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Table saw rust

Started by oregonsawer, November 09, 2009, 12:03:48 PM

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oregonsawer

I have my shop in a metal building.
My table saw and jointer is always rusting.

What do you guys use to prevent this?

RSteiner

I spray on a light coat of WD-40 when I done using the saw.  I use WD-40 and a piece of Scotch-brite to remove the rust.  A good wipe down with a cotton cloth before using seems to remove it all.

Randy
Randy

DouginUtah

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Larry

I had the same problem.  Condensation was the cause and normally happened in the spring and fall.  I kept the machines waxed with Johnson paste wax but that only helped.  To control the condensation I laid a heavy piece of plastic sheeting over the equipment.  I cut the plastic sheeting so it was only a couple of inches larger than the machine top.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

SwampDonkey

Quote from: RSteiner on November 09, 2009, 01:12:45 PM
I spray on a light coat of WD-40 when I done using the saw.  I use WD-40 and a piece of Scotch-brite to remove the rust.  A good wipe down with a cotton cloth before using seems to remove it all.

Randy

Ditto to what Randy does.

And yes, I get moisture up through the concrete (water vapour) and no ventilation in the shop during spring/summer/early fall.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Patty

I scrub the rust off with steel wool, and then rub in a generous coat of Johnson's paste wax. WD 40 sounds like less work tho
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jim king

Here in the Amazon with 90 degrees and 90% humidity most every day I have a full time waxer that when he finishes the round of the machines he starts over.

We have a lot of very acidic wood that also adds to the problem but wax and more wax keeps everything looking new.

IMERC

furniture paste wax...

WD-40 can an will ruin yur project if any gets on the wood..
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

SwampDonkey

Quote from: IMERC on November 10, 2009, 12:25:05 AM
WD-40 can an will ruin yur project if any gets on the wood..

Yes, have to be careful and thorough removing it.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Jasperfield

I use a very hard drying paste wax called "Renaissance Wax". It's been used by woodworkers for many years. Most people use it to protect machine table tops, etc. It has good anti-friction and anti-corrosion properties as well.

IMERC

Quote from: SwampDonkey on November 10, 2009, 04:32:31 AM
Quote from: IMERC on November 10, 2009, 12:25:05 AM
WD-40 can an will ruin yur project if any gets on the wood..

Yes, have to be careful and thorough removing it.

and flamable too...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

Don_Papenburg

I cut a chunk of extruded poly foam board to the size of the table top , that keeps the cool air from the machined surface .   Do not leave doors open in the spring fall or anytime the humid air outside is warmer than inside.
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brdmkr

Quote from: SwampDonkey on November 09, 2009, 05:09:25 PM
Quote from: RSteiner on November 09, 2009, 01:12:45 PM
I spray on a light coat of WD-40 when I done using the saw.  I use WD-40 and a piece of Scotch-brite to remove the rust.  A good wipe down with a cotton cloth before using seems to remove it all.

Randy

Ditto to what Randy does.

And yes, I get moisture up through the concrete (water vapour) and no ventilation in the shop during spring/summer/early fall.

I reckon that makes 3 of us.  I have not found it too hard to remove, but you do have to get it off before running wood over it or it will mess with finishes.
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Warbird

Thanks for the suggestions.  I was just moving things around in my shop, putting the snow plow on the truck and what have you, and noticed that the Mrs had put a piece of pressure treated wood on my saws table for storage.  I moved it off and it is very rusted underneath.  :(

I have some 00 steel wool and will be cleaning it today.  I will probably go with the "renaissance wax" Jasperfield mentioned.  Or something like it.

cpkstudio

You should be careful to use wax that does not conatain silicone as the silicone may also affect the finishing of your wood.  The original Johnson Paste Wax in the yellow can is what I use.

Brad_bb

Moisture and silicone...

If you can afford to keep your shop heated to at least 60 degrees, it will prevent temp swings through the dew point, which will cause condensation on anything metal, machines, tools, car parts.  This is a major cause of rust on shop stuff. 

The point about silicone is a good one.  Having started out doing car restoration, I learned early on that silicone was the enemy of any paint or finish work.  Bodyshop will usually not allow any silicone based products in their shops.  Once silicone gets on paint, it's very very difficult to get all of it off.  If you try to apply new paint, the paint will bead like water on oil.  It will also affect finishing on wood.  So the best bet is to keep those products out.  Many car tire dressings contain silicone, I believe WD40 does as well, or at least it has some of the same properties.  Silicone are tiny beads that act like ball bearing, which is why it can be such a great lubricant.  But those tiny beads are what makes it difficult to remove as well.

I was just cleaning up my table saw top the other day.  You can use fine scotchbrite pads, but what I found worked really well for light rust is SemiChrome metal polish.  It doesn't leave fine scratches that the scotchbrite might.  After polishing, definitely wax.  I use Meguire's yellow wax that I use for my cars because it's always nearby.  The wax not only helps protect, but lubricates the surface making the wood material slide better.
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bikedude73

I read in a wood working mag use wax paper to rub all over table to keep from rusting......

IMERC

Quote from: bikedude73 on December 17, 2009, 09:27:17 PM
I read in a wood working mag use wax paper to rub all over table to keep from rusting......

that works...
butthe short cut is furniture paste wax...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

SwampDonkey

I'm going to rub my saw down with it tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. It should also make it a lot slicker to saw material to.  ;D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

IMERC

that it will...

just make sure there isn't rust on the top before ya do...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

SwampDonkey

There isn't any rust per se. I've been actively sawing along since I'm in the shop daily in the winter. But, that sawdust you know is like water to steel, so I'll have to give it a good cleaning first. ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

tomsteve

i have a heated shop, but it isnt heated all the time in the winter, which lately has been gettin down to the single digits. i also park my car in there. i have a ceiling fan that is on low at all times. the circulating air help greatly with the rust problem.

Night Raider

I see now they're starting to make table saws with granite tops so there is no rusting or warping, I wonder how long that idea will last.

Larry

Just thought...if you use wax like I do, put it on with a coarse Scotch Brite Pad...available at most auto parts stores.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

mike_van

If you don't want to heat the whole shop, a droplite with a 60 w bulb right under the table [saw, jointer, whatever]  will keep it warm enough to stop the condensation.  The biggest problem I have is when it's been cold, then a high dew point warm air mass comes up from the south. It's like it's raining in there.  There's some science thing that says when the dewpoint is higher than the temp. of objects, water will condense there. Or something like that.
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