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Shaft Failure

Started by Russ, October 02, 2003, 08:24:14 PM

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Russ

any ideas?
I replaced these with good old american parts !!
worth the money, with less vibration
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biziedizie

  Have you thought about buying new ones??? ;D ;D The hotglue gun won't work too good on them shafts :D :D ;)


      Steve

woodhaven

Looks like a peice of pipe with concrete in the center.
Richard

solidwoods

What mill is that off of, and what the heck happened?
JIM
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

Russ

This is the shaft the 19" bandwheels run on my band sawmill. I declinded the offer of warranteed replacement parts. The new timkin bearings have less vibration , and the blades are lasting longer too. I don't know how I could put enough tension on the blade to snap a 1&1/2 inch solid steel shaft . This thing is a sawmill not a cheese slicer, so there it is . I'm going to replace the chineese bandwheels too.[/url]

D._Frederick

Russ,
Did the bearings fail causing the shaft to break?

Russ

I'm not sure, but they did make the blade move alittle to much. The bandwheels cracked also. I think the movement made the blade wear out early too. If you kept the grease gun right on them it helped some. You got to figure a $65 bearing is better than a $15 one. Maybe the shaft had a deffect in it ? I like this sawmill and now its better ![/url]

Mark M

Russ - can you post a picture showing a closeup of the fracture? I've had some training in failure analysis and might be able to offer some ideas.

Mark

D._Frederick

Russ,
Did you by chance, over grease the ball bearings, causing the spiders that space the balls in the race to be destroyed? If you are using  your mill 40 hrs per week, a couple of pumps of grease, once a week is enough.

AtLast

What brand mill did that come off of?

Jeff

In years past we use to loose Husk Arbor bearings on a regular basis. One a year at least at 250 bucks a pop plus a days down time. I always greased at the factory recommended level of 2 or 3 pumps every 10 hours of operation.  I started greasing more. This resulted in a higher frequency of failure. I now go by temp. anytime I have shut the saw down after a saw run, I lift the gaurd and feel the bearing with my hand. If its anything more then luke warm I watch it closer. These bearings have not been greased this year yet and I can only remember greasing them once last year. They are on thier 3rd year of operation.

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Russ

I read the manual saying that most bearings fail because of over greasing. I give about 3 pumps when I change the blade. I started greasing alittle more when the blades started poping off. The extra grease seemed to tighten the bearings alittle.I was kind of glad when the shaft broke because it forced me to fix the problem. I use a torque wrench to adjust the blade and with the new bearing I use 10 ft lbs less pressure withh no blade flutter . It sounds like I'm still using alittle to much grease. My machinest said the shaft had a defect in it. Funny it was the idler side that broke. It lasted about 15,000 bf.
Note to self ....Grease less.....

dutchman

I work in the tool and die business,and had to replace a shaft on my mill.
The cracked shaft was from metal fatique.
I used soft A 2 tool steel to make a new shaft. I'll pull the specs on the shaft hardness,but 38 - 40 Rockwell comes to mind. It's been on the mill for about 2 years, shows no wear.

dutchman

KURT_STURZ

Russ you are correct that over greasing can be worse than under greasing. Over greasing causes the bearings to plow through the grease creating over heating, bearing fatigue and failure. We had to replace our main drive shaft on our mill this year. We were going through pillow blocks every two months at $125.00 a shot. Come to find out the shaft was worn .030 at the main bearing causing slipage and heat. I work at a metal shop and our tool room guy made a new 1.500 dia stainless steel shaft complete with keys and keyways. Put it back together with new bearing and WALA! everything is all better. Bearings are all cool and runs like a charm. There's always something you have to watch for. Machines are like women. You have to play with them sometimes for a long time to get them to do what you want.
Kurt
Kurt Sturzenbecker

Russ

Super advice ! I'm getting more bf from my blades also . Nice to find out I'm not the only one who had this problem. I still think a $15 bearing made in china isn't going to give the service a $65 one made in usa is goinng to give. The smoother you can get that blade to run the less fatige you get all around. The receipt I have descibes it a 1 1/2 X36" keyed shaft 09-115 w 3/8 . Don't know how hard that would make it. I could probably use some advice on replacement bandwheels also. I like the sulfok tires as I use keosene to lub the blade, cuts the pitch.

Jason_WI

Two words can describe your shaft breakage. Chinese Steel.....

JUNK!!!!!!!!!

There are hard spots in chinese steel that when stressed will almost shatter like glass. I have cut chinese steel on my lathe and there will be spots that will cut like butter and then there will be spots that will smoke the HHS cobalt bit all within a 6" piece. I think they melt down anything they find and ship it to the US by the boatload.

Jason
Norwood LM2000, 20HP Honda, 3 bed extentions. Norwood Edgemate edger. Gehl 4835SXT

Russ


Swede

Cheap Chineese bearings (grade C3) is OK for low speed.

Take the big wallet in Your pocket and ask a proffessional dealer for the right bearing. I don´t remember right know the right grade.

Swede.
Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

cluckerplucker

 dont just badmouth the slant eyes , I just went fri and piked up new bearing from (APPLIED TECH) AND THAY WERE MADE IN FRANCE .I would al most bet that timkon is made in mapl;e land now.   cecil
cecil

Russ

The label said made in  Tennesse .

slowzuki

Since we live in multi-national society I won't get too much into why this is inappropriate. >:(  Chinese can manufacture good bearings too, but why pay to ship a good bearing all the way over here.  We only see the cheap ones.  Regarding made in France, much of the high-quality bearing production is in europe, they've been at it longer than anyone else.

An thanks, as you notice I live in "maple land" and we make some pretty high quality stuff, it isn't a third world country when you cross the border :D.  Most of the good bearings available here come from germany or Japan though.

Quote from: cluckerplucker on February 07, 2004, 03:58:20 PM
dont just badmouth the slant eyes , I just went fri and piked up new bearing from (APPLIED TECH) AND THAY WERE MADE IN FRANCE .I would al most bet that timkon is made in mapl;e land now.   cecil

MrMoo

Last summer I replaced the bearings in one of my blade guide rollers. The bearing I got from Applied Tech were made in the good ol US of A. Kind of surprised me when I opened the box.

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