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Stihl 210c

Started by chain, May 12, 2010, 05:44:30 PM

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chain

Is this model a notoriously 'hard-to-run' model? From the get-go I've had troubles mostly in starting and running. It has been in the shop three times but always within 20hrs. or so the same trouble sets in. That trouble would mainly be poor acceleration often chokng down. Yes. I've adjusted screws and service repair folks always put a few parts and they say,"$75 bucks, and good to go!"

I like this saw the way it is balanced and use it mainly for TSI and farm, handles well when running. High maintenance dictates "getting shud of it!"  >:(

eamassey

I use a 210C as a secondary saw.  Primary is MS362.  I have worn out about 3-1/2 chains.  The only part or service is the replacement of one sprocket.  I do think that the next time I need a chain, I will need a new bar.  Easy starter, runs good, cuts suprisingly good when the the chain is good and sharp.

JohnG28

What repairs has the shop done that get it back running right for a little while?  Are they just making adjustments, or replacing parts, etc?  How old is it? Did it used to run well or this been a problem since you owned it?
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

ENTS

My buddies 210 was a real problem (to him) in the beginning.  He was constantly flooding it and blaming the saw.  Secondary problem was the flippy caps, he was always just jamming them in and turning instead of looking for the key way.  Lately he doesn't seem to have a problem with either of the above but I'm waiting to see that saw go flying when he get's frustrated with it.

I too would like to know what your dealer serviced on your saw.


Later,
Fred Henry,  Over Worked, Under Paid

chain

Today, I took the saw to my wood-shed, it was do..or die..it did it! I could not believe it started and ran like a hornet, buzzed everything asked of it and more! So, there must be something rather simple, maybe not running the saw often enough. It was laid-up a month this last time when troubles set in.

Anyway, I bought the saw new in February of '06. Service always replaces plug, a 'kit' , cleaning, possibly more that I have fogotton about. Tomorrow or monday I will test it out and run it hard for an hour or so. I'm thinking, possibly, I am flooding it and not allowing to clear and take out plug, etc.

Rocky_J

Plugs should be a non issue. I have 7-8 year old saws with the original plug, used on a commercial basis. Today's spark plugs can often outlast the saw. But they are an easy $2 part (which retail for $8) for the dealer to change so he can sell you a "tune up". There is no such thing as a tune up on a two cycle motor with electronic ignition. No oil to change, no ignition parts to change (unless they sell you a new plug which you don't need), all they can do is put fresh fuel in it and make sure the carb is adjusted properly. If the carb won't adjust, then they can put a new gasket kit in the carb. These sell for $10 and take about 15 minutes for someone who knows what he's doing. This is the full extent of your 'carb rebuild and tune up'.

The vast majority of running problems on two cycle equipment that does not get used on a regular basis is directly attributable to fuel issues. Somebody who doesn't run it often will not be buying fresh gas every week for it, and with the ethanol now mandated in gasoline it can go stale in 3-4 weeks.

Buy fresh gas in small quantities, use the best two cycle oil you can find and dump any gas older than 2 weeks into your car or truck gas tank.

JohnG28

I think RockyJ is right there.  If your not using it regularly, dump the remaining fuel in it after use, then restart and run it dry.  And use fresh gas. You can add an additive like Stabil to your gas when you mix it to keep it fresh longer, but still dont want to keep it more than a few months. If its needing a carb kit that often you probably have fuel issues.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

eamassey

There is a problem with starting the 210.  This is on a cold start where you push the switch all the way down.  At the very first sign that the saw responds to cranking, a "pop" or "cough", etc., you must release the choke before continuing to crank.   If you keep cranking after that "pop", you can easily flood the saw, and it will take 20 cranks after that to clear the excess gas.  Having figured this out the first day I ran the saw, I would call the saw a very easy starter after that.

chain

Thanks for all the suggestions, looks like i've been had in the service department. >:( My luck, but the retailer I bought the saw from sold out to a competitor,  I was very ,very disappointed; by the way a Stihl factory is within one mile of the retailer, but don't know what products they make there.

Anyway, today I put the saw to another test. Started fine, buzzed right through several cull hickory, oak, and gum saplings, poles, and larger, about the time it got really warmed up the saw shut down while idling getting over to the next tree. This time I rested a minute or so and careful not to choke, it restarted about the third pull and really went to work for the rest of the job. Fresh fuel from now on!

sefh

Make sure you drain the gas out after each use, unless it's going to be used within a week or so. Also make sure your mixed container is emptied also.
Stihl 056 27"
Stihl 290 20"
Stihl 026 20"

joe_indi

The 'C' version has a different muffler to keep sound levels down.
What you sacrifice is quite a lot of power due to poor breathing.
A lot of carbon buildup is also a problem.
Replace the muffler with a regular 210 muffler and you should get nearly 30% improvement overall.A 230 muffler will give even better breathing and add to the performance

Joe

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