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Buying an old skidder

Started by junkstang, November 04, 2009, 03:53:15 PM

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junkstang

I also forgot to state that the differential locke did work and the wire was keeping the locke from falling into full locke position.  After locking in and driving straight for a short distance, I got off and did not see fluid pouring, It still may have a leak when locked in but I don't believe it is pouring oil.

I am going to check the JD website to see if I can find a drawing/diagram and maybe getting a better understanding of what might be happening.  I had not thought of doing that, thanks!!!!!

 

junkstang

  8)
I drove the skidder home yesterday and got it for $4500.  The skidder drives well and seems tight.  The only problem that I have noticed so far is that the winch will jump out of gear and does it when the winch is not under load.  It can be used now like it is but I am going to pull the top off of the transfer case and look at the PTO drive and see if I can lock it in gear.  I will report back when I know more.  The steering motor may be to close to the case to pull the cover easily.  I am hunting a shop manual now,and  I have printed out the parts diagrams from JD.

Magicman

Sounds like you are "on your way".  Old machines that aren't in full production can still do work.  Congratulations..... 8)
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It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Kodiakmac

I'm running an old (1968) 440 I bought about a year ago.  I hooked a bungee cord onto the diff lock because my clumsy heels were always inadvertently engaging it.  I baby the old buggy, so I rarely use the diff lock.  Your neighbour is probably just being careful

Here's an excerpt from a post about a year ago that you can apply to any used skidder:

Check engine oil, hydraulic oil for water.antifreeze contamination when the machine has been parked for a few days.  Just crack open the oil-pan drain plug a wee bit and let out a 1/2 cup of fluid...if it doesn't look like waste oil, it's probably water or antifreeze.(Water in hydraulic fluid not usually a big problem, but water in engine oil can be)

check pins at the tickle points (have the owner raise front end with blade, put skidder in gear and let the clutch in an out a few times, if the pins/bushings at the articulation points are shot, you'll see the machine buckling up/down at this point)

Check brakes and clutch by holding brakes, putting trannie in a lower-mid gear, and letting out clutch while reving engine.  If engine doesn't stall, the clutch is shot...if you go ahead, brakes need work.

Check skidder and winch by using it!!!!
Robin Hood had it just about right:  as long as a man has family, friends, deer and beer...he needs very little government!
Kioti rx7320, Wallenstein fx110 winch, Echo CS510, Stihl MS362cm, Stihl 051AV, Wallenstein wx980  Mark 8:36

Bobus2003

I have a '69 JD440 and I have the same problem with it popping the winch out of gear, I solved taht by putting a Bungie cord on it to keep it engaged.. Now as for the diff lock.. There may not be a problem and like some have said just a way yo keep from accidently engaging it or, It could have a problem and its to keep it from being a bigger problem, On mine i unhooked the pedal so it couldn't be engaged accidently.. It works great and doesn't leak oil on the ground, it Leaks oil in the diffrential, fills it up and blows out the Wheel seals.. Not a Fun Fix Possibly why its wired up

zopi

Are yoou in eastern VA? I'm in Smithfield..probably not too far from you.
Got Wood?
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And lots of junk.

Old Iron nut

 Re the JD 440 skidder. A number of years ago I had the opportunity to operate one of these machines (diesel) and found it to be pretty good. However; it had some shortcomings in the hydraulic system. We thought the front main pump was faulty so we tore it down and replaced some of the capsule units in it. This helped but things were not right. This main pump gets its supply from a small priming pump in the rear of the transmission.   The hydraulics would stop working if you had the machine in gear and your foot on the clutch. We kinked the machine off either the left or the right and drained the tranny. We then removed the rear transmission cover and found that the priming pump is in top of the transmission with a long steel line extending down to the bottom where the oil is. The line had fell out of the pump and the pump was picking up air. I brazed the line in the back of the pump after I pulled the back off the pump. All they had to hold the line in was an o-ring. The unit performed great after that. Just had to remember to shift it into neutral and keep the foot off the clutch pedal when winching. Hope this helps those with similar problems. Old iron nut.

junkstang

I live in Charlotte County about 20 miles south of Appomattox.  Thanks for all of the advice, The pins are tight, must have been replaced.  I pulled the top cover that is under the steering valve and over the PTO ( I think it is called the clutch inspection plate).  I got extremely lucky!!!!! The rod/lever that engages the PTO/winch drive had a snap ring which had jumped out of place.  It was still on the shaft but not in the grove, which was allowing the PTO "driven" gear to slide off of the drive gear.  The forks and gears looked new.  I installed two new JD snap rings, reassembled, and it works great.  The winch is a beast!!!!!!!  The machine started Saturday morning unassisted and it was about 30 degrees and I ran it all day.  Snaked hardwoods logs, pushed up a fence and pushed up some old stumps my 90 horse tractor would not touch!!!  Saturday night I repairs two minor hydraulic leaks which while repairing with the proper o-ring realized that they had been repaired before with cotton string.  I have alway heard that you could do this but I have never tried it.  I am "tickled to death" with the machine and looking forward to my next opportunity to run it.  And I am also wondering how many o-rings have been replaced with a cotton string!!!!!! 8)     

rickywashere

prolly none as even if you do repair them with cotton that drip a little that cotton trick is ment for short term use only lol

mad murdock

Glad to hear you are having fun.  Old Iron when inspected well, is the best deal out there. A skidder is so much better than a tractor for dragging wood, it is not even close, in comparison.  Merry Christmas!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

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