band lube

[maineshops]

i am new to milling. i see that most of the group uses water to lube the blade. i have never heard of lubeing metal with water. i've been using bar oil and kero mix. am i missing something? i'm just a hobby operation.

[Chuck White]

I use 5 gallon water jug with about 4-5 tablespoons of dishsoap added.
The water mix not only lubes the blade, but it cleans & cools it too.

I also have a windshield washer tank (from an old car) with the pump still on it and when I get a blade
that is built up with pitch, I just give it a small amount of kerosene/gear-oil mix.  Cleans the blade like new.


Forgot, welcome to the Forestry Forum.

[Brad_S.]

Welcome to the forum.
If you do a search, you will find there are two schools of thought on lubes and each school is very opinionated regarding the others thoughts. I use straight diesel and feel it is superior to water mixes and have never experienced any negative side effects from it. Others feel strongly against diesel/kero. If it is working to your satisfaction, keep using it.

[Tom]

Mainshops,
The use of the term "lubricant" is almost a misnomer.  While it is a lubricant, it isn't a lubricant in the same respect that Oil on a bearing is a lubricant.

The purpose is to keep the band from "gumming up".  Sawing produces heat.  Heat will melt the sap/resins in the cant.   The sap will adhere to the saw band, and will build up.  It will also cause sawdust to stick to the surface.   The problem arises when the buildup is thick  enough that the body of the saw rubs in the kerf and generates more heat.  It also causes bands to wander because the bands use the configuration of the kerf to help guide the band as well as depend on the surfaces of the guides and band to keep them straight. 

Water, or other "lubricants", purpose is to keep the sap/resin from adhering to the band.   The stuff sticks in an instant.  It happens within micro-seconds of leaving the edge of the cant.  If something can keep it from adhering to the band, then there is a good chance that the centrifugal forces, realized at the band-wheel, will sling the stuff off and the band will remain clean.

Water will do this.  Sometimes it needs a little help from some soap (though soap can get into bearings and devoid them of grease).  Sometimes sawyers will use diesel or some other thinner oil in the hopes that it will help dissolve resin as well as keep it from sticking.   The argument against oils is that the oil has to go somewhere, like onto the board, onto the sawmill, onto the sawyer, into the sawdust, etc.  Those who use it argue that there isn't enough used to matter.

The argument for Water is that it generally works, is almost always available, is non-polluting in most anyone's world, and is cheap.

[den]

You can try Water + Pinesol + A Little Dish Soap

[purple otter]

Hello all, I'm new to sawing and have enjoyed reading all the advice you guys offer.I have only had my mill a couple of months and have not tried it with the lube .My question is do you use lube on hardwoods too or only softwoods? I have sawn some cherry ,red oak,white oak and white ash with no problems ,but I just wondered if lube would  make it cut better. Thanks for any advice.
                                     
                                           Steve

[Magicman]

As Tom said, everyone has their favorite.  I use 2oz of Cascade per gallon of water, and use it on everything I saw.  Just more on pine.  Note: Cascade doesn't make bubbles.

[thecfarm]

maineshops,welcome to the forum.What kind of saw you have?Are you sawing for other people? I use the half diesel,half chain and bar oil mix. Just a drip every 3-4 seconds is all it takes.But I only saw for myself. I would not want to drag my saw from place to place using a oil lube.People would have a fit.The same people that run 2 vehicles,four wheelers,motorcycles,motor boats,lawnmowers,etc,but none of theirs drips any oil. : It might even stain the wood too.I only use mine to build with so have no idea about the staining part.I have not noticed any,but I'm not putting a finish onto the wood I saw.I turn the drip off when I load a log on or anytime I don't have the blade into the log.I have sold some wood a few times to someone that was going to make wooden figures to go on a lawn.Did not hear of any complaints as yet.

[bandmiller2]

Mainshops,where in Maine?? Alot depends many times,as you've found out,you don't need any lube.Everything is trying to catch up to diesel and a little oil,I don't mean dripping it on in copius quantities but applied with a wick very sparingly.In our part of the world freezing is a big problem,when diesel freezes abort the days milling.All I can say is try boath then make up your mind.Frank C.

[maineshops]

first, thanks for the welcome to the group. I'll try to answer some questions. my mill is an oscar 18 and i cut just for myself and occasionally a neighbor. my mill is stationary in my garage. I'm a retired machinist and i have a small machine shop to aid in my tinkering. so far i have built a gantry crane to load logs onto the mill a skidding arch for the 4 wheeler and a few smaller items. i live in ludlow me up in "the county"
   as to the question on lube. it has been my experience with bearings that when the bearings warm up they will draw any cooler liquid that comes into contact with them weather they are open, shielded, or sealed.so if i use water it will damage the bearings. it would be interesting to do a study on guide bearing failure between those folks that use different lubes. right now i am cutting tamarack for a new chicken coop floor and have to use a lot of lube.
   i know nothing about milling and there is very little information, in the way of books, out there on small basic operation. sure glad i found this site. thanks

[Magicman]

  as to the question on lube. it has been my experience with bearings that when the bearings warm up they will draw any cooler liquid that comes into contact with them weather they are open, shielded, or sealed.so if i use water it will damage the bearings. it would be interesting to do a study on guide bearing failure between those folks that use different lubes.

The "study" has already been run.  I certainly trust WM's Research & Development.  I use Cascade/water and put thousands of hours between blade guide replacement.  The blade guides wear down and need replacing before the bearings fail.....

BTW, mainshops.....Welcome to The Forestry Forum......

[woodmills1]

I use only bar oil/ diesel 50 50 mix and squirt it from an old style lever squeeze can.  always first when I change blades and then if I see some build up or can hear the blade noise increasing, and then just before I remove a blade to make it clean for sharpening

the only time this doesn't work is when I drive the blade through a pine pitch pocket, then look out for diving rapidly