please dont laugh

[snaponman1526]

hello everyone. i am new to this forum and quite honestly the farthest thing from a logger. Im an automotive technician by trade and do excavating on the side. All my tree experiences involved an excavator with a thumb. Push the tree over with stump attatched. pick up the whole mess cut off the stump and branches and then cut up the trunk. I would like to learn how to cut a tree and manipulate it to fall where desired without a machine. It is truley an artform, and more involved than cutting and hammering in a wedge. If this is a beaten subject does anyone have a link i can view. any help is grately appreciated. I watched an old timer cut down an enormous oak tree with a few wedges and drop it where he said he would. i know he made 3 or 4 cuts and used 3 wedges....what an awesome display. thanks guys

[Bobus2003]

I cut almost all Of my Trees (6"-30" Diameter) with three cuts. I first look at the tree and determine the if the tree has lean, Where i want it too go and which side has the most branches (Uneven Branch makes one side heavier than the other). I make a Single Flat Cut about 1/2 way through the tree on the Side of the tree in which I want the tree to fall. I then make a Angled Cut from 1"-1.5" Below the First Cut, meeting the First Cut near the back of the first Cut. The Size and Shape of the Wedge will Determine the Final Direction of the tree. I then start the Back-cut and cut slowly watching the tree to make sure its falling the proper direction and to make adjustments to the hinge wood to manipulate the fall direction that much more.

I'm sure someone else will be able to tell you what i do wrong and the proper way to do it, or a differnt way of doing it

[Dave Shepard]

Welcome snaponman! There's a ton of experienced people here to help you. Don't watch any Expert Village Youtubes. ;)

[timber tramp]

   What part of the country are you in?  Maybe there's a forum member close to you who could offer some instruction.
   I personally wish more people would ask questions about falling trees before they go try it themselves. Could probably prevent a few accidents and injuries,  not to mention property damage. Good luck and be careful.                TT     

[beenthere]

Welcome to the forum. You should like it here.  That is the one thing we don't do, is laugh.

;D ;D

The FF has several members who have taken the GOL (game of logging) which gives good basic information and training to veterans as well as newbie tree cutters. Several more are professional fallers of big trees out west, and many are loggers who cut full time in both hardwoods and softwoods.

There are some great illustrations of making the first wedge cut, and following that with back cuts that can be either plunge cuts or just coming in from the back to make the hinge that gives directional fall to the tree. Many things to consider, such as tree lean, if you need to fall the tree at an angle to that lean, and where the weight of the tree is in the top (that may affect the direction of fall).

Member Kevin is one of several who has good illustrations and pics of falling trees.

Help us out with more of your needs, and equipment you have, and ideas will come forth to respond to your questions.

[Ianab]

This is a guide good beginners guide to felling trees. Put out by OSH here in New Zealand.

If covers the basics, larger trees, leaners and the common hazards to watch for. Even gets into bore cutting and bucking trees that may be under tension.

http://www.osh.govt.nz/order/catalogue/pdf/treefell.pdf

It doesn't make up for a proper training course, but it's WAY better then just cutting blind and hoping ;)
It will at least explain exactly how your 'oldtimer' friend dropped the tree.

While some of the members are pro loggers or arborists, many of us are woodworkers, farmers, firewood cutters and various other amature tree cutters, and we all had to start learning someplace.

Asking a basic question is better than going out and getting hurt because you dont know what you are doing.  ;)

Ian

[islandlogger]

Trying to tell or teach a person how to fell a tree via a thread is pretty hard. Each falling job is different, every tree is unique, there are so many variables and factors at play and so many things to evaluate. My best advice is to research what books there are out there to get the general idea in your head and then find someone with the experience that is willing to work with you and be hands on and remember saftety is what keeps us getting up the next day and make sure you got your tin hat on!!

Best of luck and welcome to the forum!

islandlogger

[Chuck White]

All good info here, but don't forget to figure in the wind.
If the wind is blowing it can be the deciding factor on which way the tree is going to fall.

[snaponman1526]

well thanks guys your welcomes seem sincere. I am 24 years old and live in northeast pa, actually tri state area where nj, ny, and pa meet. I recently bought a new husky 372xp which replaced a stihl av029. I cut about 8 cord a year for fuel during the winter for myself and about the same for my old man and mother. again i work for a dealership so fixing stuff aint a problem. I also do excavating on the side with a komatsu pc200 and a smaller john deere 110. The reason i want to learn how to fall a tree properly is b.c i seem to damage more trees with pushing it over with the machine. thanks fellas

[thecfarm]

Have you ever cut a standing tree down? There is a lot to it,including safety gear.ALOT can go wrong quick,even if a person thinks he knows what he's doing.You could following me around for a month and get real good at felling trees,but one little thing that you missed could hurt you.The GOL is a real good bet for you.Well worth the money.

[moonhill]

Just one tip shown to me was to cut the angled cut first, you can look down this cut as you cut the bottom cut of the wedged section so as not to cut into the hinge.  I don't cut very far into the trunk for the wedge, a 1/4 at most usually less.  What is the correct depth for the wedge cut?  

The GOL sound like a  beneficial course. 

Tim

[islandlogger]

I have never seen this Game Of Logging but sounds like some folks here think it's a good thing so may be worth you looking into. When I first got into Loggin a old timer told me to go a buy D. Douglas Dents book Professional Timber Falling, it follows the simple and the complex and stresses the safety aspects very well. Baileys used to sell it, if not you can get it online...

islandlogger

[celliott]

maybe you should get a felling head for your excavator ??? 8)

[SouthernVT LawnLogger]

Boy a felling head would be nice for a excavator...  haha  i would say get onto the GOL Game of Logging web site and look around great resources on the web site.  there are multiple courses from designing logging roads to running fowarders, to learning how to fell your first tree for home owners.  i was on the web site the other day and it was so many good resources to look through.  try your hand.  another thing about felling trees is practice makes you better... on a day to day basis im trying to get better aswell..  kyle Zecher

[poor farmer/logger]

I dont usually try to direct a tree in any one direction but if the ocasion calls for it I can usually get it to where I want it. Here's what I do.

I make a wedge cut in the direction that I want the tree to fall. Usually a 1/4 to a 1/3 of the way threw. Then I go around and start my cut on the other side of the tree with the tip of the bar cuting threw the wedge cut that I just made for the first little bit. As I get to the other side I bring the saw around so it's on the opposite side of the wedge cut leaving some left so it will help pull the tree in the direction that I want it to go. Clear as mud?? Like others said it's a little hard to explain as it can very quite a bit. I've never used wedges though. If I was working in close proximity to some buildings though I would. Unless I had the skidder right there. Then I use it to help push the tree in the direction that I want it while felling. If you had some portection on the hoe you could do the same with it as well.

Just a couple of things to watch out for though while felling. Kick back can hapen very quickly. Least that's what I call it. That's when the tree starts to go down and slides back on the stump towards you. Also the tree can roll as it comes down off the stump. Probably the two biggest things that pop into my head right now. Lots of other dangers involved though so be careful. I've had my fare share of close calls but so far knock on wood have come home every night unscaved.

When we start logging again I can maybe take a couple of pictures of what I'm doing to direct a tree. Course with my luck it'll go the opposite way of what I wanted to fell it for the pictures..lol.. And yes it does hapen from time to time.

Ryan

[woodmills1]

snapon  I grew up in newton nj

there is a member here near stillwater who runs a sawmill but I can't remember is screen name i think ________45?

try to get some hands on tree felling instruction as words are not enough and much can happen quick even with smaller trees.

[woodmills1]

sawyerfortyish?

[hollywoodmfg]

Do your self a favor and check out GOL . IT is the best thing ive seen for somebody starting out or some one that is experienced.

[bill m]

GOL training is worth the money. If you wanted to drive to Mass. ( 3 hrs from Winterdale) I would spend a day teaching you tree felling. As for the depth of the notch do not cut half way into the tree. Make the notch just deep enough to get a hinge width of 80 % of the dbh of the tree. Thickness of the hinge should be 10% of the dbh. Every tree is different. The type of wood and if it is frozen or not will make a difference on how well it will hinge. When you look at a tree you must determine where you want to put it and can it go in that direction, does it have a front lean, back lean or side lean. Is it all sound wood where you will be making the notch? Are there any hazards to be concerned with ( nearby dead trees, entanglement with other trees or vines, hanging limbs etc.). Plan your escape route and make sure it is clear. This is just the beginning. There is much more to consider before you even make the first cut. And above all else BE SAFE!

[Engineer]

I've taken an abbreviated GOL 1-4, taught by a former GOL instructor where I was his only student.  It's worth the time and effort to go through at least the first two, and preferably all four.  I learned more in that class than in 25 years of being self-taught in the woods.  You do have to keep an open mind, especially if you have a lot of experience, that the GOL methods are NOT always the best methods.  Each tree is different and each situation is different, and only experience will tell you what to do.  In the case of having little or no experience dropping trees, the best thing you can do is find someone local who can help and teach you how to do it the right way.  GOL is certainly a good way to do it.

I won't tell you here how to drop a tree.  It's like trying to describe a Picasso to a kindergartener.  You have to get the education and experience.  Even watching someone else do it is highly beneficial. 

[icolquhoun]

I'm in northern jersey and would be willing to barter tree felling instruction for excavation work :D

I use the soren eriksen method (GOL) for 99% of the trees I have dropped since learning it.For what it's worth, I wouldn't even consider starting until having a helmet/hearing/eye protection, good chaps, gloves, and properly tuned/sharpened saw, as well as (2) felling wedges and a means of hammering them in (I use the back of a felling axe)

Shoot me a PM

[beenthere]

For setting wedges, I just cut a 3' length of oak (or whatever) stick that is about 2" diam. Makes a good club and can just leave it lay when done. Saves lugging an extra tool around from tree to tree.  ;D   Yep, I'm lazy. I carry two wedges and the chainsaw. Wear the gear.

Highly recommend the GOL course. 

[Hilltop366]

Can't be lazy your cutting wood with a chainsaw.

[nedly05]

I took GOL 1 and 2 this past summer. I had wanted to take it for a long time, and jumped at it when I got the chance. I highly reccomend it. I am cutting in my fathers sugarbush right now, taking down dead stuff and thinning. Using the GOL techniques I can fall my trees pretty precisely and reduce damage to the residual stand. PM me if you want and I will get you the instructors contact info. He lives in Binghamton so I bet he teaches near you for sure.

[nedly05]

Oh yeah, you have a PC 200 and a 110 deere and you only run them as a side gig? you must stay pretty busy!! is the 110 the excavator 110 or the mini backhoe 110? We need to see some pics of this equipment! 8)