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Portable mill

Started by draggon_9, October 27, 2009, 07:24:09 PM

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draggon_9

I'm just learning how start using my portable mill. After I made my first cut I suddenly realized I was going be putting screw holes in my future board to hold down my 2x4 guide board. Is there another way to hold the guide board, or do the holes disappear after the boards dry.  :-\

pasbuild

I can't help you with the anchor question but I can tell you that holes don't disappear.
If it can't be nailed or glued then screw it

zopi

Quote from: draggon_9 on October 27, 2009, 07:24:09 PM
I'm just learning how start using my portable mill. After I made my first cut I suddenly realized I was going be putting screw holes in my future board to hold down my 2x4 guide board. Is there another way to hold the guide board, or do the holes disappear after the boards dry.  :-\

Oh...I think I see..you have a chainsaw mill, yes?  level and strap down the guide board, using tie down straps and wedges or props to level the guide board...it shold be parallel to the heart of the log....when you saw up to a strap, carefully remove the strap and replace it behind the saw...use this setup for the first slab, then simply let the
mill guide bars ride on the smooth top of the log...

I recommend a read of Will Mallof's Chainsaw Lumbermaking....
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

zopi

heh..actually, I recommend a big orange bandsaw mill...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

fishpharmer

Draggon_9 Welcome to Forestry Forum.  Glad your here.  We would like to hear more about your mill and what you plan to saw.  There are alot of wise folks here.
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

draggon_9

Thanks, Zopi. I thought about that and Thought it was a little more time consuming but what the heck, I'm in no hurry. I had to cut down 2 White Cedars and White Fir cause they we're to close to the house and 1 Cedar was getting rotten. There all about 30". I cut them in 6ft. lengths hoping to make a cedar dresser & maybe a work bench with the Fir. I have to find room in the garage to dry the boards. It'll take about a year I guess.

zopi

yeah...figure a year per inch of thickness...sticker them ouside, under cover...a tarp or whatnot, in a sunny location for three months or so, then move them inside...get them down to 19% or so then on down...don't want to dry em too quick...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

Magicman

draggon, I can't help you with your question, but I can say WELCOME to FF..... :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

draggon_9

Thanks (Magicman). One more quick question anyone; can I put (Black Jack) on the ends of my boards to keep them from cracking?

James P.

welcome draggon 9 to the forum, search all the info on the site for csm chainsaw mills. There is a lot of useful info . I had a CSM when I first wanted to saw lumber. I didn't know all the ins and outs. worked myself to death. Gave it up and since recently joining this forum, I see that CSM are a good mills to have for dedicated and specialty use.
What is black jack ?, I have used water soluble black tire paint, I know its working dries like rubber. I'm not sure it isn't staining the end grain . I have used latex paint on maple. It discolored several inches of the end grain. Only realized it once I sawed the logs. Good luck with your mill.

draggon_9

Black Jack is a moisture resistant roof coating, it's kind of a watery silver tar. I couldn't find it in the forums.

ljmathias

Black Jack should work fine but sounds kind of expensive compared to commercial end seal... but then again, maybe not.  One thing: don't cover the stack of stickered wood so air can't get through- you'll have the most gorgeous crop of fungus and rot you can imagine!  Just put something on top and keep the ends of the boards out of direct sun- should dry fine as long as it doesn't repeatedly get wet...  "Air dried" means just what it says, so air has to move over and around the wood for it to take up any moisture.

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

zopi

y'know..I painted the ends of some cypress with latex paint about two years ago..cut one of the logs today...no checking and the logs are in great shape....
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

draggon_9

I've already got a gallon left over from roofing, just a good way to use it up. I'm going to stack it in the garage to dry. There's not very many sunny days up here during the winter, plus about 2 to 3 ft. of snow all winter makes it hard to get to things. I don't want to constantly be digging out the wood pile.

backwoods sawyer

Are your board long enough to have plenty of trim (12"-24")?
That black jack will stain the wood quite a ways up the board when applied to the end of the log. Think of the wood fibers as long grains of rice all laying is the same direction from one end of the log to the other. The black jack will not soak into the fibers but will soak in around the fibers and the stain will travel several inches in. A water-based wax is the best thing to use for sealing up logs, and it is not all that spendy.  You can cut corners but sooner or later it will come back to bite you. However if you do not mind trimming off good wood then consider the black jack, paint, bees wax, varnish, or any one of the other home remedies that you may have laying around out in the shop.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

WDH

Anchorseal is wonderful stuff for end coating, and well worth the money.  It is about the best thing that you can apply since it is specifically formulated for end-coating logs/lumber.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

LeeB

Nail some cleats on the ends of your guide board and attach them to the end of the log. You'l still have holes but they won't be in the face and if you measure carefully you can put the screws on a cut line.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

draggon_9

I started wondering about that so I just used paint instead. Thanks (LeeB) I figured out my guide board problem by just putting a screw on each end I only sacrifice about 2" of board and it comes out pretty straight seeing I'm only cutting 5' boards. By the way, I'm running out of stickers, could I use some MDF I have laying around?

LeeB

MDF is not a great choice. It will get wet and swell up.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

draggon_9

What if I'm drying in the garage with a fan?

rickywashere

that would prolly be ok as long as its keep in the dry

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