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Electrical question

Started by ohsoloco, October 25, 2009, 10:12:52 PM

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ohsoloco

To power the electric winch on my old truck, I ran 2/0 welding cable from the battery to the back of the truck (zip tied to the frame) and just tucked it into the end of the hitch frame to stow it away.  I also ran it through a master disconnect switch under the hood of the truck so I could turn the power on and off to the cable.  Well, I can't really find a place to mount the disconnect switch under the hood of the new truck  :-\  Question is, do I really need to cut the power to it?  I'm using these connectors on the cables... http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/LC10x.html?id=AB5L4UM9

The female one would be at the end of the line on the truck, tucked away when not in use.  Would there be any danger in leaving it energized all the time?  This is just the positive lead from the battery.  I obviously felt better safe than sorry before, but there was a nice neat spot to mount the disconnect switch.  Any thoughts  ???

Tom

I wouldn't feel comfortable with a live wire hanging around, out in the open.   It would be my luck that it would ground and cook my battery when I was in the middle of the woods.   Maybe you could come up with some kind of cap for the end of the wire.  I think the cutoff is a great idea and would find a place for it somewhere.

Ha!  Instant jumper cables too. :D

ohsoloco

I agree, Tom, that "live wire" thing just makes me a little uneasy.  I'm thinking if it got soaked with water on a rainy day or something, it could ground itself on the frame.

Never thought of using it as a jumper cable  :D

Ironwood

Man, ABSOLUTELY provide a cut out up front. I have always hidden mine somewhere reachable from the front of the truck usually in the grill area (dont need to open the hood). My  latest is in the center of the grill of the 550. The other bonus is that all the components are mostly fiberglass ad plastic up there, so les of contact issue w/ a ground. I have really padded and protected my line but you never know! Think of 4 batteries linked together in an accident, definite fire starter. I have yet to find a fusible link w/ the kind of AMPS this assembly pulls. It makes my Venturo scream (fast) but all the amps has burned out a few seleniods when I reach lift capacity. Tons of juice, but hard on the seleniod. I think my cable is as thick as my pinky, so WOW loads of draw. Get the highest rated switch as well, and dont be afaid to use it. Actually I have three. This enables me to isolate the crane batteries for use, combine all 4 for charging/use of the rears (two in the crane pedestal), or combine all for charging w/ out powering the crane as I drive. Sometimes those switches can get sticky if not used.

Your connectors are nice and inexpensive as well. I use the two BIG plug style ones from NAPA, they are pricey, but I use them for mobile electric winches which mount at hitch points at the bed bulkhead, and rear reciever, the crane (which is moveable around the bed), and for jumpers. All this versatility does create the need for the second heavy connector as the ground is critical.

Ironwood


Crane and winch at bulkhead





Crane at the rear in this one



There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

ohsoloco

Ironwood, any pics of how you mounted yours in the grill area.  I always thought it would be nice not to have to open the hood to turn the power on.  For the ground on the old truck (the trailer being hooked to the truck just wasn't enough) I simply drilled and tapped a hole in the bumper of the truck so I could bolt the ground on the winch to the bumper of the truck.  Not super fast, takes a minute or two to get powered up, but it's cheap  ;) 


Ironwood

It is SOOOOO tight I am not sure I could get a picture ;D Seriously though it was a knuckle buster. Your just going to have to look around for your best spot. Sometimes if there is room on the core support you can mount it w/ just the end (thumb knob) sticking into the grill area. Depends on the truck and accessories up there. My latest had to be into the grill plactic/ fiberglass. You may need to remove some of the grill parts really get in there.


Ironwood   
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Woodchuck53

I have a spare male that I use to keep trash out of the female socket. It was an older pc. from my welding leads that I cut short and siliconed closed. Works good and not having another switch to maitain is a plus.
Case 1030 w/ Ford FEL, NH 3930 w/Ford FEL, Ford 801 backhoe/loader, TMC 4000# forklift, Stihl 090G-60" bar, 039AV, and 038, Corley 52" circle saw, 15" AMT planer Corley edger, F-350 1 ton, Ford 8000, 20' deck for loader and hauling, F-800 40' bucket truck, C60 Chevy 6 yd. dump truck.

DanG

You could mount the cutoff switch back there near the trailer hitch reciever, or wherever the winch is going to be.  A better option might be to mount a jack back there with a plug on the winch to fit into it.  That way you couldn't forget to cut it off when you remove the winch.

As a side note, I recommend that  you run a ground wire of equal capacity straight from the battery.  Chassis grounds are notoriously undependable for add-on equipment, even trailer lights.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Glenn

If you mount the switch near the hitch you may as well not have any as the wire itself will still be powered.  I have seen small sections of grill cut out to accomodate the switch and what i liked even better was an actual electrical box mounted to the grill.  The best ground you could have is right at the hitch.  Drill a new hole  grind to bare steel, attach ground wire and keep oiled, will last forever.

ohsoloco

Got poking around a little while ago, and there's no way I can squirrel that switch in there to operate it from the grill  :(  Perhaps if I removed a bunch of parts, and really worked at it, but then I'd always be hoping I don't have to replace the switch.  I'm on my second one right now...got 8 years out of the first one.  There's a nice spot right next to the alternator, so I'm just going to put the mounting plate there, bolted on with one of the alternator bolts.  Still gotta get in the hood, but I'm used to it.

Since I had good luck with my bumper ground before, I'm going to ground it to the hitch or bumper again.  20 or so feet of 2/0 cable is a little pricey if I don't have to spend the money  ;)

bitternut

Wouldn't a regular marine battery disconnect work good for your application. They are pretty reasonable. Here is a link to one.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Battery_Switches-HELLA_BATTERY_DISCONNECT_SWITCH.html

ohsoloco

Not bad, but I already have a disconnect switch  ;)  Got it from Summit Racing...they're used in race cars apparently.

Ironwood

The switches i use are $45 and there are many AMP ratings. I went for the REALLY heavy ones.

          Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

shinnlinger

How many amps are we talking?  20?  30?  I pull 17 amps when all the auxiliary lights are on in my tractor (One circuit)  and toasted a few switches before I put a household  20 amp circuit breaker in for my switch.  Works well and it you have some laying around, free....
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

Ironwood

I believe mine are at least 50 amp, perhaps more.

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

ohsoloco

I bought one like this, but it's a Moroso.  I believe it's rated for well over 100 amps.  Nice, heavy switch.  I've melted the positive lead terminal "clamp" on the battery several times before making continuous, HEAVY pulls.  Keep extras in the glove box now  ;D

I guess a link would help  :D

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-80140/

Ironwood

Yup that's the one, I bought the heaviest made.

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Chuck White

In some of the RV stores, I've seen a connector that goes on the battery+ terminal.
It's a heavy duty knife switch.
Maybe you could use one of these for your cut-off switch.
I have seen them used to shut off all power to campers, while the truck battery is still hooked up to operate the truck itself!

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

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