Saw blade burn

[D._Frederick]

I am using a 50 tooth Freud combination blade to rip 5/4 white oak and less I feed fast, I am getting quite  a bit of burning. Is this common with this type blade?

Most of the time, I allow 1/32 inch to run through the jointer. Would I get burning with a flat tooth rip blade?

What are the thoughts on using blade stabilizers, do they help to get a smoother cut?

[pigman]

Make sure the fence is parallel to the saw blade or at most 2° away from the blade.. White oak should not burn cutting with a combo blade. All rip cuts should be made with a moderate amount of speed. I have never used blade stabilizers, so I don't have knowledge about them. I undestand they are used primarly on thin kurf blades.

[SwampDonkey]

It could be related the fence alignment (or mitre), table surface causing resistance with wood piece (waxing will alleviate this), power of your motor and sharpness. My trouble is having to wire my motor for 110V, not enough juice to get through 1-1/2 or thicker stock quick enough. Once in awhile a piece is also out of alignment, which is my own fault for not waxing the table top more often to reduce drag on the work piece. ;)

[DR Buck]

If your blade is sharp, like already mentioned check you fence alignment to the blade.  White oak will also burn if you feed to slow.   If you have a horse power problem you might not be able to solve it.   I replaced my table saw 2 years ago and went to a 220 volt 3 HP beast.   I don't burn white oak anymore.     I also use a thin kerf ripping blade.

[D._Frederick]

My  tablesaw is a Powermatic 66 with a 2 HP motor, I am not lacking for power.

I have the fence setup so that it is about 0.012 -0.015 further away from the back of the blade, what have you found to work the best?

[Doug_D]

One thing I've notice too is that if my blades are dirty, I seem to get a little burning.  But thats mostly on cherry.  Take windex and a toothbrush and clean off any pitch.  Are you using the coated blade (red)?

I thought PM 66's were 3 hp?  5/4 white oak and a full kerf  (1/8") blade will work a 2 HP motor...3HP no problem.  Take a couple of light passes with the blade depth set lower only removing half of the cut and see if you get any burning. 

If you need to know about burning cherry, just ask me.  Most of the stuff I build out of cherry ends up burnt so bad it belongs in the burn pile  :D  stupid wood....

[D._Frederick]

If I remember correctly, the 2hp could be run on 110 or 220 volt, the 3hp only on 220v. On two inch hardwood, the motor hums a little louder but does not loose many rpm.

I cleaned up my combination blade with some oven cleaner, sprayed it on, wire brushed it, and rinsed it off about as fast as I am typing this. It took everything off to bare metal. I need to have it sharpened, but for 50 tooth blade is about 1/2 the cost of a new blade. This blade is close to 20 years old and they have much better design blades now. So am debating if I should spend the $40 on a flat ground 24 tooth rip blade. I have never been too happy with this combination blade, it does nothing really well.

[Doug_D]

If its the same 50t blade I have, I could not agree with you more.  It does nothing really well, but is not bad either. 

For ripping 4/4 stuff I use freud's 30t glue line rip.  That blade is amazing.  Leaves an edge ready for joining.

I still have not been able to bring myself to spending the $$ for a Forest WW II blade ($110).  I've seen it in action at shows and have been impressed. 

I would like to see what that 24t blade (LU87) does, but I really don't do much over 6/4 most of the time.  For the money that looks like a great blade.

[CHARLIE]

I've tried blade stabalizers. I tried one stabilzer against the blade. I tried two stabalizers, one on each side of the blade.  I found that they lessen how deep your blade will cut and that they didn't do anything else. Not worth the money. I'm glad I got them free from a woodworker friend that found the same thing I did....but first.