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Off w/ the Screw Clamps,, On W/ the Cam Clamps

Started by robnrob2, February 03, 2010, 08:10:42 AM

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robnrob2

Well now that I have the hydrolic feed working well, and the board return is an added plus, I still had the screw type clamps for securing the logs,, and they worked as expected, but you gotta wind them in to hold the log, and when done un-wind them, which may only seam like a few seconds or so each way, but as the day wears on you do start to realize how much time you spend, turning and then turning again,,

 

There were 3 like this, that actually needed to go,, there are really 4 but the one I kept doesnt get used much, it's down at the front of the mill for doing short stuff as short as 24-30",, hobbiest wood..

Heres another one.


,, After much, much studying this style, and looking at lots of pictures and stuff,  Here all the parts ,,
All the parts have been fabricated, painted and assembled,
Since the original clamps are of 1 1/2' square tubing, I used 1/4 x 1 1/2" faltbar for the main body,, The cam was cut from 1" round bar, 1" long and a 5/16" hole drilled way off center,, the handle is 1/2" round bar cut at 6 1/2" long,, the clamping bar is 1" square tubing cut at 6" long w/ 1" x 3/4" bar for the spike and welded on top.



Welded on,,Now the new cam clamp has been added, works very nicely, and actually has much more clamping force then you really need.,, in fact thiis photo half clamped,, the handle will go all the way down.



closer up,,



I reckon as time goes on I may some day  as the pocket book allows, do a hydrolic clamp and truner,,


bandmiller2

Good job Rob,What does that cam assy. slide on at its base.Does it slide on square tube and bind when you cam it??Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

TJB

I like those!!!  I think I need to upgrade to a set of them.
TJ
TJ Brown
www.tjswoodshop.com

robnrob2

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 03, 2010, 08:59:33 PM
Good job Rob,What does that cam assy. slide on at its base.Does it slide on square tube and bind when you cam it??Frank C.

Thats it  the square tubing is 1" and so is the cam,, so it mainly pushes or applies the preasure on the 2 corners,, I thought about sliding a piece of 1/6" or 1/8"  in there and letting it slide on that, but we'll see how it wears,, I did put a spot of grease on it before use..
Thanks Robert

Magicman

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kelLOGg

Quote from: robnrob2 on February 03, 2010, 08:10:42 AM
but you gotta wind them in to hold the log, and when done un-wind them, which may only seam like a few seconds or so each way, but as the day wears on you do start to realize how much time you spend, turning and then turning again

I have the same frustration - what a well executed solution and good workmanship. That will be my next sawmill mod. 8)
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

bandmiller2

Everything on a mill should be quick and easy to operate,if something is owkward hard to reach or just not handy you tend to not use it.Screws are ok if they have a fast forward like a half nut so all you need is one twist to tighten.Alot of circular mill dogging systems work well on a bandmill just lay them down,such as the Belsaw clamps.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

kelLOGg

How much throw do you have on the clamp?  (or how far does the spike travel?). I'm making my own after your idea and am trying to decide just how much I need. (I tried to PM you but it got kicked back).
Thanks,
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

robnrob2

Quote from: kelLOGg on February 10, 2010, 12:47:03 PM
How much throw do you have on the clamp?  (or how far does the spike travel?)

Well I just went out and measured it, the throw, and it is a good 1 1/4"  and leme tell ya, ya dont need that much,, I didnt consider throw, I just wanted to make sure it worked,, so with the piece of 1" round bar, I  1st drilled a 1/4" pilot near the edge, but with plenty of room to redrill to 5/16 and not be to close to the edge,,when I welded the handle on, as the whole assembly was just loosely sbolted together, and on the bench, I rotated the cam till it was just past center, and then glued, er welded the handle on,,  You cannot lock these if you ram them up against a log or cant,, to much throw,, so we actually have to pull back a lil bit,,,But I would say I think more throw is better then not enough,,

Now my bottom clamps,, you know the ones,, the ones ya use when you wanna cut down to within 1",, there a screw type,,they will be next, but on those I have to have a lil bit different handle config, as those bottom clamps slide on a 1" round bar, and the handle cannot hit the round bar slide,,

kelLOGg

I drilled a 3/8" pivot hole for my 1" cam and got a little more than a 1" throw. I think I will go with that. I can change the cam easily if its necessary to to get more throw but I don't I will need it.

I think my spike shape (1/2" x 2") will allow me to use the same spike for the last cut but that remaine to be seen.

Thanks,

Bob


Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

papow22

I would have applied that to "the useful sawmill mods".Nice idea even though. ;)
Lives to do sawdust,run a trapline,hunt big game,live life to it's most.Got 4 mills a circle mill,(2 band sawmills) Norwood's 2000, Trim Saw,Beam Machine (chainsaw mill).

coastlogger

hopm could you explain the railroad spike thing a bit more. Sounds like something I could use.
clgr

brewdog

would like to see what its sliding on[bottom]  thanks

kelLOGg

Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Kbeitz

I made mine really different. I used part of a rack and pinion.
I only used the the rack. with a slide almost like the picture above.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Quebecnewf

KelLoGg

Anywhere one could buy the one like you made. My long clamp slides on a one inch round rod as the the one you made but it is screw type . While it works fine and I have used it for many years (25) I would switch to the lever type if I could get one . I don't do any welding so fabbing one up myself is not an option .

Know of any mills that come with type of long clamp maybe I could buy one from them .

Thanks Quebecnewf

kelLOGg

I looked on CookSaw web page under sawmill videos and found this:

https://youtu.be/MN6GGqWnEbs

It's similar to what Robnrob2 and I made.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

kelLOGg

oops, I didn't know I posted the whole video. Skip to 30:50 minutes to see the clamp.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Ljohnsaw

When I made my mill, I made these (though both had a longer section of 2" x ¼" tube).

 

 

But they are a bit difficult to use.  So when I found this thread, I knew what I wanted to do!  So here is the replacement:

 

 

There is about 1" of throw.  If I decide I need more, I can lower the cam closer to the spike pivot.  The bolt are 5/16" Grade 8.  Note the bright orange so it is easier to aim the blade...
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

kelLOGg

Nice work - post a pic when they are installed, too.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: kelLOGg on December 14, 2017, 07:29:18 AM
Nice work - post a pic when they are installed, too.
Bob
Alas, it might not be until June or July when the snow clears. :-\ :-\
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Alberta Wolf

Quote from: Quebecnewf on April 18, 2017, 04:41:07 AM
KelLoGg

Anywhere one could buy the one like you made. My long clamp slides on a one inch round rod as the the one you made but it is screw type . While it works fine and I have used it for many years (25) I would switch to the lever type if I could get one . I don't do any welding so fabbing one up myself is not an option .

Know of any mills that come with type of long clamp maybe I could buy one from them .

Thanks Quebecnewf
Your close to Norwood's sawmill,check with them maybe you will see what they have.Also they made a new saw mill called OS27 Frontier. 

daltonhawk

I really like the robnrob2's design, especially the way the log stop and clamp are at the same height and rotate together. I think this would help me notice before I saw into the log stop, since I operate the mill from the clamp side. I made the first assembly and put it on but the problem I ran into is that the cam seems prone to 'backing off'. I get it good and tight, but if I wiggle it, the handle lifts back up and the clamp loosens. I added the spring in the picture and it seems like it could work fine like that but it's less elegant. It doesn't seem like anyone else needed a spring so I'm wondering what I did wrong?

 

 

 

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: daltonhawk on November 15, 2021, 02:55:29 PMI'm wondering what I did wrong?
The secret is to make the cam that goes "over center".  Go up and look really close at mine and you can make out where the lobe is the greatest in relation to the pivot bolt.  When you push my handle down, the cam forces the spike forward.  It gets to maximum movement but there is still a little way for the handle to go down (another inch or so).  Doing that, the cam goes over the center point and the resistance from the log (pressure on the spike) wants to drive the cam further around in the same direction (and the handle down) so there is no way it can come lose.

You can fix yours by bending the rebar up right at the cam, probably about a 30° angle.  There might not be enough room in the slot for it, though.  So, probably cut it off and go further up the cam as shown in the last picture.  I the rebar stout enough for the clamping action?  I use some 1/2" cold rolled.  There are times I push down pretty hard and I would think that rebar would bend.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

daltonhawk

Quote from: ljohnsaw on November 15, 2021, 03:36:39 PMThe secret is to make the cam that goes "over center".
Ah, OK. I was wondering if that might be the case. From the pictures I didn't realize that's what you did. Thanks for pointing it out. I'll fix this one and then make another one.

Quote from: ljohnsaw on November 15, 2021, 03:36:39 PMIs the rebar stout enough for the clamping action? 
It seems to be. It's #4 which is 1/2" so it's fairly stout, at least over a short length. I have a bunch of short scraps so I decided to use them.


Ljohnsaw

Looking again at yours, when clamped, it appears that you have another ¼ turn of the cam to lock it up. 

On my clamp, I put a long beak on the top.  I do a lot of cedar that has very deep bark with furrows.  I found it necessary to make them like that so I can get a good hold of solid wood.  When my handles are straight up, the clamp can go back the maximum and the beak is still sticking past the vertical post.  That also lets me get over any bumps in the log that would otherwise interfere with clamping.  Just something to consider.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

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