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Joist hanger installation advice needed

Started by Brad_bb, January 12, 2010, 04:21:46 PM

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Brad_bb

Ok, I'm looking to get back to and try and finish my barn end renovation.  I need to install ceiling joists on the lower part of the truss going out to the walls to hang sheetmetal and vapor seal and insulate (the tin roof will be cold).  My question is - Can I used screws instead of joist nails?  I ask for a couple of reasons.  First, ease of installation.  Using my cordless impactor is much easier than trying to swing a hammer up on the scaffold in this cold.  Second, the old truss is pretty dry (been south facing and open air for 20 years) and I'd prefer to pre-drill and screw to make sure I don't have any issues.  Any recommendation for 1.5" screws?  I was thinking of contacting Fastenmaster (Timberloks etc) and seeing what they recommend?  Something with a square drive or similar I'm thinking.  I have about 100 hangers to hang.  Thanks, Brad

This is the truss.  The end wall is actually 2X6 framed now with a nailer/ledger board inline with the bottom of the truss.  So I need to run my joists from the truss to the end wall and from the truss to the inside wall.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Fla._Deadheader


What about self tapping screws ???  Don't strip them, and, shear strength is what you are really after, Correct ???  One tool, easy to install ???
All truth passes through three stages:
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   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

TreeWinder

Yes you can use  special screws, check with the codes in your area.  I used these on a new house:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/screws.asp
Ed
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Raider Bill

Quote from: TreeWinder on January 12, 2010, 06:36:29 PM
Yes you can use  special screws, check with the codes in your area.  I used these on a new house:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/screws.asp

That is what I used when building the Tenn house. I hate those short joist hanger nails or more to the point my thumb hates them.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

tomsteve

     there is a nail gun made specifically for joist hanger nails and it wood be even faster than screwing. i was just wonderin iffen ya might have a tool rental store by you that has one. they're called a positive placement nailer, at least that is what my old one was called.

ljmathias

Don't know if it's an option for you or not- pretty expensive- but I bought one of the Bostich nail guns designed for use with metal fasteners.  I used it for hurricane ties on the bottom and top of the walls I just built- it has the nail protrude just a bit so you can insert it into the hole in the metal, then pull the trigger and BAM! a perfectly nailed joist hanger, tie down, strap, whatever... short nails, about 11/2" or 2" as I recall (memory ain't so good anymore- and that was at least 6 months ago!).  Anyway, it's fast and efficient and allows you to hang the joist hangers one-handed without swinging a hammer (yeah, my thumb hates those also, but only the one on my left hand...)

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

Norm

I've got the bostich joist hanger air nailer that I've furred out two mortons with. Much faster than screws or a palm nailer.

Brad_bb

Well initially I was looking for a joist nailer on the web and only found a $300+ one.  Now thanks to you guys I see on ebay several different ones.  There is a factory reman'd Bostich one for $169, or a new Senco one  for $99.  Is it a get what you pay for deal? 

I also looked at my local big box stores and checked a local rental place for joist nailer and neither carried one, nor the paper tape metal connector nails.  Looks like I can get them on ebay though.
I was a bit concerned nailing by hand give that the truss is very dry SYP.

I'm assuming that I have to alter the bracket location no the truss so that bracket nails don't end up hitting each other from opposite sides, right?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

beenthere

Brad_bb

I'd suggest finding out if the lower chord of those trusses are designed for joists (if I interpret what you plan to do). I'm of the impression they are not designed to carry a load. They mainly hold the ends together. But they look pretty substantial, so maybe a ceiling is part of the design.

Just a thought, so you don't bring the bldg down.  :o
south central Wisconsin
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tomsteve

There is a factory reman'd Bostich one for $169, or a new Senco one  for $99.  Is it a get what you pay for deal? 

i have used senco guns quite a bit and cant say as i recall any problems with them.


ScottAR

I've used both brands Bostich and Senco they both good.
I'd buy the one I could get nails for the easiest.

The next project that requires more than half a dozen
hangers or so, I will have one of those nailers.
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

SamB

Based on what I see in the picture I'm guessing this was a professionally designed package building by someone that sells pole buildings. Looks like the spacing on the trusses is at least 6 ft. which would raise the same question in my mind as Beenthere has stated, is this safe? I'd go back to the designer for consultation before I'd hang the weight of a metal ceiling and 2x6 joists on what's there, especially when you're in snow country.
It is a practice and recommendation of the suppliers in this area to place a layer of foam insulation between the metal and roof purlins, this prevents condensation on the underside of the metal.  Just another opinion for consideration my only accreditation comes from personal experience and the school of hard knocks.  :)

Brad_bb

Yes, not a bad idea, Morton building.  I think it will be fine, but it's always good to check.  Now if I can get any useful response from them.  Not good experience from my local Morton guy in the recent past for responsiveness or courtesy. 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Norm

After having 3 Morton's done myself I can tell you that they have built the last one for me.

Not sure how old yours are but when I asked if it was ok to hang sheet rock off the trusses I was told they would handle it. I ran 2X4's on 2' centers between them without any problems.

Brad_bb

 I emailed Morton corporate today and their local guy called me this evening.  He said he's going to be in my area tomorrow and will stop by to look at it.  Shocked me because he's the same local guy that I have been frustrated with in the last two dealings earlier this year.  We'll see if he shows up like he said.  I don't hold my breath on things like this. 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

HOOF-ER

Brad , I think my nailer is a PH33 Bostitch it is a standard paper tape nailer. It has the standard spiked framing nail end. Also included when it was purchased was a positive placement tip. Just squeeze the adjustment buttons and slide one off and then slide the other on. Down side is the positive placement nails are about $45 per box(small box). The neat thing is not needing a special nailer. Works great ,use it to frame decks.
Home built swing mill, 27hp Kawasaki

Brad_bb

Thanks, I'll check into that nailer. 

The morton guy stopped by right on time today.  Was very nice and eager to help.  Big change from earlier last year.  He got the engineer on the phone and talked.  They think 2X6 joists on 2'centers will be ok for this truss, but they are also going to pull the building speces(from the 80's) and check that truss and let me know for sure.  He said they typically just screw the sheetmetal to the trusses and blow insulation over it.  Problem for me with that, as I discussed with him, is you cannot go up and walk on that if you need to work up there.  Like if you need to add a vent  or whatever.  I want the joists so I can lay a board over them to walk up there if I ever need to.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Larry

Quote from: Brad_bb on January 14, 2010, 02:01:38 PM
He said they typically just screw the sheetmetal to the trusses and blow insulation over it. 

That's what I've always done but my trusses were on 4' centers.  Could you build a catwalk from one end to the other?
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

OneWithWood

I too screwed the metal directly to the trusses and then rolled bat insulation between the trusses.  I laid a course of boards accross the top of the truss to serve as a walkway when I need to be up there.  Works well as long as you don't stand up straight suddenly  smiley_dizzy
One With Wood
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