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Food in contact with wood

Started by Brad_bb, December 02, 2009, 02:06:58 AM

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Brad_bb

I have a fruit press that I'd like to make a basket for.  It originally had a steel basket, but it's rusty and I wouldn't want my juice in contact with it.  So I'm thinking of what to make the basket staves.  I know maple would be ok, because cutting boards are made from maple.  I don't have any hard maple though.  I do have White oak.  Is that safe for contact with food? Or do I need to get some maple?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Ianab

White Oak is used for wine barrels isn't it?

While some people have got sick from drinking wine, I dont think it was the Oak that caused it?  ;)

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

metalspinner

The wood you choose could effect the taste of your juice.  That's why oak is used for wine.  Just take a look at the "Smoker" thread in the Foof, Food, Food board. 

Other than personal allergies, I believe most woods are food safe.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

pineywoods

Quote from: Ianab on December 02, 2009, 02:22:05 AM
White Oak is used for wine barrels isn't it?

i

Ian

Don't know about wine. Whiskey barrels are made from white oak. White oak was granpa's choice for barrels and woven baskets.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Gary_C

I have heard that some claim Aspen is the one wood that is safe for any alergic reactions. It is the one wood used for things like popsicle sticks and other food contact uses.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

ohsoloco

My dad bought a commercially made cider press (made from maple) that came with some type of clear epoxy finish that I coated all the wooden parts with.  Seems if you put something like that on there it wouldn't matter what type of wood you used  ;)

Tom

'Course, there is the logic that people have been gnawing on raw wood, without problems, a lot longer than they've been gnawing on plastic paint.  :D


beenthere

Quote from: ohsoloco on December 02, 2009, 12:17:20 PM
My dad bought a commercially made cider press (made from maple) that came with some type of clear epoxy finish that I coated all the wooden parts with.  Seems if you put something like that on there it wouldn't matter what type of wood you used  ;)

If I were not going to use the cider press, and put it up for display, then I'd use a finish like epoxy.
But, if used around food, then I would expect the epoxy finish to eventually flake off after time and usage. Wouldn't want to risk having the epoxy flakes in my food.  :o :o ::)

The bare wood next to food would be best, IMO.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

SwampDonkey

Mineral oil would be about the only thing other than raw linseed oil (not the distilled stuff) to rub on wood for food use. Maybe bees wax to.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Brad_bb

Ok, I guess I'll go with the white oak, since I don't have any maple.  I have mineral oil to coat it with. 
I also have the food grade clear epoxy that I will coat all the metal parts with, after I've painted them black and baked it to harden it.  I found the food grade epoxy via a bee keeper supply website.
Thanks all.  I had heard some say that white oak saw dust(inhaled) was bad for you.  I didn't know if certain woods had something, like a chemical, in them that is not good for us.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

DouginUtah


Or you could find someone to bead-blast the steel container to get rid of the rust.

I used raw linseed oil once. >:( Then I found out it never dries hard--it's always sticky. Never again. If it isn't boiled, forget it.
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

Brad_bb

Oh, I have a glass bead cabinet, that's how I blasted and primed the rest of it.  If I blasted the basket, it's still just steel, and will rust when in contact with the fruit juice.  That's why I'm going to make a wood basket. 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

SwampDonkey

Quote from: DouginUtah on December 02, 2009, 09:55:13 PM

I used raw linseed oil once. >:( Then I found out it never dries hard--it's always sticky. Never again. If it isn't boiled, forget it.

Add too much without wiping access off can do that. I mentioned not the distilled stuff because they have a petroleum additive unless otherwise stated food safe.

Pure tung oil is also food safe.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

DanG

Quote from: SwampDonkey on December 03, 2009, 04:14:31 AM
Pure tung oil is also food safe.

Whoa!  I'm not saying you're wrong about that SD, but I've always heard that Tung oil is poisonous.  I don't really know, though.  Maybe we should look it up, eh? ;) :P
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

DanG

OK, I did a little Google search and found several sites that say that tung oil is a food-safe finish, but all of them were woodworking sites, most of which were selling tung oil products.  Then I found this one, which I trust implicitly:

http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/node/31

Here is a quote taken from that site:

"All parts of the tung tree are poisonous even though it has been used to treat skin conditions and constipation. The seeds are the most dangerous part of the plant. One seed can be fatal to a human. Symptoms may include severe stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, slowed breathing, and poor reflexes. The leaves give some people a poison-ivy-like rash."

I don't know about y'all, but I'm gonna try and keep that stuff away from my food!
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Brad_bb

Mineral oil works great for cutting boards and such.  Though I wonder how much pressure you need in the press to squeeze the oil out of the rocks?  ha ha
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

DanG

Maybe they use Organic minerals. ::) :D :D
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

beenthere

Quote from: Brad_bb on December 03, 2009, 01:57:24 AM
Oh, I have a glass bead cabinet, that's how I blasted and primed the rest of it.  If I blasted the basket, it's still just steel, and will rust when in contact with the fruit juice.  That's why I'm going to make a wood basket. 
Going from the pic posted, are you going to modify the press plate and cut it down to fit inside the wood basket?
And maybe some stainless steel bands to hold the basket slats together?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

SwampDonkey

Dang, butternuts and fiddle heads were going to kill us to. I've ate all kinds of both. Well preserved by now. ;D

Shop teacher said Tung and Teak oil wasn't food safe it's got additives. Tung oil itself isn't suppose to be all that bad. Your not drinking the bottle full like a Yoplait health drink. :D Lee Valley says it safe, their's has no thinners or driers in it, which would be petrol based I assume. Walnut Oil is another food safe finish to, ideal for salad bowls.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

DanG

Well, the Institute for Food and Agricultural Science, which is the Extension Service for the University of Florida says it is poison, so I think I'll just go along with that.  Lee Valley, if I'm not mistaken, is trying to sell the stuff. ::)  The Romans thought it was just fine to make their water pipes out of lead too, but that didn't work out too well for them.  If you want to eat off of something that is coated with poison, go right ahead, but please don't encourage others to do it.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

SwampDonkey

I think your confusing raw plant parts with processed oil. Better not eat raw cashews. :D There are also other foods (vegetable) that are cooked that can't be eaten raw. Jack-in-the-pulpit will set your mouth on fire if eaten raw, but cooking takes the sting out. ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

DanG

I ain't confusing nothing.  The process for extracting oil from tung seeds is to squeeze them until the oil comes out.  Pure tung oil is just that.  Most of the tung oil products on the market are just mixed with other poisons, such as petroleum products.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

SwampDonkey

What's done with the oil after extraction? Is it cooked or boiled? And no I'm not talking about adding other products to it. I guess it's not exactly raw if it's boiled or cooked though. But, it's still tung oil and not varnish. ;D Lee Valley says theirs has no additives in there food safe 100 % Tung Oil. I doubt very much they would get away selling poison for food safe applications.

From the Wood HandBook:

"Penetrating wood sealers and drying oils may also be used
for eating utensils. Some of these may be formulated for use
on utensils."

"Sealers and Drying Oils
Sealers and drying oils penetrate the wood surface, then
solidify to form a barrier to liquid water. Many commercial
sealers are similar to thinned varnish. These finishes can
include a wide range of formulations including polyurethane,
alkyds, and modified oils. Unmodified oils such as tung,
linseed, and walnut oil can also be used as sealers if they are
thinned to penetrate the wood.
"

"Eating Utensils

Penetrating wood sealers and drying oils may also be used
for eating utensils. Some of these may be formulated for use
on utensils. Wood sealers and oils absorb into the pores of
the wood and fill the cavities of the wood cells. This decreases
the absorption of water and makes the surface easy to
clean and more resistant to scratching compared with unfinished
wood. Penetrating wood sealers are easy to apply and
dry quickly. Worn places in the finish may be easily
refinished. Some of these finishes, particularly drying oils,
should be allowed to dry thoroughly for several weeks
before use.

Be sure that the finish you select
is recommended for use with food or is described as
food grade. For information on the safety and toxicity
of any finish, check the label, contact the
manufacturer and/or the Food and Drug Administration,
or check with your local extension home economics
expert or county agent."

"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

DanG

I can't speak for Lee Valley.  Perhaps you should pose that question to them.  I did some research on tung oil when I got ahold of some seeds a few years ago.  I never saw anything about boiling it.  My understanding is that it is used raw, so I would assume that the 100% tung oil product is not processed any further.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

SwampDonkey

It's probably no worst than some stuff we poke in our faces.  :D :D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

DanG

SD, you're sounding like somebody who just soaked all of his Christmas cutting boards in Lee Valley tung oil. :D :D

That one little statement in the IFAS link I posted is enough to keep me away from the stuff:  "One seed can be fatal to a human."  A seed is about the size of a pecan, and the oil from it can probably finish about one square inch of wood.  Why would you take the chance?
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

SwampDonkey

No, I don't stock any. What I would use is mineral oil. It's way cheaper and about the worst that can happen from consuming it is a visit to the can. And I doubt a whole table spoonful would be on my slice of bread unless there is some shotty wood finishing going on. :D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Brad_bb

Beenthere, Yes, I am considering cutting the pressing plate.  I've got to get more into it and determine if I really need to or not.  I might have enough slop between the press plate and and the diameter of the lower cast stand to fit my basket.  Haven't gotten there yet though.  If I have to have it turned, I can.  Stainless straps would be nice if I can get a hold of some, but steel will work.  I have another press that came with a basket.  I refinished it's steel bands much as I'm going to finish this press.  Blast, PPG Epoxy primer (I restore classic cars too so I'm pretty good with paint and body), black paint, maybe baked to harden, and finally the food grade clear epoxy. I used stainless screws for the band to staves.
   I was going to sell this press on ebay, but then thought twice and since I'm out of work, I have the time to make the basket and finish it.  The other press I use has some gaps in the staves that are too large(I didn't make that one), so this is my chance to build a better basket.  If it comes out better, I can sell my other press.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

ljmathias

I think the confusion here has to do with the basic chemistry that happens when tung oil (and the other drying oils) actually "dries."  Turns out to be a complete misnomer: drying involves loss of a solvent such as water or petroleum distillates (used in polyurethane coatings).  As the solvent evaporates, the polymer that is dissolved in it thickens, hardens and solidifies, just doing what it naturally wants to do.

Drying oils do something totally different: their molecules chemically react with the oxygen in air to form chemical bonds with each other.  This leads to polymers, or crosslinked polymers actually, that are hard, solvent resistant and non-digestible.  Doesn't mean there still isn't present some of the "poison" molecules that make them dangerous, but more than likely, those are also bonded in and can't leave anymore.

Process is similar to what happens when we make polystyrene from styrene: the styrene monomer is volatile, smells bad and is bad for you, but once you make a polymer out of it, you can drink hot coffee from foamed cups made from it.  Key is to let all the styrene leave or get reacted in.

One of the problems with drying oils is that they are sometimes "cheated."  They may be mixtures of different kinds of cheaper oils, or worse, they may contain additives that accelerate the polymer forming reaction- cobalt is one of those and it's routinely used in linseed formulations, for example.  Problem is, these additives don't get bonded into the polymer and they can leach out and be digested by us weak humans: poison.  So unless you use "pure" tung oil, you don't know what you got...

Would I eat off or work on a pure tung-oil treated cutting board?  Sure, I would personally.  Would I sell one to someone else?  Probably not.  Would I give one to a relative?  Probably so, if I didn't think they might sue me if they didn't cook their chicken long enough and got food poisoning.  It all comes down to degrees of risk, and what is acceptable risk for you.  What's acceptable for some isn't for others.  While you can't be too safe (well, maybe you can- remember the latter days of Howard Hughes?), you can be too careful: as one of the signature lines of a forum member points out, "something" will kill you no matter what.  It's how we pursue and enjoy life before that that's important.

I'd be much more worried about second- or third-hand smoke from cigarettes than pure tung oil on a food-contact application; but then that's me, as an ex-smoker and prostate cancer survivor...

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

DanG

Thanks for the chemistry lesson LJ.  We all learn a lot from guys like you who have expertise in areas that are strange to many of us. :)

Still, I must ask you a question.  Would you make wooden toys for your infant Grandchild, and coat them with pure tung oil, knowing that they are likely to chew on them?

The reason I have pursued this is my concern that respected companies like Lee Valley are advertising this stuff as food safe when there is at least a strong doubt about it.  When I did the brief Google search on it yesterday, I didn't even have to open any of the links to spot several such claims on the first couple of pages, all from companies selling tung oil.  My thought is that most any responsible woodworking Grandpa would feel right proud of himself for checking up on it before using it on toys, and would readily trust the info provided by reputable companies.  He wouldn't likely look 3 pages deep in the Google list to find the link I posted.

It would be comforting to know that the product being sold has undergone some process that renders it safe, but we don't know that.  It could well be that the poisonous part is a volatile that disappears with evaporation, but I've seen no evidence of that, one way or the other.  I have to wonder if the companies have actually investigated, or just took the word of the Chinese company that sold it to them. ???

As I was writing this, it occurred to me that I am distantly aquainted with Dr. Bill Law, who is the head of the Plant Biology Dept. at Fla. State University.  I happen to know that he has an interest in matters such as this.  I will email him and see if he can shed some light on it. ;)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

ljmathias

DanG: good thought on your friend Bill Law- keep us informed on what he says.  While I understand the chemistry involved, I'm not a chemical safety expert.  I do know, however, that the trend is to consider everything toxic and back off as data becomes available showing something's not.  Not a bad way to proceed except for the fact that, with everything toxic, there's not much left to use.

As to my grandkids, well, first of all, they eat bugs and stuff off the floor, so maybe chesing on a toy wouldn't add too much... :D :D  Seriously, though, you raise a good point: would I make something for them when they stop chewing on things and finish with tung oil?  You bet!  Would I give a kid who's teething anything coated with anything at all?  Nope, even paint or so called "natural" finishes; mineral oil has been put forth, but that actually used to be a "flushing agent" for kids with upset stomachs- bad side-effects for babies.  In fact, would I let a baby chew on a toy made just of wood with no coating at all?  No, he/she might chew off a splinter and get it stuck somewhere...

We come down to the distinction between being safe and being careful, but I'll reserve that opinion for a more appropriate discussion.  I guess it comes down to which evil you choose and what level of safety and risk is associated with it: it drives me crazy sometimes when my wife and daughter-in-law look at possibilites that are so remote as to never happen in the real world, yet I give in and change the design of the stairs or the upstairs window so that "what if" can't happen no matter how unlikely.

This has been a great discussion and I hope everyone realizes that my opinions are my own and not safe for general consumption. ;)

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

DanG

LJ, I appreciate your input on this.  I did another Google on "tung oil toxicity" and found that I'm not the only one that is concerned, but nobody seems interested enough to follow up on it.  It has been mentioned on a number of other woodworking forums, but has failed to spark much discussion.  It'll be interesting to see what Dr. Bill has to say about it.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

DouginUtah

I have a book (somewhere in storage) written by a guy whose name I can't recall at the moment (now I recall his name is Michael Dresdner) but he is a woodworker/finishing expert who lives in Puyallup, Washington. In the book he discusses toxicity of finishes and his conclusion is that all commonly used wood finishes are non-toxic when fully cured.

And that's all I've got to say about that!  ;D
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

SwampDonkey

Well I did purchase some Linseed oil today because I know we used it on our bowls and bread knives 25 years ago in shop class. I never made any bowls for food use since. But, this here litre will last me for a very long time. Says not to drink it [like coke though] or feed to animals. :D Folks consume the cold pressed flax seed oil as soft gels. What do you think linseed is? All it is, is French for flax. It's extracted and processed differently. You don't want to know what they want you to dilute it with and applied right on the cutting board or butcher block. :D

I also got some mineral oil and I have no worries about that either. No one around here to chew and lick enough of it to amount to beans.

They had 4 litre jugs of the linseed for $20, this one litre was $10. Boy, how we like to take it. :D


"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

ohsoloco

Brad, the label on that can looks just like the one that came with the cider press.  No flaking of that stuff either (so far).  It's some tough stuff  :)

BcWoodWorks

Have we reached any definitive answers, as to which finishes are safe to use with cutting boards?

FWW magazine recommends pure linseed oil, not boiled for their cutting board design. As a rookie, planning to make an Christmas present out of this; I would really hate for someone to get sick because I made a serious mistake and got the wrong kind of oil.

Any further information would be most appreciated; although I have to say the previous posts are quite detailed!

:)

Alec - Woodworking rookie, and Private in the United States Army.

"Safety first, impressions last. Remember it." -Swampdonkey

Don_Papenburg

Why not just blast the rust out of the cast cylinder , then do your squeezin and then coat it with mineral oil to keep the rust at bay .
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

DanG

Quote from: BcWoodWorks on December 04, 2009, 10:19:12 PM
Have we reached any definitive answers, as to which finishes are safe to use with cutting boards?


I really don't think it is that big of a deal for items that just come in casual contact with food, like cutting boards.  I'm more concerned with things like salad bowls where acidic things like vinegar would be in prolonged contact with the wood, or toys and furniture that small children might chew on.  I think the linseed oil will be just fine for your cutting board.  Don't make it too pretty though, 'cause they may just hang it on the wall and not use it. ;) :D :D
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

BcWoodWorks

Quote from: DanG on December 04, 2009, 10:39:54 PM
I really don't think it is that big of a deal for items that just come in casual contact with food, like cutting boards.  I'm more concerned with things like salad bowls where acidic things like vinegar would be in prolonged contact with the wood, or toys and furniture that small children might chew on.  I think the linseed oil will be just fine for your cutting board.  Don't make it too pretty though, 'cause they may just hang it on the wall and not use it. ;) :D :D

My apologies Dan, I should have read a little more deeply than I did. I didn't realize such small things like vinegar dressing could affect the finish! Just goes to show, when you're a rookie...You're reaaaaally a rookie.  :D

Don't worry about it being too pretty, I'm just aiming for it not being firewood for Burlkraft's stump pile!   ;D

Good posts, by the way DanG. Truly well sided.
-Alec
Alec - Woodworking rookie, and Private in the United States Army.

"Safety first, impressions last. Remember it." -Swampdonkey

DanG

Well thanks BC, but I'm a rookie too when it comes to things like this.  In fact, it is my ignorance that makes me cautious, overly cautious at times I'm afraid. ::)  You see, I have no training in chemistry at all, other than the tidbits I've picked up here and there over the years.  You could say that I have just enough knowledge to make me dangerous, but I prefer to think that I have just enough ignorance to make me safe.  I have no idea just what acids might react with what oils to release toxins that are supposedly locked in by some curing process, so I try to avoid those that have toxins in the first place.  Tung oil, for instance, is made from a known toxic plant.  I'm sure it is quite safe for casual contact, but what effect will flooding it repeatedly with apple juice have on it?  I don't know, you don't know, and Brad doesn't know, so he would be well advised to not use it on his cider press, in my way of thinking.

As far as I know, the linseed oil will be just fine on your cutting board, and I've never heard anything to the contrary.  Mineral oil or olive oil would be other safe choices, as none of them would hurt anybody if they did leach into the food.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Lud

I've avoided using olive oil as I've heard it can go rancid......besides I don't like olives.

Mineral oil and beeswax is my choice so far.  My wife stacks the bowls she uses with paper towels between them that have the mineral oil she's reloaded the bowls with.  Y'see, that's the problem with mineral oil...it leaches away and you should reapply to bowls being used regularly.

"Once a month for the first year and then as needed" is some old wisdom I've heard.

I wonder if anyone has tried running a vacuum on a bowl in a bag full of mineral oil?  I'd bet that would get penetration by sucking the air inside of the bowl out and sucking the oil in deeper.
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

Brad_bb

Don, the basket in that photo consists of an outer sheetmetal ring that is soldered at a vertical seam that forms the loop.  I'm sure lead solder.  The inner basked is perforated sheetmetal ring again soldered at a vertical seam.  The basket is not cast, only the base and upper screw bracket and handle.  When I did blast the cast parts, there was what appeared to be solder on them too.  I think they used solder to "bodywork" the castings before painting.  I blasted some of it off, but that which did not come off, was covered/sealed by the epoxy primer and will be with paint and food safe epoxy as well.

It seems like there is consensus on Mineral oil being safe.  Linseed seems to be about 50/50, Tung oil doesn't seem like many agree, and Olive oil, while safe to ingest while it's good, does go rancid eventually and therefore I would not use it.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Mooseherder

We use Mineral Oil for our Grinder Plates, Knives and Grinder Worm Gears at our SuperMarkets because it is food safe and won't go rancid.  The equipment is cleaned and sanitized daily so the oil serves more of a lubrication to slow down bare metal rusting after production is finished.
These parts seem to rust overnite if we don't use mineral oil. ::) 
A case of 4 gallons lasts over a year even using it daily.  We dispense it in spray bottles.

I wouldn't use oil that has an opportunity to go rancid on food contact areas.

Don_Papenburg

Brad that was not solder in the casting , most food contact appliances had tin plating to keep the rust at bay.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Tom

Lead makes you stupid.  I think that is my problem.  Castnets have lead weights and I have kept one in my mouth for days on end.  :D

geohayes7

Cypress is also considered non toxic. Try using key word toxicity instead of food safe for internet searches.
"Those who expect to reap the blessings of liberty must, like men,undergo the fatigues of supporting it"....Thomas Paine

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