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When to replace the bar

Started by sprintfan11, October 30, 2009, 09:39:34 AM

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sprintfan11

What are the signs that it is time to replace the bar? When I was checking my bar last night, I noticed the metal had an edge along the outside of the channel. I grabbed a Dremel and bit and ground it back smooth. Will this work for now or will the chain have a better chance of coming off? The channel seemed fine and I checked all the guide teeth, no probs there.
Use up, wear out, make do or do without.

Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20"
1994 GMC 1500 4X4
Central Boiler 5036 OWB
Troy-Built 27 ton splitter
Generac 6500 generator
More stuff to come....

Reddog

When the bar groove is too shallow for the drive tooth, then it is time to replace the bar. If you try a new chain and it does not touch the rail is one way to check. Or use a piece of shim stock and measure how deep the groove is, once down to .020 clearance I would change it out.
The rails can be flattened with a file also. It will leave the rails truer than a dremel tool.

Tom

Check the sponsor list on the left side of the page here.  The one that says Lucas Mill/Bailey's  is a link to Bailey's catalogue.  They have hand dressing tools/files for bars.  It's common maintenance to dress the burr on the sides of the bar and to flatten the bar too.  If you don't feel comfortable doing it, your chainsaw mechanic/shop should be able to do it for you.

Pferd builds an edge sharpener for bars.  Baily's sells them but you can also find them on the Pferd link.
http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201/20101/index.html

Al_Smith

 A belt sander does a fine job too  for that matter .

rebocardo

I use the bar tool (with gloves) listed above, it works fine.

Al_Smith

 I have a Poulan S-25 which I bought new some time in the 70's with the original hard nose bar on it .

The bar has been reworked several times and I imagine has had in excess of 20 chains on it .

One must remember though this saw was made in a time before people were so anal about the amount of bar lube oil the saws used . As if excess of same were akin to the wreck of the Exon Valdez . ::)

Jim Spencer

I use the sanding disk on a delta sander to keep my blade rails true,  works great.
I have a logosol mill so sharpen lots of chain and continuously squaring the rails on blades.  The saw will cut crooked when the rails get worn and need truing.  Keeping the rails square and true is very important if you want saw to cut without binding.
Jim

Tom

1.When the grooves get so deep that the mugs tip over when you slide'em.

2.When all of the lawyers start passing it on the first try.

3. When it gets bent so far that you can't pry with it anymore.

4. Before the inmate gets it cut all of the way through.

:P

fishpharmer

Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

sprintfan11

Quote from: Tom on November 12, 2009, 02:00:12 AM
1.When the grooves get so deep that the mugs tip over when you slide'em.

2.When all of the lawyers start passing it on the first try.

3. When it gets bent so far that you can't pry with it anymore.

4. Before the inmate gets it cut all of the way through.

:P

:D :D :D
Use up, wear out, make do or do without.

Husqvarna 455 Rancher 20"
1994 GMC 1500 4X4
Central Boiler 5036 OWB
Troy-Built 27 ton splitter
Generac 6500 generator
More stuff to come....

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