log clamp scares up lumber

[SDM]

Hey is there a trick to turning a big cant w\  hydraulic wm clamp w\out scaring up my boards? I've tried different methods, but on really big cants ( 12 to 16 in 12ft or more ) the best I've found is to raise the cant up as close to the edge as possible (edge of the cant itself).   At least then the scared part is usually edged out later. I thought about filing down the sharp edge of my clamp, but it might be better to ask first.        thanks shawn

[Chuck White]

I've seen it done, and done well without leaving scars on the cant!

I don't know exactly how it's done, but I know it takes hand-eye coordination.

The clamp has to move kind of out and up once you have picked up the edge of the cant!

Someone who does this routinely will be chiming in here soon and maybe you'll get a better description of what's going on when the cant is actually turned!

[bandmiller2]

Shawn I am assuming your talking about the two plain WM clamp not the chain turner that can really chew up a cant.As you lift up on the outer edge of the cant you also have to move out.As the cant is turned the corners of the cant hitting the rear rods pushes the cant twords the two plain clamp and if its not moved out will mark up the cant.Frank C.

[Chris Burchfield]

Have your rear back stops up all the way.  With the cant being turned and sawn on three sides with the claw turner.  Now, with the cant against the back stops, lift with the two plane clamp out near the edge.  This will begin to turn the cant.  You will lift as high as needed and move the two plane clamp away from the back stop allowing the back to fall to the bed.  Takes a little practice.  You can also practice once you have a cant on the bed just turning it over. You'll get the hang of it.

[Magicman]

And sometimes, all that you have to do is manually help it a bit.  Center the clamp under the cant and lift it up 6"-8".  Then simply tip it off and it will fall between the raised clamp and the side supports.  I've also lifted the outside edge with the log clamp and the used a cant hook to stand it up.

Even with a WM Superhydraulic mill, everything does not always fall into place.  Cants can be stubborn and a little persuasion is needed.  That's why Logrite makes short (mill) cant hooks..... ;D

[pineywoods]

This is one of the concerns I addressed when I designed the pineywoods clamp/turner.The geometry is such that lifting a cant also moves it away from the backstops. Makes a big difference especially with large cants. Like MM says, the 2 plane clamp takes a little finesse, it really ain't a "pull this lever and the cant will roll over". Once you get the hang of it, it's a very nice piece of equipment.

[backwoods sawyer]

As they have stated above it is moment to moment as to which lever to grab.
I have the chain turner and us it to pull the cant a couple inches from the backstops, raise it all the way up, if the cant will balance, then place the clamp under the cant and lower the chain turner this will start the cant to standing up. The clamp may need moved in or out or even jog the chain turner a bit to help stand it up, just don't pinch the cant.

[Dave Shepard]

Sometimes, if the cant will balance on the clamp, I'll lift it up and move towards the backstops, and then raise up and move the clamp away. The momentum of the cant will tip it off the clamp. Another thing you can try is to lift the cant up with the clamp and move it away from the backstops, and then lift on the outside edge. If the cant is too close to the backstops it can bind up, driving the clamp into the cant. I will sometimes have to roll big cants by hand, if I'm making timbers, as I cant risk gouging them up.