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coping log posts

Started by knowslittle, December 20, 2009, 11:45:57 AM

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knowslittle

  Newbie here again, asking pehaps some remedial questions, but hoping to gain some insight from the board's experience.
  Very little experince w/ logs, I'm building 4 trellis' and asked to cope log posts into the log above it.  Given the economy, hate to turn any work down.
   Can anyone recommend the tooling and procedure to cope a log post into a log beam?  Did a search, and although helpful, still have unanswered questions.
  I'm thinking initial cut w/ Makita  electric chainsaw(w/ carving bar and chain?), following with perhaps handwork w/ a gouge, then finish to the line w/ disc sander.
  Experienced finish carpenter/millwright for some 25 years, but this round-into-round concept is a bit daunting.
 
thanks!
Bob

jander3

Not sure what you mean by coping.  Below is info on joining a log to a beam.


Mortise and tenon

Here a tenon was cut on the post and a flat spot with mortise was cut on the beam.








If you don't like the look of the flat on the beam, you can cut the tenon on the post, cut the mortise in the round log and then scribe the post to the beam (you can see a basic example at the following url: http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2008/12/blog-post_28.html)

knowslittle

Sorry. The correct spelling (me thinks) is copeing.  Similar to your blog(thank you) but copeing (scribing) one log to the other @90 degrees, hence a post-to-beam fit.  Although there is no need for a tenon, as the engineeer calls for GRK fasteners, so all that is needed is to scribe fit one log end to the other.  Just not sure which tooling and procedure is most efficient, and I would like to be efficient as this will be on a fixed contract price.

Thanks for your time,
Bob
 

Ironwood

Look up Lancelot, get the double stacker, and for God's sake make an extension to get your hands away from that hand eating/ man maiming tool (I love them). They work slick, but your grinder should have an extension handle that YOU will need to fabricate as there are none on the market to suit your needs. Also, put a waste board somewhere on your bench or work area to stop the head when you shut off the tool, as free wheeling is when you get careless. I have used them for years, it is the SCARIEST tool in my arsenal, including 6' chainsaw bars ,and ANY other tool. There are no "deadman" grinders available on the market to stop the head when you release the paddle switch (get agrinder w/ a paddle switch, not the slide one, as it takes more effort to slide the slide, which creates a dangerous condition) I run mine on air now, as it is lighter and les fatigue= less potential for accident.

When building the gazebo (pic) the one caretaker had a BAD accident, and on Extreme Home Makeover the one Aussie guy had a similar incident.









            Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

jander3

I know guys that use the Lancelot to cut notches and lateral grooves. That thing scares me.  I will stick with a chainsaw.

To cut your posts:

Set up the joint and scribe a line on the post (keep the scriber level).

Use a 1" chisel and score just inside the scribe line (flat part of the chisel against the line). Drive your chisel 1/2" or so into the wood.  Get close enough so there is no wood showing between your chisel and the line.  This scoring prevents tear out and gives you a finished edge.

I cut and brush with a chainsaw.

You can get the general idea at this link (http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2008/12/blog-post_27.html).  You would be working on the top of post.

If you are not comfortable cutting and brushing with the chainsaw, you can use your saw and slice the wood like a loaf of bread. Cut to within about 1/4" of your scored line.   Knock out the waste wood with an axe or hammer.  A little chisel work and she should be set to go.  A 4" disc sander with 24 grit discs will clean up the notch quite well.

If you scored your line well, the edge is finished.  The line stays, but you should not have any visible wood inside the line.

knowslittle

Thank you Jander and Ironwood.  Almost opposing views of the Lancelot, but both usefull.

Did a search and found Arbortech, I guess a smaller version of the Lancelot. Might work well. Dunno. All good advise, although  two different techniques, I'll see  which one I'm most effective at.  Jander, I do have a Lancelot, and although at least 15 maybe 20 years old,  I  try hard not to use it. . .scary.

Thanks to you both, and have a Merry Christmas (is that o.k. to say here?)
Bob

Ironwood

Knowlittle,

Yes, you can speak like that here.

FYI. If you can get comfy w/ the Lancelot and YOUR new handle extensions there will be NO TOOL that can come close in terms of effeciency. It will be a trade off for sure. But I would not hesitate to use mine as I have addressed all the safety issues, and see no reason not to use it (SAFELY). 

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

iffy

I used my lancelot for a year before I stuck my finger in it. Finger is still the same length, but considerably skinnier on the end. When I first bought it and showed it to my buddy, he made the prediction that it was not a question of IF I was going to stick my finger in it, but WHEN.
After the accident I bought a new Coleman grinder because it has the handle up on top and keeps you away from the wheel. Shut the barn door after the horse was out. ;D

moonhill

Could a picture of this Lancelot thing be posted, I want to know what to stay away from.

And Happy Solstice.  We should all go out and have a big fire to coax the sun back.

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

beenthere

Google Lancelot tool wood and you will see the disks that have a chain saw type chain on the rim, in place of the grinding stone or disk on a right angle grinder.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

iffy

Here's the critter. I have a picture of the actual tool and my finger after the run-in but don't think I'll post it here.



Ironwood

It might be good to post it here, it will emphasize the point of the handle extension ;D

I talked to the guy who invented these things REALLY nice guy. Great product, but procced w/ caution.

  Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: moonhill on December 21, 2009, 04:09:28 PM
We should all go out and have a big fire to coax the sun back.

Well said, and I'm having a big fire.....but it's in my wood stove...... ;D
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

iffy

Quote from: Ironwood on December 22, 2009, 08:58:09 AM
It might be good to post it here, it will emphasize the point of the handle extension ;D

I talked to the guy who invented these things REALLY nice guy. Great product, but procced w/ caution.

  Ironwood
I have a picture in my gallery. I am not comfortable with posting it in this thread. Although the handle of my grinder is pretty scary, it had nothing to do with the accident. I was shaping a profile on a half-log filler and was holding the grinder in my right hand while it was coasting to a stop. I reached for the end of the log with my left hand and stuck it right in the wheel. Not paying attention is what caused the accident. a guard would not have stopped this accident either, as I hit the portion of the wheel that would have been exposed even with the guard in place. Stupidity won.

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