iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Stihl 880 chainsaw

Started by harris, May 31, 2010, 03:53:29 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

harris

I have a Stihl 880, not many hours up, it is pulling the starter out of my hand as if she is firing at the wrong time, is there a cure for this ? the compression is really high.

Rocky_J

Always use the compression release button when starting it.

harris

I use the decompressor every time it still kicks back

jteneyck

I have the same issue with my 385XP.  I figured it was the nature of a big beast.  Then one day I took it to my local dealer to have the rpm checked and set.  The guy is maybe 150 lbs and he started it like it was a toy.  His technique was to hold the cord in his left hand with his right hand on the saw's top handle.  He pushed the saw away from himself with his right hand, using the weight of the saw to help, as much as he pulled with his left.  Maybe this is second nature to you pros, but I can't get the hang of it.  So it appears technique has something to do with it as well once the saw gets big enough to offer significant resistance.  You might want to give it a try.  As for me, I'm still trying.  But I look real good with my 35 cc saws. 

Rocky_J

That's how I start all my saws, except I hold the top handle with my left hand and rope with my right. It keeps the bar and chain further away from me as well as keeping my body out of the line of rotation. With the biggest saws I'll set the saw on the ground with my left hand on top of the top handle and my right toe stuck in the rear handle. With the big saws it's all about technique and not trying to show off like you're Mr. Cool.

The guys that scare me are the ones who hold the rear handle with their right hand  and a finger on the throttle while they throw the saw out into the air in front of them and pull the rope with their left hand. Then they have to either catch the front handle before the saw swings down into their leg or else hold the saw up by the rear handle to keep the bar tip off the ground while they have the throttle pegged. This describes the starting technique of 95% of central Florida tree guys.  :-\

Frickman

Jteneyck That's called drop starting. I've been doing it since I was a kid. I'm just a little fellow and have started 880's and 090's that way with no problem. I don't like to use a saw that big as there isn't a whole lot of me behind it, but I'll start them all day long with no problem.

Be sure not to reverse your hands on the saw, holding the rope with your right hand and the front handle with your left. When the saw starts there is a good chance of it swinging into your left leg. RockyJ, apparantly you're still holding the saw with the bar pointed to the right. If you let it drift over to the left you stand the chance of getting cut.

Ten years ago I got hurt but kept working through it and had to use one hand to start a saw. My right shoulder was all bruised up, so I held the starter rope in my left hand and hooked my left thumb around the front handle. I would drop the saw like a yo-yo and release the starter rope handle when the saw hit the ground. I started 044's on soft ground like this for a month or so until I healed. This is NOT an OSHA approved method, nor is drop starting. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do though.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

Rocky_J

Quote from: Frickman on May 31, 2010, 09:06:45 PM
...
Be sure not to reverse your hands on the saw, holding the rope with your right hand and the front handle with your left. When the saw starts there is a good chance of it swinging into your left leg. RockyJ, apparantly you're still holding the saw with the bar pointed to the right. If you let it drift over to the left you stand the chance of getting cut.
...
I never understood this claim although I've heard it for 20 years. When I start a saw, it is always with the bar parallel with my body and a firm grip on the front handle with the bar pointing to the left about 10 o'clock. The saw does not 'swing around' in any way, shape or form. I pull the rope handle up, not sideways toward my gut. If the saw were to kick back during the starting process then it would cartwheel in front of me without coming toward me (although I have never had any kickback ever occur during the starting process). If I turned the saw around then my body would be in line with the chain. If the spinning chain contacted something and the saw kicked back during the starting process then it would come back into me. This is why I refuse to use the 'rear handle between the knees' method. In trying to mandate 'acceptable' methods, whoever came up with this one totally screwed the pooch. If the saw motor kicks back then you've just kicked yourself in the testicles and if the chain kicks back then it comes back on you and cuts you in the face or shoulder.

celliott

Is there any serious issue with just starting the saw with the chain brake engaged? this eliminates the potential kickback, or spinning around, or whatever way you could be injured by the chain spinning while starting the saw.  I start my saw like this, is there any harm in doing so?
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

Dave Shepard

You've just got to be quick to get it dropped back to an idle so it doesn't rev against the clutch. I always start my 394XP with the brake on. They only bump the rpms a little on a choked start, not full throttle like some. I know my saw well enough that when it fires I just push in the choke and blip the throttle to unlock it.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Al_Smith

It's just the nature for some saws to try and rip your shoulder and fingers off it seems . I have a couple,namely an 084 and a 2100 Huskie . My cure is a D handle .

Some find the D handle gets in their way but it doesn't bother me .

On those big saws as well as a few more I own ,my method on a cold start  is a foot in the rear handle ,right hand pushing down on the front, pull with the left .

Hot start in competition is push with the left, pull with the right  or at least that works best for me .About 95 percent of the time they fire first pull .

peppone

Quote from: Al_Smith on June 01, 2010, 01:59:38 PM
It's just the nature for some saws to try and rip your shoulder and fingers off it seems . I have a couple,namely an 084 and a 2100 Huskie . My cure is a D handle .

Some find the D handle gets in their way but it doesn't bother me .

On those big saws as well as a few more I own ,my method on a cold start  is a foot in the rear handle ,right hand pushing down on the front, pull with the left .

Hot start in competition is push with the left, pull with the right  or at least that works best for me .About 95 percent of the time they fire first pull .
I totally agree with you ;D
you're invited to visit my forum all about chainsaws:
http://lamotosega.forumattivo.com/forum.htm
saluti
peppone

Thank You Sponsors!