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Advice/opinion, please

Started by jmmy6767, May 01, 2010, 12:19:16 PM

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jmmy6767

Good morning,   I am thinking about buying one of the alaskan chainsaw mills, and wanted to here from any of you have any experience with them.   My basic question is how big of a saw do I really need to have.  Size meaning how big of a motor, or cc's?    I am planning on using the mill to saw for myself.   Starting with making lumber/posts for my first barn.    The only saw I have right now is an older Stihl 029.  I want to buy a saw with plenty of power,  but don't want to buy something and go way overboard.  Money of course is the isssue.   So if you would, please flood me with  all your experience.       Thanks,    jimmy 8)
jimmy

jander3

At least 65 cc.  100 cc would be better.  I use a 97 cc Husky for the Alaskan Mill .  I purchased my 97 cc saw used and it still cost me $600.  I also use a mini mill (chainsaw attachment), which makes squaring up the beam quite a bit quicker.  I normally use the 97 cc for ripping with the Alaskan Mill and the 65 cc saw for the mini mill.

I have ripped logs in half with a 35 cc saw; it is too slow and too hard on the saw.





The mill works well for cutting beams.  I can cut planking also, but you gotta have some time.

jmmy6767

Jander, thanks for the quick  response.  I just got done looking at the stumps page.  It looks like it is going well.   The pic you put on here, is that the alaskan mill, or the mini-mill?  am I getting the two confused?   How much does a 100 cc. saw run for? 
jimmy

jander3

The photo in the post above is the Alaskan Mill with 97 cc saw.

The photo below is the Mini-mill with 65 cc saw.





I spent $600 for a used 97cc saw.  New I think the saws run about $1200.   However, when I use square ground chain with this big saw, the savings in time is was worth every penny.   65cc would work fine, just take a little longer.  I wouldn't use a 35 cc saw.

I believe my new 65 cc saw was about $550.

jmmy6767

Jander, thanks for thinfo.    I thought the firstpicture was the alaskan mill.    By the way,  I saw the floor for your loft at stumps.    Looks nice.     thanks again, jimmy
jimmy

Doug_D

Jim I wanted to see how well one of those mills worked before I invested too much money.  Like yourself I already had a smaller (290) chainsaw.  I picked up a super cheap $30 guide off of ebay and gave it a whirl.  It may have been the best $30 I've spent in a while as I am the kind of guy that sometimes just has to see with my own eyes.

I have now used it to cut both red oak and white pine.  While I was able to cut red oak with my smaller 290 saw, it took forever!  I would do pine or any other softwood, but hard woods take a really long time.  I have since acquired a 660 and have no problems cutting either, but the process does take a while.  I still have not had a chance to try a 0 degree chain, but I've heard that will also make a huge difference  in cutting speed, but you have need the power to back it up. 

http://www.woodworking.com/dcforum/DCForumID5/7296.html

Hope this helps....
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jander3

From Doug's photos, it looks like he used a lumber maker http://www.loghelp.com/p-1199-haddon-lumbermaker.aspx which works quite well. This was the first set up I started with; I still use it for cutting window and door openings in cabin walls.  I found the set up of the Mini Mill http://www.loghelp.com/p-1175-mini-mill.aspx to be quicker and more accurate.  Either of these work very well for cutting beams.


ladylake

I'd also consider a small push along bandsaw, a chainsaw mill cost less to start with but cost can add up fast, chains, gas , and wear and tear on a saw. Cutting beams kerf size wont matter much but if you end up cutting 1" or 2" you'll get more boards with a bandsaw.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

logwalker

Bailey's, a fine supporter here, has the big Solo on sale. I think it is 90 cc's which is perfect for a one head operation. We have 2 of the 81's on a 6' bar here and it works great.

Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

jmmy6767

My questions always lead to more questions ???  Ley me see if I can get these in the right order.    First-- jander,   what do you look for when looking at a used chainsaw?  Second goes to Steve.   Steve,   I have seen adds/video for a small bandsaw that basically rolls on two rails built out of 2x4's.   What if a guy got himself some angle iron to aly down for the rails?   would seem to me to be more stable, constant ,and or smooth ride than the 2x4's  ??    Last but not least  Joe.    What is a "big solo"  and who makes it.    I looked at the Bailey's page but didn't see that chainsaw.    I am new so probably just didn't know where to look.    Thanks guys,   jimmy
jimmy

zopi

I have an Alaskan...but you'll notice I have a band mill...buncha good reasons for that..
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

captain_crunch

Years back I ran mine with an 075 Sthill and the 0 deg chain worked 100% better 35 deg ducked and dived and was a fight to get thru log where the ) deg just walked right on thru the log
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

bandmiller2

Seems to me a chainsaw mill is good for special cuts like splitting a log you can't handle or a wilderness camp.Even the simplest manual bandmill will surpass.Large powerfull chainsaws are expensive and wear out too soon, using one for milling is like leveling your milling machine with silver dollars.Old pharts opinion your mileage may vary.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ladylake

  Jimmy  I'd for sure make some metal tracks for a push along bandsaw as long as you need for your needs.  2 x4 's sure don't sound like a good idea.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

jander3

I would be very wary of any used saw.   I purchased a used saw from a local saw shop owner who I have been dealing with for many years.  He knew the history of the saw and how it was cared for.  Additionally, if I ended up with problems, I know we would be able to work out a solution.

I won't buy a saw from Craig's list or the classifieds, unless it was at a price that I could completely rebuild.

Chainsaw mills are great for beams, posts, and logwork. For me, they take way too long for cutting planking.  However, if I need planking, I bite the bullet and spend the time (it is either cut my wood with the chainsaw or tote store bought wood to the cabin site...neither option is appealing) .  At some point, when I have the cash, I plan to buy a small sawmill, but in the meantime I will continue to use the chainsaw.

You can get set up with an Alaskan Mill and 65 cc saw for about $650.  I don't think a band saw mill is a huge advantage for cutting beams.  If you are cutting piles of planking, well, if a chainsaw mill is your only option, you need time and patience.

jmmy6767

I think in my situation, the chainsaw mill would be a good way to get into this.   Thanks for all the comments,  I really do appreciate the help.     Thanks,  jimmy
jimmy

captain_crunch

Jimmy
They are a far cry from being a mill but do get the job done so for OLD Time sake I got mine out today




If you look at cut you see it is about 3"started out at 2" This log has caused me fits in Circle mill so I got out old Bertha have not used it in 25 years and used 066 Sthill and same problem. But I cut lots of 2X6 for fence boards years back with one and they do work but just Durn slowly after haveing a mill. But you can make lots of lumber with little  envestment compared to a mill unless you want lots of lumber faster
Brian
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

sigidi

When you guys are milling with chainsaws are you all using full chisel (square tooth) chain? I tend to find in my Lucas slabber the full chisel chain cuts nice to begin with, but gets blunt really quick and the semi-chisel tend to still do a good job, but holds it edge much longer. Also I'm using 10* on the teeth rather than 0* or 30-35* and she gives a great finish and cuts quite quick too.
Always willing to help - Allan

jander3

I use square ground skip chain, it cuts great; it might need a little more attention with a file as compared to full-chisel skip without the square ground.  Either works well with a big saw, square ground cuts better.   The skip chain makes a big difference as it allows the saw to cut smoothly.

bill m

I have cut thousands of feet with my chainsaw and have found that 35 deg. chain will cut just as fast if not faster than 0 deg. But the 0 deg. chain does give a smoother finish.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

captain_crunch

Baileys use to sell chain just for this and if memory works it was full skip with every 3 top plate ground off so it could clean out saw dust. Years ago I also cut lots of lumber with Alaskan mill but to get a board (mainly in cedar) that did not look like it was chewed off ) deg tooth done better job. Chisle bit chain has a very sharp edge compared to round ground chain. Nothing will cut with square ground but ANY dirt and it is done. When I fell timber we changed chains 3 times in 6 hr day dull or not and ground chains every nite. But these were 42 and 60" bars dealing with 4-6' old growth fir logs
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

jmmy6767

Thanks for the pics, Captain.   How old would an 066 be?   There is one for sale up here in Ohio, on Craigslist.  I have never bought a used chainsaw before, and to be honest probably won't buy this one, just because I don't really know what to look for other than to start it up and cut something with it.  I don't know the seller, but I have seen a number of saws sold by him in past ads.   Not sure this makes him trustworthy though.
jimmy

captain_crunch

Jimmy
That Sthill be old I run Huskys when I fell timber except for the 075 Sthill I started with.
To be honest even if you have to make payments  Go new saw it will have a warentee and Pay Bay and Cruds list generally have items that owner feels are worth more than trade in value was allowed. Even if you ever get item >:( >:( >:(
Guess you are going to spend a grand on a new saw  but at 75.00 each time to saw shop not to mention head aches.
Granted I can be the cheapest SOB you will ever meet but learned long ago as a cutter to do top notch job you got to have top notch TOOLS
Brian
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

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