Chainsaw bar cleaner handle

LorenB · December 22, 2009, 05:54:24 PM

Do you have one of those hookie tools to clean out the groove on your chainsaw's bar? Does it look like this?

Do you have trouble holding on to it as you try to pull it through the groove? Put a handle on it. Here's how.

Buy a screw-on handle from a tool or farm store. I got a General #890 from a local farm store.

Insert the groove cleaning tool into the handle and tighten it down.

That was easy, wasn't it? I paid $6.31 plus tax for the handle and it was worth every penny.

-- Loren

CX3 · December 22, 2009, 10:06:46 PM

Or you could use the screwdriver end of your saw wrench?

wi woodcutter · December 22, 2009, 10:12:44 PM

Quote from: CX3 on December 22, 2009, 10:06:46 PM
Or you could use the screwdriver end of your saw wrench?

That is what I do.

Rocky_J · December 22, 2009, 11:45:27 PM

I use an old 1.5" putty knife I bought from Home Depot about 10 years ago. I think it was about $3. Works great, I can scrape the crud off the outside of the bar as well as clean the groove. The screwdriver/scrench doesn't fit all the way down into the groove.

miking · December 23, 2009, 05:14:43 PM

Quote from: CX3 on December 22, 2009, 10:06:46 PM
Or you could use the screwdriver end of your saw wrench?

Mine doesn't get all the way to the bottom of the bar groove. I use a tool similar to the OP's that also cleans out the oiler hole well.

chucker · December 23, 2009, 05:36:41 PM

i found this old tool in a dime store about 20 years ago .. its called an old timer pocket knife??? dont know where they ever came from but work very well !! fits in the pocket and has 3 blades it also comes in handy for removing slivers or cleaning pitch out from under the nails! and just as you think you have seen it all it peels apples to eat. cost around 5 bucks at that time.... what a wonder tool ... every woodsman should have one as well as a hankey in their pocket....

Ironwood · December 23, 2009, 07:01:55 PM

I have a thick piece of steel banding w/ a customized end. VERY cheap.

Ironwood

LeeB · December 23, 2009, 07:32:47 PM

I don't suppose an old peice of band blade would work would it? I got plenty of broken blades.

Rocky_J · December 23, 2009, 07:41:38 PM

Lee, that will prolly work just fine. Years ago I used to snap a tine off a leaf rake when I had to clean a bar on the jobsite.

LeeB · December 23, 2009, 07:44:09 PM

Not meaning to sound like a total d.a., but i have never cleaned my bar as such. How often should this be done?

Rocky_J · December 23, 2009, 07:58:02 PM

Just whenever you have the bar off the saw anyway, to flip the bar or replace the chain. I like having the putty knife because I knock the crud off the foot of the bar so it doesn't get sandwiched in against the saw when I put it back together. And I scrape out the groove so the oil can flow around the bar easier.

LorenB · December 23, 2009, 09:30:44 PM

Quote from: LeeB on December 23, 2009, 07:32:47 PM
I don't suppose an old peice of band blade would work would it? I got plenty of broken blades.

I'm sure that a piece of a band blade would work. It would probably work better if you ground a hook on the end of it. Maybe you could even use a tooth.

The tool I use (pictured above) is sold in different gauges so you can get exactly the right one for your bar. The one shown is for a 0.050" gauge. If your bands are the right thickness, you could probably go into business making these things, although they don't sell for much. I'm sure my handle cost more than the tool itself.

The nice thing about this tool is that it fills the groove and so it cleans well. With the handle it's even easy to use.

-- Loren

Ironwood · December 23, 2009, 09:58:53 PM

Not to sound like to D.A. either, but do you guys pump some grease into the end bearing on the tip? I try to do that and flip the bar. I usually run a belt sander to remove any burrs off the sides as well (you usually get a burr on the bottom side of the bar, right?)

Ironwood

Cut4fun · December 23, 2009, 09:59:23 PM

I never had a problem without handle like the one OP posted and all mine came for free.

Rocky_J · December 23, 2009, 10:21:44 PM

No Ironwood, I have never nor will I ever grease a bar tip. IMO the problem is that the grease only helps for about 10 minutes and by then it has spun out of the bearings and just becomes a dirt trap around the tip sprocket. Stihl quit putting grease holes on their pro bar tips years ago, the rest keep putting them there because they are expected. Bar lube keeps the tip sprocket well lubricated and a good blast from an air nozzle once in a while to get the tip spinning like a top will fling out all the built up crud and keep the bearings running smooth.

Grease doesn't hurt the tip, but the after affects from greasing may very well lead to premature failure due to having that sticky sand trap globbed around the bar tip.

nmurph · December 23, 2009, 10:30:46 PM

i just use the carb screwdriver that is always in my chaps. the screwdriver-end of my scrench is too large for a .50 bar.

ickirby · December 23, 2009, 11:09:25 PM

Quote from: Ironwood on December 23, 2009, 09:58:53 PM
...do you guys pump some grease into the end bearing on the tip?...

The two schools of thought I have heard on this both make sense to me.

Thought 1:

Quote from: Rocky_J on December 23, 2009, 10:21:44 PM
...I have never nor will I ever grease a bar tip.IMO the problem is that the grease only helps for about 10 minutes and by then it has spun out of the bearings and just becomes a dirt trap around the tip sprocket.

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Thought 2:
If you are going to grease it do it all the time so you keep the grease as fresh as possible.

I personally grease mine all the time now, mostly because I'm using my saws as demo saws while teaching chainsaw safety and maintenance to people who otherwise would not even know the sprocket was greaseable (or cleanable or even present some times for that matter). I have run bars happily without greasing them for their entire life and have never once regretted it.

Your choice, I'd just avoid greasing infrequently.

Rocky_J · December 23, 2009, 11:16:15 PM

Well said, Kirby. 8)

LorenB · December 23, 2009, 11:17:19 PM

I second ickirby's opinion.

A while back I got a lecture on chainsaw maintenance. The instructor said either keep it greased or never grease it.

If you never grease it, it won't tend to collect crud that will wear out the sprocket and bearing. If you keep it greased, it will always have clean grease. If you grease it occasionally, it will collect dust that will grind the sprocket and bearing up.

That sounded like good advice. I now grease mine every fill up.

-- Loren

sharkey · December 24, 2009, 02:56:09 AM

Geez Im cheaper than all of you guys, I use a broken hacksaw blade to clean the wood chips out of the bar groove.

Merry Christmas everyone!

LorenB · December 24, 2009, 09:22:22 AM

Quote from: sharkey on December 24, 2009, 02:56:09 AM
Geez Im cheaper than all of you guys, I use a broken hacksaw blade to clean the wood chips out of the bar groove.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Sharkey,

You're still ahead of most chainsaw users, I'll bet. My guess is that most guys don't clean the bar groove at all.

-- Loren

Cut4fun · December 24, 2009, 03:00:22 PM

Most of the homeowner and firewood cutters I take care of have no clue about the bar groove, oil hole and how it all works together.
They just look at me when I say see here here here keep this clean etc to keep oil to the bar.

Rocky_J · December 24, 2009, 03:13:17 PM

Quote from: Cut4fun on December 24, 2009, 03:00:22 PM
Most of the homeowner and firewood cutters I take care of have no clue about the bar groove, oil hole and how it all works together.
They just look at me when I say see here here here keep this clean etc to keep oil to the bar.

And every one of them refers to the 'blade' on the saw. :

:D

01crewcab · December 25, 2009, 03:08:56 PM

Quote from: Rocky_J on December 22, 2009, 11:45:27 PM
I use an old 1.5" putty knife I bought from Home Depot about 10 years ago. I think it was about $3. Works great, I can scrape the crud off the outside of the bar as well as clean the groove. The screwdriver/scrench doesn't fit all the way down into the groove.
That's what I've used for over 30 years

732hess · January 08, 2010, 08:50:43 PM

TAKE A BROKEN CHOKE CABLE, FROM A SMALL GAS ENGINE, REMOVE THE INNER CABLE FROM THE OUTER, DISCARD THE OUTER CASING, THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE INNER CABLE WITH A KNOB, A HEAVY METAL SLEAVE AND THE WIRE STEEL CABLE, CUT THE STEEL CABLE WITH SIDE CUTTER, BEND END OF CABLE 90 DEGREE IN VICE ABOUT 1/2 LONG, OVERALL LENGTH OF TOOL ABOUT 8 INCHES. WORKS GREAT AT CLEANING BAR GROVE, OIL SUPPLY HOLES AND CLEANING CAVITYS UNDER SIDE COVER AROUND CLUTCH. I STORE MINE IN A DISCARDED PLASTIC CIGAR TUBE IN MY TOOL KIT.

madhatte · January 08, 2010, 11:32:18 PM

Oiler cover plate works too.

jumpinmp · April 11, 2010, 06:23:25 AM

Quote from: ickirby on December 23, 2009, 11:09:25 PM
Quote from: Ironwood on December 23, 2009, 09:58:53 PM
...do you guys pump some grease into the end bearing on the tip?...

The two schools of thought I have heard on this both make sense to me.

Thought 1:
Quote from: Rocky_J on December 23, 2009, 10:21:44 PM
...I have never nor will I ever grease a bar tip.IMO the problem is that the grease only helps for about 10 minutes and by then it has spun out of the bearings and just becomes a dirt trap around the tip sprocket.
I couldn't have said it better myself.

Thought 2:
If you are going to grease it do it all the time so you keep the grease as fresh as possible.

I personally grease mine all the time now, mostly because I'm using my saws as demo saws while teaching chainsaw safety and maintenance to people who otherwise would not even know the sprocket was greaseable (or cleanable or even present some times for that matter). I have run bars happily without greasing them for their entire life and have never once regretted it.

Your choice, I'd just avoid greasing infrequently.

I agree completely. You either grease it religiously, or not at all.

bandmiller2 · April 11, 2010, 08:30:52 AM

I usally just blow out the groove with pressed air as I blow off the dust.Usally every outher time I file I clean out the groove.Has anyone ever experimented how long it takes for sawdust to fill a clean groove.??Frank C.

nc/sc · April 11, 2010, 08:47:42 AM

I always have my Leatherman Surge on me..
The little bitty eyeglass screw sized driver inserts on it are the perfect size for cleaning the bar groove in my case ;)

lumberjack48 · April 12, 2010, 06:08:58 PM

The groove is a oil reservoir to keep a steady flow of oil to the chain, rail, roller nose and sprocket. When it gets full of dirt, the oil doesn't get in all the right place's. I new loggers that had no clue you were supposed to clean the bar rail out. I used a hack saw blade most the time, then i had a old table knife that worked better, it didn't bend and it had a handle. Greasing a roller nose, here's my thought, take that little grease gun and throw it in the woods. When you grease it , the grease is gone or burnt up in 2 or 3 cuts do to chain speed, then the grease forms a film out side the roller nose bearing so bar & chain oil can't get in to the bearing. I learned this back in the early 70'ds

Al_Smith · April 12, 2010, 08:01:08 PM

It may sound dumb but I use the end of a drywall saw to clean out the bar groove .One of those little bitty ones about 8 inches long .

SawTroll · April 14, 2010, 05:08:26 PM

Anything that fit into the bar groove can be used for that purpose, and I do it pretty often.

My tool of choise is a Stihl raker guide, that is useless for rakers, but do a good job at cleaning bar grooves (it has an extension on it for that purpose).

HolmenTree · April 14, 2010, 09:26:04 PM

I got a Oregon hook cleaner like Lorens, but my favorite is a Sandvik 146 hook. The Sandvik's hook is not as concave as the Oregons making it a little easier to use. Another job these little tools does is used as a shim to tighten up or resize your bar rail's kerf. This doesn't work on laminated bars though.
All my hooks and bars are .050 so when I need to tighten up the rails, I lay the hook tool inside the groove starting at the bar tip joint. Have the hook tip outside the groove to hold it in place and pull it along with your finger. With the bar laying on a heavy anvil or what have you, with a 2lb hammer, hammer the rails lightly where the tool is. Move the tool along as you hammer to the tail of the bar. Flip the bar over and go back again hammering the other rail. When you finish at the nose, put the hook tool in the opposite side rail groove and do the same as the first.
I've been doing this for over 35 years, works like a charm.
Willard.

LorenB · April 15, 2010, 10:24:40 AM

Willard,

I wish I had heard of that technique before I bought one of those bar rail closer tools with the two rollers. I like your idea. Thanks for posting it.

Loren

HolmenTree · April 15, 2010, 10:52:12 AM

Your welcome Loren.
Bar rails and its body seem to have a "memory"in their structure and proper hammering works the best to get them back to where they were.
Also bent solid body bars can be hammered back to straight perfectly, hammer the bend area of the bar only on the "hump up" side.
Be carefull not to hit the rails.
Willard.

rbtree · April 23, 2010, 10:39:32 AM

bump this old thread.

I use a combo bar groove cleaner/depth gauge tool. easy to hold.

And haven't greased a bar tip in 30 years......bar oil does the job just fine. Rocky's right, if you grease them yopu must continue to do so.

Some modern bar tips lack grease holes, as well.

sawbob011 · April 24, 2010, 10:02:21 AM

Ive been useing a tapered round scraper that I never used for my carpentry to clean the grove. Its a perfect fit and gets it cleaned very nicely. Of course the other day I started a project where I actually needed a good scraper and now mines too crummy from cleaning my saw with. Oh well, Ill just have to buy some new tools :-) The toothpick on my pocket knife is finally getting use cleaning the oiler hole.