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LT30 conversion

Started by guitarguy, March 16, 2010, 09:43:07 AM

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guitarguy

Howdy folks - Dave here ( new to the forum) What a great resource ! I have a 1985 LT30 WM with a 16hp Kohler engine that I want to convert to electric. Mostly I do resawing of blocks less than 10" wide for guitar parts but occasionally will mill a few logs. I have my shop pretty far out on the grid - I live in the sticks in SW Oregon and am limited to how much power I can get without neighbor's light flickering. Don't really have access to 3 phase unless I get a phase converter. I am wondering if anyone in this forum has done such a conversion and can share some photos, drawings or ideas. Any electric mills in SW Oregon that I can see?  I am thinking of a 10hp motor but wondering if a 7.5hp might be sufficient. Also, is it possible to retrofit an Accuset to an older mill like mine.I typically will make 20 cuts from a single block (3/16" thick each piece) so an Accuset would really help.

                                                                thanks - Dave

Magicman

Dave,  Welcome to The Forestry Forum.  I can think of several folks that will chime in on your question.  A search will turn up additional information.  Again, welcome..... :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bibbyman

We have a roto phase converter and I documented it in the "Knowlege Base".  Here is the link.

https://forestryforum.com/tips/tips.cgi?display:1048263552-19768.txt

You may be able to go to something like a 10hp single phase and avoid the converter.  It should be about equal to the 16hp gas engine.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

pineywoods

guitarguy, I went through the same problem when the briggs on my 95 LT40 just wore out. I ended up with another (larger) gas engine, 7 hp is about the max on single phase unless you go 440 volt. The real can of worms is weight. Them electric motors are heavy. The head up- down stuff will need to be beefed up. I don't think the accuset will adapt to anything older than 97. Don't know about the new simple setworks, I would be interested in putting that on mine.
You might PM member shaworth. He is putting togather a custom setworks that will adapt to just about any bandmill.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Bibbyman

The LT15 is available with 10hp singe or three phase motors.  Maybe it'd be a better deal all the way around to let someone else have the old LT30 with engine and get a new LT15 with electric motor? 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

guitarguy

Does the LT15 have power feed and power up and down? I would have to have those - Dave

Bibbyman

 



Yes there is a power feed option - I think it's only forward reverse - not up and down.  I may be wrong.  But in any case,  the up/down is very easy on the new LT15s now that they have a gas shock type counter balance for the weight of the head.

Also, something to consider,  WM makes a new re-saw attachment for their mills.  It may make making precise cuts easier.





If your material you're getting for guitar blanks are already squared out, maybe what you really need is a resaw.  They make those too. Mary and JB running the new WM HR120 resaw.

Check out their web site.  Give them a call and explain what you want to do. They probably have a couple of options.  They may be able to take your LT30 in on trade.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Larry

Quote from: guitarguy on March 16, 2010, 09:43:07 AM
I live in the sticks in SW Oregon and am limited to how much power I can get without neighbor's light flickering.

I had a 10 hp single phase Baldor on an edger for awhile.  It would definitely dim lights.

I think WM has went to soft starts on there electrics to avoid that problem...some smart person would have to confirm.

You might be able to program a VFD for a soft start for a 3 phase motor with single phase input.  VFD's in that size get to be pricey though.  TECO manuals are online if you want to explore that route.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Hilltop366

Hi Gutitarguy, I really cant help you with your mill question but would like to say welcome and wouldn't mind hearing about your guitars sometime.

Hilltop
Cheers

Jim H

I used to have an '86 LT30, I think I remember seeing an electric option that far back. It might be a good idea to give woodmizer a call and ask what size motor they used (I think it was 7hp) and also ask if any changes were made to the up-down system to handle extra weight.
2008 LT40HDG28, autoclutch, debarker, stihl 026, 046, ms460 bow, 066, JD 2350 4wd w/245 loader, sawing since '94 fulltime since '98

backwoods sawyer

Welcome Dave
Up in Oakland (Douglas co.) there is a Cook mill that has been converted over to electric if you would like to take a look at it. I can put you in touch with him if you like. He pulled off a 62hp Perkins and replaced it with a 30hp 3 phase. If you are limited on power, then keeping a noisy gas engine may not be a bad option.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

sparks

Accuset will only work on sawmills 1997 and newer. We do not have a convertion to electric. The mills we built back then with electric motors were 10hp Baldor.
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

guitarguy

QuoteIf your material you're getting for guitar blanks are already squared out, maybe what you really need is a resaw.

I have thought about just getting a resaw machine,but still want to mill the occasional log.What rpm motor should I be looking for to do a conversion ? Does it need to be TEFC ? As far as the weight of the electric motor being an issue for up/down, I noticed that my Kohler 16hp on the mill now is 122 lbs. so that's comparable to some 10hp electric motors.

                     Dave

Bibbyman

Quote from: guitarguy on March 17, 2010, 09:10:34 AM
QuoteIf your material you're getting for guitar blanks are already squared out, maybe what you really need is a resaw.

I have thought about just getting a resaw machine,but still want to mill the occasional log.What rpm motor should I be looking for to do a conversion ? Does it need to be TEFC ? As far as the weight of the electric motor being an issue for up/down, I noticed that my Kohler 16hp on the mill now is 122 lbs. so that's comparable to some 10hp electric motors.

                     Dave

One thing you won't need is the 5 gal. gas can so tjat's about 40 lbs you won't have hanging out.  But you'll need a box with the motor starters.

Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

bandmiller2

3600 rpm motors tend to be lighter [and cheaper] than say  a 1750 motor.If you can start the motor unloaded you can help the dimming problem.I have converted to 3 phase but haven't tried it yet still wiring,I have a belt idler to start unloaded. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

guitarguy

Thanks to all for their help.Another question - I assume that I keep the up/down and power feed motors running on 12v.How do I set up the alternator to charge the battery ? - Dave

pineywoods

You can run the an alternator off the main electric motor, but why bother. You have electric power to the head, toss the alternator and just hook up a good heavy duty battery charger, mount it where the fuel tank was.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

jdrum

that is about the best conversion advice your going to get any where.  if you go the 3ph route remember you won't get the full rated hp,(you'll only get 70 to 80% of rated hp) so over size, a 10hp electric =16 to 18 hp gas  maybe a little less. should be ok for what you say you do and still have the grunt to handle the big stuff.
   i haven't looked at bibbymans link yet, but the rpc set up is the way to go in 3ph you'll get better performance from your load motor. and 3ph. is cheeper to operate than single ph.
  if you are still worried about power spikes at start up consider starting the rpc with a pony motor.
  hunt around scrap yards for 3ph motors, you can find them for a few cent over scrap price some times. look for higher rpm motors as then you don't have to step up to mill speed as much, (smaller motor drive pulley)  if you are interested i have more ideas to consider, give a holler.

jim

bandmiller2

A little different route would be to find a good size diesel generator three phase.You would have emergency power and could operate your shop equip. with heavy duty, available three phase motors.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

guitarguy

QuoteYou can run the an alternator off the main electric motor, but why bother. You have electric power to the head, toss the alternator and just hook up a good heavy duty battery charger, mount it where the fuel tank was.

So you would just hard wire the charger to the batteries ? Would you want it to be charging when you are not milling? I know from my  experience with my electric tractor, that keeping a trickle charge always on the batteries is not supposed to be good in some people's opinions - Dave

guitarguy

I've pretty much settled on using a 10hp single phase motor, as I can't get 3-phase and don't want to use a phase converter. I have a 10kw transformer nearby and most people I've talked to here think that a magnetic starter should be sufficient, no soft start needed.I plan to keep the 12v battery to run the power feed and up/down motors and just have a dedicated battery charger to the battery.
   Any thoughts  ?- Dave

west penn


  Since you will have power to your saw could'nt you use a d.c. converter and bypass the battery altogether?

guitarguy

I'm not too much of an electrical guy - hadn't thought of that - I'll check it out - thanks - Dave

guitarguy

What capacity converter would I need to run the feed and up/down motors ?

rbarshaw

Look at the max. current draw of each motor, then use the highest to determine it, plus 25% to allow headroom, unless  you will feed and raise/lower at same time, then add  them. A battery and charger might cost less.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

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