Help Clear this Up??

[Typhoon]

Ok I am a bit confused.. so maybe someone could help clear this up.
It is about saw chain size. I just recently ordered a chain for my saw, and it didnt fit. I still don't understand why. I have a Husky 350 with an 18" bar. My chain size is .325, 050, 72 drivelinks. Ok so I ordered an Oregon 33LG. If im not mistaken, this chain is .325, 050, 72 drivelinks.  Now im sure about the drivelinks, because I counted them. But the chain did NOT work on my saw. It just kept binding. Does anyone out there have a husky manual who can decipher it and describe to me why the 33LG chain did not work? Also, what does "33LG" mean? Because there are all kinds of numbers.. like 33SL, 34LG, 34SL, etc etc. I though all chain was the same as long as the 3 major numbers were right. Thanks!!
-Brad

[Kevin]

33 stands for .050" bar groove thickness.
LG is round ground chisel design, ramped depth gauge and standard sequence.
Three things need to match , the drive sprocket pitch, the bar sprocket pitch , chain pitch and the groove of the bar must match the thickness of the chain driver.
The chain drivers must also match the bar length.

What model is your bar?

[woodbeard]

33LG and such are Oregon's model numbers. Yours should have "33" stamped somewhere on the chain. Check it to make sure they sent you the right stuff.

[Kevin]

If that's a micro-lite pro bar then you need a 95VP chain...
or
you can get a new bar to match your new chain.  ;D

[Typhoon]

I don't know what kind of bar it is really. It just says Husqvarna on it. And it is 18".

[Kevin]

What chain works on that bar now?
How does the height of the cutters compare between the two chains, does your original chain have smaller cutters than the new LG chain?

[Typhoon]

The chain that came on the saw. It is a Husqvarna chain. But I still don't know what the number is on it. The manual has a chart with the different size chain/bar combos but it is chinese to me. I love everything about this saw and the manual except this one chart. It is rediculous. I cannot understand it for the life of me! I have studied it for like an hour and still don't get it. The chain just says "Husqv" on it.
There is a picture of the saw and bar on the Husqvarna site. That is the bar I have.

[Typhoon]

I will check to see if the size of the cutters is different. Should that make a difference?

[Typhoon]

Maybe this will help. On the Oregon site, it says the chain that fits my saw would be the 33,34, or 35SL superguard.
I got the 33LG supergard. Would these chains be the same?

[Kevin]

You may have a narrow - kerf bar which uses a special chain, if so the cutting teeth will be smaller.
A standard chain such as the LG will not fit this type of bar.

[Kevin]

Don't forget your dealer should have a cross reference to any numbers you can get from your bar.
He can tell you what chain fits the bar with the manufacturers number.
I don't have access to Husqvarna part numbers.

[David_c]

hey kevin i have the 350 with the 18" bar i got 2 extra chains when i bought it this is what he gave me stihl 23rs 72e if this helps.

[Kevin]

The SL series have the bumper tie strap ...you don't want that.
It's the same size as the LG anyway.

David, depends what bar he has.

[David_c]

why dont i want the bumber tie strap whats it do

[Kevin]

I don't like them because they can be more difficult (or impossible) to sharpen using the filing guides.

[David_c]

allright thanks i was thinking of getting oregon chans anyway now i know i will.

[Kevin]

That's a liability safety anti kickback gizmo that most saws are sold with.
Oregon has them also, all depends on the style or series of chain you buy.

[Kevin]

Typhoon;
I'm not sure if we covered this before but does that bar have any numbers on it anywhere?

[David_c]

thats what i thought when i opened them i havent used them yet.

[Typhoon]

Ok I may be getting somewhere here. On the bar of the chainsaw, it has a little symbol. It is the symbol for "narrow kerf". The chain that came on my saw has holes in every other drive link also. I looked at the chains very closely and compared them. It looks as though the Oregon chain that didnt work is slightly thicker at the part that fits in the bar. However, I could have swore somewhere I read that you could use a larger chain in the narrow kerf bars, but not the other way around. When I put the oregon chain on the saw, it turns just as freely as can be. But when I started it up that day, it kept binding. I guess I could try it again tomorrow??

[Kevin]

I wouldn't use that new chain until you determine what bar you have.
95vp narrow kerf chain has holes in every other drive link.
Is there a 95 on any of the drive links?
Does it have bumper drive links?

it has a little symbol. It is the symbol for "narrow kerf"

This pretty much tells the tale.

[ohsoloco]

Kevin, do you have a link to a good site that explains all the different types of chains?  I was just looking at the numbers on my new boxes of chains, and have no idea what any of it means   :-/

[David_c]

heres somthing he posted for me once
http://www.cdcstihl.net/stihlpost/spring2001/chain.html

[David_c]

heres somthing else you might want to try
www.oregonchain.com/index.htm

[ohsoloco]

Thanks, David...the first link didn't work, but the second one hooked me up  ;)   Now, another question...how crucial is the filing angle?   I've been told by an arborist friend that I should keep the angle of my file at zero degrees (if you're staring down the nose of the bar)....in other words, keep it level as you're filing.  According to what I've now been reading, I should be filing at 10 degrees....I'll set my file guide to ten in the future.  Have I done much "damage" to the chain, or compromised the cutting performance much  ???

[Kevin]

You should file your chains to the manufacturers recommendation.
The directions for filing Oregon chain is on the back of the box.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/kvn.rob/Chainsaw2.jpg

Here's a link to Stihl ...http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/identify.html

[Minnesota_boy]

The filing angle that the manufacturer suggests is optimal.  Other angles are less than optimal, but the question is, how much less than optimal.  I hand file and I usually don't notice much difference.  I do not cut for a living though.  Those who depend on their saws to make the money want the best speed they can get.  For the rest of us, what's a couple seconds on a cut.  I've lost much more than than that to a dull chain.?  I've lost more than that to a can of beer a time or two also.  ;D

[David_c]

ohsoloco i missed a c try it now ;D

[ohsoloco]

Sweet, it's workin' now, David  8)

[Typhoon]

Jeff, and anyone else who is interested. I have the problem solved. Evidently, there is a problem with the Oregon chain that was sent to me because I found out 2 things. #1. A regular .325 050 chain WILL work fine in a narrow kerf bar. You just can't do it the other way (i.e. run a narrow kerf chain on a regular bar).
#2. I tried out a different chain today, a Carlton .325, 050 72DL chain, and it ran great!! I cut for about 2 hours with it, no problems at all and it is a regular size chain.
I talked with Jeff Sikkema, from SNS Saw shop on the phone today, and he told me that a regular size chain will run fine in a narrow kerf bar. I also read this on the Oregon site somewhere. So that led me to try a different chain. So, bottom line is, I believe the Oregon chain is either the wrong chain, or just defective. It seemed kind of stiff anyways. However, that is still hard for me to believe because I have had nothing but the best of luck with Oregon chains on all of my saws. Anyways... problem solved... and thanks Jeff for all of your time on this post.
-Brad

[Kevin]

Brad,
Oregon definitely stipulates that the micro-lite narrow kerf bar should only be used with the 95VP chain.,
Using anything else may cause premature wear, maybe not.
Do the links on the narrow kerf match the links on the LG?
There are many bars available for that saw that will accept a standard kerf chain.
Can you tell where the other chain was stiff?
Was it on the master link?

Here's what I found ...

It takes less power from the saw to make the same length of cut with a narrow-kerf bar/chain cutting system than with a standard bar and chain. Micro-Lite™ is the bar for occasional woodcutters who want the advantages of a narrow-kerf cutting system.

    * Professional-quality steel material for strength, durability, and resistance to wear.
    * Thickness of side laminates is reduced to work with narrow-kerf chains
    *
      Available in models with the Intenz® tensioning mechanism built into the bar itself.

Note 1: Micro-Lite™ bars are available in two gauges: .043" to be used exclusively with 3/8"-pitch 90SG chain, and .050" gauge to be used exclusively with .325"-pitch 95VP chain. Never install .043"-gauge chain on a .050" gauge bar.

Note 2: Always install a Micro-Lite™ bar together with a Micro-Lite™ chain in order to obtain all the advantages built into the Micro-Lite™ narrow-kerf cutting system.


Some extra reading ...
http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf

[Typhoon]

Ok finally I found where I read it initially. Oregon RECOMMENDS that to get the most performance, if you are using a narrow kerf bar, to go ahead and use a narrow kerf chain. HOWEVER, they state that it is ok to replace your 95VP chain (narrow kerf) with a regular size chain on the same bar. Here is the link... once you get there, click on "Oregon chains for hand-held saws", once that opens in acrobat, look down towards the bottom of the page and you will see the note....
So I guess im not messing anything up according to Oregon... wait.... I better not speak too soon!! hehe...  8) 8) 8)
Here is the link....
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/tech_guides.htm

[Kevin]

 It will work but what about the abuse to the lighter bar.
You are using a large kerf cutting chain on a narrow, less beefy bar designed for a narrow kerf chain.
Without having both chains and both bars to compare I can't say one way or another but I would be inclined to match the chain to the bar designed for it.
At least the mystery is cleared up .

[jokers]

I agree with Kevins outlook on running a standard kerf chain on the microlite bar, the bar won`t last as long. But laminated bars are generally poor quality anyway. Brad can then buy himself a better bar.

As Typhoon has proven, standard chain will work well on the narrower bar initially.

This whole binding issue sounds as if Brad`s chain was assembled with the wrong pitch connector. Any way that you could measure it accurately Brad? Might be good for a replacement chain from the dealer who sold you that one.

Russ

[Typhoon]

Yeah, I think Kevin is right too. Even though you can run a regular chain on a narrow kerf bar, I think it would wear quicker, and just not perform as well. Im going to stick with narrow kerf chain like its designed for. Also, someone said laminated bars are of lower quality? I didnt know this. Could someone explain in a nutshell which bars are better? (I.E. solid vs. laminated, replaceable tip vs. non, sprocket tip vs. non?). Also, does someone make a good quality bar with the narrow kerf design? Because I have noticed that my saw cuts better with the narrow kerf chain.. as it was designed to. Thanks! And thanks  
Kevin for the help! ;D

[Kevin]

It doesn't hurt to have an extra bar and chain on hand.
I know this doesn't happen to anyone here  ;D but if you ever happen to get your bar stuck in a kerf you can leave it there by removing the power head and finish the job with that extra bar and chain.
The Oregon Pro , or Power Match bars are decent.

[ohsoloco]

Hey, that's how I got my extra bar  :D  Just wish I would've gotten a longer one instead of the same length  :-/

[Oregon_Rob]

One of the things I enjoy about having similar saws (older Jons 801, 372 & 2100) is that I am able to swap bars and chains back and forth. I have 20, 24, 32 & 36" bars that fit the 372 & 2100.