Easier starter pull on Husky 51?

[John Mc]

I recently bought a used Husky 51 for a friend. It runs well, but she has a hard time starting it. She does not have a lot of arm strength, and basically has trouble pulling it through the compression (or at least pulling it through fast enough to get it started).

It was quite stiff the first time I started it, but seems fairly normal to me now. She can start my Jonsered 2152 without much trouble, even if she forgets to set the decomp valve.

Would adding a decompression valve make much of a difference on this saw? The engine already has a place on the casting, but it would need to be drilled and tapped.

Any other ideas for making it easier to pull?

A new saw with one of the "easy start" mechanisms is not in the cards for her.

John Mc

[Rocky_J]

If a person doesn't have the physical strength to start a chainsaw then they do not have the physical strength to resist or deflect kickback. Call me a jerk but I'm calling it like I see it. This person should find a more qualified person to cut the wood rather than risk serious injury.

Just like the little old people who drive the 3000 lb deadly weapon to the farmer's market even though they barely have the strength to press the brake pedal. And they certainly don't have the reaction time.

Running a chainsaw is a very physical activity requiring a certain amount of strength and dexterity. If you can't do it then put the saw down for your own sake.

[ladylake]

Make sure the starter rope is full length.   Steve

[Al_Smith]

Some times on a used saw the starters get stiff .Could be a number of things,frayed starter rope ,starter full of tiny wood fibers ,bushing worn out .Too small of a string will cause them to bind . Probabley a good investigation into the starter and repairs if neccessary would eliminate a lot of the problems .

Now if you are going to lubricate the starter use a dry silicon spray and not oil .Oil will attract little dust particles and cause worse problems .

[John Mc]

If a person doesn't have the physical strength to start a chainsaw then they do not have the physical strength to resist or deflect kickback.

Rocky - I appreciate what you are saying. However, as I mentioned, she can start my 2152, which is similar displacement, without much trouble. In her Game of Logging class, she started the instructors husky 359 and 357 XP with no trouble.

Yes, she does not have a lot of upper body strength. She does have good judgment and knows her limitations. IMO, that's as important as upper body strength. Probably more important: I'd rather cut with her than some of the buffoons I've seen using chainsaws. She'd never be able to keep up with someone working in a production setting, but fortunately for her, she doesn't have to.

[John Mc]

Steve -  starter rope is full length. She's just having trouble getting it past the compression. She'll usually get it past the first "bump", but stops on the second one. We've been working a bit on her starting technique (getting her shoulder and upper arm muscles into it, rather than just fore-arm). That helped a bit.

I do think the saw is a bit "stiff" for its size. It had sat for about a year before I got it (fortunately, it sat without a load of ethanol gas in the tank). First few times I started it, it was really stiff. It's loosened up a bit, I'm just hoping it gets a bit better.

Al - thanks for the tips. I'll take a look at the starter are and see what I find. Rope looks in good condition and appropriate size.

John Mc

[jteneyck]

Would a D-handle make it any easier?  I have a Husky 55 and there is a noticeable difference when I forget to push in the decompression valve.  Adding one to the 51 should make it much easier to start, unless the starter side is really hosed up. 

[JohnG28]

If you can disassemble the saw and put it back together then adding a decomp valve shouldnt be a big deal.  A shop can drill and tap the hole pretty easily, and probably wouldnt cost much.  Im sure adding one would make starting easier.  Other than that, maybe a new technique like you said.  Can she drop start?  Not that its considered the best method, but with the chain brake on its not too unsafe.

[Al_Smith]

Take that saw and run the snot out of it .If it's tight because it lounged on a shelf for years ,that will limber it up . Dang piston rings get carbon and gunk under them ,blow that puppy out .

[John Mc]

Makes sense, Al. I'll give it a shot. It did sit idle for a time. Then I ran it a bit after cleaning up the bar and putting on a new chain. Then it sat for a few months before she got time to get out and use it. We'll see what happens after a good solid run. Is it worth pulling the plug and spraying anything in the cylinder to help loosen things up? I've avoided that so far, since I was afraid I'd screw it up worse.

Two saw shops in the area have no interest in installing a decompression valve. I may have to try a machine shop if we do end up going that route.

John Mc

[Al_Smith]

You don't have to dump anything in it if it's already freed up .Just get down on it for half a day .

I recentley took an old Mac 700 that would barely turn over and made it run like new one .Stiff as a board at first then sure enough the old goat grew  new muscle . It's now earning it's keep as a back up for a tree service and does very well at it .

After a few weeks though a seal let go but didn't hurt anything .When I tore it to down to inspect it the parts showed no wear in spite of being almost froze in place .New seal,back on the job it went .

[bandmiller2]

John, be sure the sheve the starter cord is wrapped around is almost full that gives you more leverage pulling it over.Some saws are just little buggers to turn over,right or wrong I dropstart my saws.Frank C.

[John Mc]

Another good tip, Frank. Thanks.

I'm hoping to dig into it this evening to clean & examine the whole starter area. I may get a chance to run it for a couple of hours Friday AM.

John

[Al_Smith]

Some saws are just little buggers to turn over,right or wrong I dropstart my saws.Frank C.

Yep you can do that on a little 3 cuber with  a short bar .Not a good plan on a 100 plus with a long bar .

[northern]

I have a Husky 50 that is (comparitively) tough to pull over.  Tougher than my 262.  Some saws just are, I think.  Maybe start it on the ground, with your (her) foot on the handle, if your not already.  Just watch the bar!

[John Mc]

She's been starting it on the ground, with a foot in the handle. It's too stiff for her to start otherwise (she's not interested in attempting a drop start - it may work well for some, but she's not comfortable with that).

[JohnG28]

Can she start it holding the saw between her legs?  Might be able to get more leverage standing up?

[beenthere]

I recently bought a used Husky 51 for a friend. It runs well, but she has a hard time starting it. ...............
Any other ideas for making it easier to pull?

A new saw with one of the "easy start" mechanisms is not in the cards for her.
....

Not in the cards, but time to sell this one and buy her a different one. Or trade her for yours.  ;D

[SawTroll]

Can she start it holding the saw between her legs?  Might be able to get more leverage standing up?

That method needs to be described a bit better - the point is to lock the saw between the legs, with the rear handle behind the right leg, and the rest of the saw pointing left and slightly up.

It isn't too effective ime, and I discarded it several years ago - "drop starts" are the most effective, and also the safest, unless it is a large saw/long bar. I have the right hand on the handlebar, and the left on the rope - but others may differ....... ;D

Whatever else you do, put the chain brake on, unless you know the saw and how it reacts very well.


;)Yes, I know there are exceptions to the rule(s), but those are not relevant here.  

[Al_Smith]

 The safest way to start any saw is on the ground .

[JohnG28]

Yes, I probably could have described that better, I was just assuming that he understood the method I was talking about.  I agree that drop starting works best for me also, but thats not an option as previously mentioned here.

[John Mc]

I'm familiar with the "locking the saw between the legs" method. That's how I start my saws. (I guess there's a little less to worry about for a woman using this technique). She took a Game of Logging level 1 class a couple of years ago, and they taught her between the legs method and starting on the ground. At this point, she's most comfortable with ground starting.

She's only used a chainsaw a couple of times since her GOL course (borrowing my Jonsered 2152). She's asked me to come along to help refresh her memory. This time out was her first time with the "new to her" Husky 51. On my 2152, she's started it even when she forgets to set the decompression valve.

[SawTroll]

The safest way to start any saw is on the ground .

I disagree - you could fall over the saw, as it puts you in an unstable posture - but that is just an opinion!   

[John Mc]

When ground starting, you are supported at three points... foot in handle, left hand on bar, other foot on ground. Assuming you've got these three points in a triangle, rather than a straight line, that's a pretty stable configuration.

SawTroll, you sound as though you have a drop-start technique that works very well for you, given your physical condition, experience, and the fine points of your method. Most of the people I've seen doing a drop start make me cringe.

[SawTroll]

 :D :D  Opinions differ, if not there was no point in discussing anything!

But you are at least partly right, as the original reason I used the left hand on the rope was severe Arthritis in the right one. That is no longer the case  8) 8) 8), but I found that it really is the best way, anyway!

[Al_Smith]

The safest way to start any saw is on the ground .

I disagree - you could fall over the saw, as it puts you in an unstable posture - but that is just an opinion!   

--and I disagree with your disagreement ,so there . Fact is I have a 2100 Huskie I'd like to see anybody drop start .

[bandmiller2]

Al, are you saying you start all your saws on the ground or just the large ones.?Most all the professional saw users I've ever seen just give them a flip standing up.I have used ground start but my feet are too big to hold down the handle and it seems the saw twists out of its grasp.Frank C.

[SawTroll]

That's OK Al, no fun without different opinions. ;D

I wouldn't even attemp to dropstart a 2100, so at least we agree on something!    

[Al_Smith]

Al, are you saying you start all your saws on the ground or just the large ones.?Most all the professional saw users I've ever seen just give them a flip standing up.

Firstly I don't make a living with a chainsaw .That said usually just the big ones .However I have a couple that are contrary if they  sat a spell .Cold starts on those bull headed  things are on the ground .

My favorite ,the infamous Rocky special 038 Mag takes 8-10 pulls on a cold start but once started lights  off every time on one ,behind the knee . It just  needs to be shown who's boss some times . :D That thing has so much compression I had to use a D-handle to save my fingers .I might have over done that one just a tad bit .

[John Mc]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. Here's an update

Checked the starter mechanism. Everything is clean and moving freely.

I could maybe fit one more wrap of starter rope on the reel, but I'm wondering if I filled it that full, would it be more prone to falling of the side of the reel when rewinding?

I've run two tanks of gas through it, bucking 6" to 12" Maple and Beech.

Running it does seem to have loosened things up a little bit, but starting is still stiff for a saw this size. We'll try another couple of tanks of fuel through it. If that doesn't work, maybe try a D-handle and tell the owner she needs to lift some weights.

Last resort is adding a decompression valve - or just selling the saw (it does handle and cut nicely, though).

John Mc

[Al_Smith]

Find some stuff with some size to it  and flog the snot out of that little saw .It will either straighten up or blow up .Either way the problem will be gone .

I recently did some work on a 525 J-Red for a guy .Same basic size as the saw in question . It got tested on 20" oak . Show no mercy . :D

[quietrangr]

Some times on a used saw the starters get stiff .Could be a number of things,frayed starter rope ,starter full of tiny wood fibers ,bushing worn out .Too small of a string will cause them to bind . Probabley a good investigation into the starter and repairs if neccessary would eliminate a lot of the problems .

Now if you are going to lubricate the starter use a dry silicon spray and not oil .Oil will attract little dust particles and cause worse problems .

What he said, especially the center; it can get oblonged, and make for hard pulling.

[quietrangr]

SawTroll, you sound as though you have a drop-start technique that works very well for you

You mean there's another way to start a saw?

[boobap]

Grab starter handle...swing saw in circular motion  :D :D :D