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husqvarna grease gun

Started by OAP, April 02, 2010, 12:56:25 PM

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OAP

Hi this is my first post here but I have been on here quite a lot reading everbody elses posts.
  I recentley bought a new 395xp and its been all good so far but I have one little problem that I cannot make the small grease gun that comes with the saw work. Its probably something simple that I've missed but at the risk of looking stupid I've got to ask how the hell can I get grease out of it  ???. Thanks for any help

joe_indi

The Husky grease gun usually comes empty. So you might need to fill it before you can use it.
Here's what I do to fill it.
Pull out everything colored red.
You will be left with the black cylinder in your hand.It has a broad end and a narrow end.
Choose, the least messy way to fill the cylinder with grease through the broad end it the grease comes out of the narrow end.I use an old steel ruler to scoop up the grease and press it into the cylinder.
Now put the red (and black) bit you pulled off the narrow end back in its place.
Some excess grease will come up in the broad end, remove it and push the red inner cup into the broad end.Put the outer cup onto the broad end.
Once you have cleaned up all the mess, put the metal nipple at the narrow end into the tine hole on the bar nose (near the sprocket rivets.
Push the grease gun down to its stop.
It may not work the first few times because the air has to be pumped out.
One the gun is primed there will be a bit of resistance when you push the gun down.
Rotate the sprocket after each press of the gun to get the grease all around.
After 3 three strokes flip the bar over.
There should be an identical hole on this side too.
Three strokes here and the greasing is done.

Joe

OAP

Well thanks for your help Joe and yes I have filled it with grease, I'll have another go in the morning thanks again

quietrangr

It sometimes helps to use oil instead of grease until it starts pumping. Open a hole through the grease for the oil to get into the grease gun head, then hold the gun point down so the oil flows into the head. You might have to make a hole through the grease with a piece of wire.

sawguy21

Joe, that second sentence is funny but I am sure he thought of that. :D The gun is likely air locked as you suggest.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

OAP

Quote from: quietrangr on April 02, 2010, 07:37:48 PM
It sometimes helps to use oil instead of grease until it starts pumping. Open a hole through the grease for the oil to get into the grease gun head, then hold the gun point down so the oil flows into the head. You might have to make a hole through the grease with a piece of wire.
Job done thanks for the tip. I was beganing to think it was a bad one.

Ed

Glad you figured it out...

Many moons ago when I bought my first Husky, the dealer handed me th e package with the grease gun.
"Please don't judge the saw by the quality of that grease gun"  :D

Ed

Clogger

Thanks for the info on this board - I was getting annoyed not being able to make the Husky gun work that came with my 346XP.   After reading what you guys had suggested, I decided an airlock must have been the problem for me too.  To expell the air, rather than use a wire or pull the grease out & repack it, I decided on a simpler approach: with the gun full of grease, I compressed the gun by pushing it at an angle onto a piece of flat wood, to expell the air in the nozzle.  Then with it still compressed I moved the gun upright and let it uncompress (so the wood wouldn't let air get back into the chamber from the nozzle).  Pumped it like that a couple of times and presto! Grease flowed from the nozzle.  Thanks guys!

John Mc

I think I remember reading some debate on whether to grease the sprocket at the bar tip at all. Some bars do not even have a grease hole at the tip. If I recall correctly, the theory was that the grease just attracted dirt and plugged things up, and it was better to just leave it dry (and let the bar and chain oil lubricate it as it flowed around he bar?)

I do remember someone saying that once you did grease it, you needed to keep on doing so on a regular basis, to push out the old grease and collected dirt.

I'm curious what some of our more experienced chainsaw users/repairers think on this point. I can't remember the outcome of this debate.

Similar discussion on clutch bearings grease regularly? or whenever you change a chain? or only when you replace the bearings or otherwise have it apart?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

lumberjack48

I learned this back in the 70's , not to grease a bar, i had to throw all my grease guns out in the woods, because my crew could not keep their hands off them, when i said don't grease the bars thats just what i meant. the 2 hardest things on a roller nose is to run the chain to tight, and the other is to grease it, this is from years of experience, we ran 5+ gals of saw gas every day.   

The only time i greased the clutch bearing was when i put a new sprocket on, i used wheel bearing grease on it
One thing is don't run your chain to tight this is hard on crank bearings and seals, sprocket, sprocket bearing, roller nose, and can cause saw to over heat, in other words just burns things up.

When your running your saw and let up on throttle and the chain stops dead the chain is to tight.

I always told my guys I'd rather see a lose chain then one to tight.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

petefrom bearswamp

Good advice Lumberjack!
Pete
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

bill m

I never grease the tip on my bars and only use light oil on my clutch bearings when I install them.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

thecfarm

I use to grease the tip years ago. Than I stopped. I don't know if it matters or not. No way for me to go back in time and grease the tip. I don't think it makes much of a difference.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Caloren

Was surprised when I bought my first Stihl - no grease hole on the bar, been greasing those things for thirty years! Wore out a few bars, including Stihl, but never a sprocket nose. Don't bother buying bars with replacable tips any more, since I've never had to replace one.
After reading this thread I think we have been wasting a bunch of grease!
Loren
Stihl MS 170, Stihl MS 310, Stihl 028 AV Super, and half a dozen other no-accounts! Cat D4 D.

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