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shrinking the log

Started by dtody, October 19, 2009, 07:16:29 AM

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dtody

I got an 18" mill and some 22"/23" maple logs.  Should I chain saw down the middle or trim one side and the bottom flares.  I've cut some huge turning blanks (8x16x16) out of the crotch area--took forever with chain, several sharpenings in process. 

Any thoughts beside "time to upgrade?"  I got a couple more ready to drop.

Thanks for the input.

dtody

york

Well,your still young,i would upgrade,life is good...

Bert
Albert

bandmiller2

Dtody,can you cut the butt flair and any nubs then take shallow slab cuts till you get the size down to where you can handle it??Partner and I cut on a LT70 and we run into stuff thats too big to cut easily and spent half a day diddling with it.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

solidwoods

I don't know what you mean by 18" mill but I'll assume 18" log dia capacity.
I don't know what upgrade options that you would have except to purchase a larger mill, so maybe a chain saw mill like the Alaskan version would be an inexpensive option.
you could flatten 2 opposite faces or more so it would fit on your mill.  They are also useful to reduce the dia. and split in halves/quarters logs that will be quartersawn.
jim
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

stonebroke

Hudson makes one that will handle 52 inches

Stonebroke

dtody

It's an little Oscar 18,  and it's my one and only.  Too many toys.....  My maple has some shimmer in it so would the quarter sawing bring that out? 

I have access to an Alaskan, if I get all my big tree ready, I'll borrow that to box them down to size.  I guess I'm really looking how to maximize the good looks of the wood. 

Thanks for the "young" reference.

Tom

I would cut the nubbins off of the outside and then put it on the mill.  Trim a slab and turn it until it fit the mill. 

I have always found that it's generally better to keep the log intact, so that I can get good boards off of all 4 sides.  If you split the log you deminish your opportunities.  Sometimes the log is just so big that you have to split it.  If you are quarter sawing, it might not be a bad thing, but if you are grade sawing or cutting bowl stock, it takes away options.

Ron Wenrich

I run a circle mill, so maybe this won't work on your mill.  I've sawn logs as big as 42", and my saw only reaches 21".  I use a method called gun barreling. 

You cut part of a slab that will clear your saw.  This may only be a nub or it may be a slab on half the log.  Whatever it takes.  Then you turn your log 1/8 of a turn.  Do the same thing.  Keep on turning and taking what the saw will give you.  Eventually you get to a point that your saw will clear and you can pull all the boards you want, and turn the log and get your grade.

I think that's what Tom's talking about. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

moonhill

Gun barreling, that is interesting, tricky on a band mill. 

dtody, you mentioned sharpening your saw, have you tried to re shape the tooth to rip instead of cross cut?  You file it almost straight across instead of the the normal angle.  Maybe someone will give more info on this.

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

sdunston

You want to file your teeth 10 deg or less and take a little or the sides and tops of the rakers, Bailey's sells ripping chain and alot of saw dealers have a roll around to make a loop up, Got to say its handy to be able to rip with a chain saw but be carefull that lower deg on the teeth adds a whole new meaning to full kick :o

Sam
WM LT28, American fordge 18x8 planer,Orange and white chainsaws, NH TC33, IHT6 dozer, IH-H tractor and alot of other stuff that keeps me agravated trying to keep running

Chico

Just as easy or easier on a bandmill as a circle as log as your dogs hold  Ron's right you'll prob gain more lbr usingh that method than a chainsaw
Chico
My Daughter My sailor MY HERO God Bless all the men and Women fighting for us today If you see one stop and thank them

barbender

Thing is if it isn't a woodmizer the log has to fit inside of the head frame to be able to whittle it in the first place
Too many irons in the fire

Tom

yep!  Woodmizer has a good deal going on with that cantilevered sawhead.  But, that's why you cut all of the nubbins off with the chainsaw first, to try to get the head to pass over it.

Fla._Deadheader


QuoteThing is if it isn't a woodmizer the log has to fit inside of the head frame to be able to whittle it in the first place

  Eggzactically why we built a cantilevered sawmill.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

backwoods sawyer

If you find that trimming the log just will not allow it to fit on you mill, Take the worst side of the log and take about a 10"-12" slab off of it. This can be milled later, and stand the log up so that the head will clear it on the sides. If it is too tall for the head to clear then you can take a second cut 90* to the first one in order to get the log to fit. Making a cut on the mill is a whole lot easier and faster then with a chainsaw.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

dtody

Thanks for the ideas! 

I did grind the rakers a bit on the saw chain and I'll change the angle too.  I might try the slab off the side for one of the shorter logs too see what the wood looks like.  Most of the bases are spalted so the really big circles go for turning blanks. 

While out looking for deer, I found a few more big ones dying so I should have some work for the rest of the fall, the spring, and summer too.

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