iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Zero clearance insert function?

Started by Brad_bb, May 27, 2010, 09:52:21 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Brad_bb

While looking at the available zero clearance inserts for my old 10 in. unisaw, I was wondering... Is the point to close up the gap on the sides of the blade or also in front of the blade?  What I mean is, if I cut through the insert the first time and have my blade as, say, full height, then I lower the blade height and now I have a large gap in front of the blade, that is ok, right?  The point is to close up the side gaps so that whey you are cutting it will help to shear the wood fibers due to support on the sides?

I do need to add a splitter as well.  I generally do not use the big arm that came with the saw.  Any recommendation for insert or splitter would be helpful too. 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

beenthere

I think you have it figured out.  :)  But yes, it is better if the insert is closed at the front of the blade as well. That will reduce the splitting of wood in front of the blade that may pull fibers out that are at an angle to the saw cut line. But would require a new in sert for each height of blade that is lower than a previous height.

However, the fiber pull would likely be minimal, and may not be noticable in the end.

And a splitter is a skin saver.. ;D
I made one up from a small piece of thin steel that bolts up to the blade cover attachment point. It is only about a half inch high, so just has to be removed when I do dado cuts that are shallow. May not work that easy on your saw.



south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

metalspinner

Another good use for the zero clearance insert is when ripping very narrow stock.  The ripped piece will not be pulled down by the blade at the end of the cut.  I often use the table saw for resawing stock under 6" wide and the zero clearance gives me the needed support to confidently resaw narrow stuff.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

pigman

I made a splitter simular to beenthere's except mine hase a slot and a small spring on the bolt so I can push in down when cutting dados.
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

Jasperfield

In my experience, the unnoticed value of the insert is that it seems to "project" it's function forward thereby supporting the cut of the instant wood.

Feed rate, I believe, assists this as well.

I know splitters help, but I've either not noticed their "big" effect or I've really never had a situation where the piece was trying to close into the blade

pigman

The main function of a splitter is to keep the wood from catching on the back of the blade, being lifted up on top of the blade and then launched at the operator at great velocity.
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

Brad_bb

Yeah, I need a splitter.  Got hit in the stomach by a piece of wood the other day.  I was ripping some treated SYP and just as I finished the rip, bam! It caught and put a nice scratch on my stomach. Preferably I need a splitter that is easily removable when switching to cross cuts.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

trapper

carpenter where i worked got hit in the stomach from a kick back and died from it a few hours later from internal bleeding.  This happened about 5 years ago.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

Warbird

Yeah, I only made a few cuts w/o the splitter installed on mine before figuring out it needs to be there.  I don't have near as nice a table saw as most of you guys but I do like the splitter Rigid came up with.  It is very easy to install and remove, as needed.

tyb525

Do any of you have an older Craftsman table saw that has the thin throat? I can't say exactly how old mine is, but it's probably from the 80's. It has the insert that is about 1/8" thick....and I haven't figured out what material to use to make a zero-clearance insert that doesn't flex a lot.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

pigman

Ty, take a thicker piece of wood for strength and route around under the outer edge enough so the insert will be the correct heigth.
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

Brad_bb

My saw is a 1953 Delta unisaw with 220V 3hp motor.  So it's not the strongest motor.  Sure it hurt when I got hit by the kickback, but luckily not too bad.  Just a good scratch while it deflected off my layer of shock absorbing material.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Ironwood

The original splitter/ slittter for that saw is fairly rare and desirable. I had a saw and sold the splitter to a buddy I owed a favor to. Sold the saw to another guy later. It mounts down under the zero clearence behind the blade, ther eis a bolt hole or two there for it. You could make your own if you could find an original to copy.



Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

WDH

The zero clearance at the sides of the blade really helps when you are crosscutting glued up panels or plywood to minimize tear out.

I got punched in the stomach once as well, and it was pretty bad.  The bruise ended up about the size of a small saucer and had all the colors of universe from purple, yellow, green, blue, black, well, you get the picture.  The blade was set to cut only about a quarter of an inch above the wood as I had read that this was the safest way to rip since only a little of the blade was exposed.  I had taken the splitter off to cut dados and had not put it back on.  The stock pinched at the back of the blade and rode up on the teeth.  Not good at all.  You will be amazed at the velocity that is achieved when the stock rides up on a spinning blade.

Now, I always rip with the blade well up over the stock.  The blade cuts better and safer that way in my experience.  Yes, if you stick your hand in the blade it will hurt you worse than if the blade is set just higher than the thickness of the stock, so don't stick your hand in the blade.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: WDH on June 05, 2010, 10:47:49 PM
... Yes, if you stick your hand in the blade it will hurt you worse than if the blade is set just higher than the thickness of the stock, so don't stick your hand in the blade.

Take my word for it, don't stick your hand in the blade, no matter how high it is raised...



It will hurt, I promise you, it will hurt...

Herb

metalspinner

I had a terrible kickback a few years ago.  I was cutting an octagon on some 8/4 stock and the piece wobbled then rotated on its narrow face while being pushed through.  It shot back like a rocket and nailed the garage door leaving a huge dent.  Luckily, I saw it happening and ducked for cover. :o

I have developed the habit of standing off to the left and clear of the pathway behind the blade.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

WDH

Quote from: metalspinner on June 06, 2010, 12:02:00 AM
I have developed the habit of standing off to the left and clear of the pathway behind the blade.

Me too.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

D._Frederick

After my run in with a kick-back, the  only time the guard/splitter won't be on is when I am da doing.

jbpaxton

A neighbor a few years ago was planning 2X6's in a old flatbelt driven square head planier. As he was ready to set another one on the knives hit a large knot and kicked the 2X6 back at him, hit him in the groin area. He was hospitalized for a couple of weeks, semi recovered but will never reproduce.
jbpaxton

DR_Buck

I'm afraid of my PM-2000.   I leave the riving knife in almost all the time as my splitter.  And, when I'm not running dados I keep the top guard in place.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

OneWithWood

I have a healthy respect for my PM-2000 also.  The knife and guards always stay in place.  I try to never stand in line with the blade and use a push stick for everything possible.

I keep a few insert blanks I made up on hand and periodically make new zero clearance inserts by bringing the blade up through the insert. 
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Thank You Sponsors!