" runners the length of the bridge where the tires tracked.
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

SamB

Quote from: LOGDOG on June 11, 2010, 08:25:16 AM


SamB,


   Do you have timber on your property that you'll be using to donate to the cause or will you and your neighbor be buying it to donate?
Logdog, that's a big 10-4 on cutting our own trees for the decking. Offered to go with the treated 2x4's if it would be easier on the placers, but the man in charge wants 3 inch hardwood planks. Advised him the wood would be green and heavy, he says no problem. So as soon as I get caught up on the mowing I'll start thinning some timber.

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