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Pine logs

Started by ladylake, October 12, 2009, 07:40:23 AM

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ladylake

 My nieghbor is thinning out some pine trees and will end up with hundreds of small logs 7 to 12" , any ideas what to cut them into or where to sell them.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

bandmiller2

Sounds like you need a building spree,roof over your mill, wood shed,tractor shed est.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ladylake

All of the above.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

bandmiller2

I just issued a building permit ,have at it.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

James P.

hey bandmiller2 , me too please
James P

beenthere

Quote from: ladylake on October 12, 2009, 07:40:23 AM
My neighbor is thinning out some pine trees and will end up with hundreds of small logs 7 to 12" , any ideas what to cut them into or where to sell them.   Steve

Which pine, that dbh, or at what length if small end diam?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ladylake

I don't know my pine, don't saw it very often,it has the long needles. Logs will be 7" or bigger on the small end and up to 30' long. Tall straight and skinny.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Chuck White

Sounds like either red or white pine. The red pine will have flakes for outer bark, that will easily brush off during handling, while the white pine will have bark more like hemlock!

Even with 7" on the small end, you should be able to get 6" boards or 2x4's out of it!

On small stuff, I think the best way would be to level the log, remove a slab, turn the log 180° and remove another slab, turn the log 90°, level the log, remove a slab and then you'll know for sure what you can get!

It's a little quicker & easier if you have the small end of the log towards the mill while sawing!

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

ladylake

 Chuck  I found out it's Norway pine.  I saw like you described amost all the time, it goes fast with a good offbearer that will flip and hold the logs untill they're clamped. I'm going to try to keep the small end facing me on most of the logs, sure makes it easyier when trying to get 5-1/2 or 6 out of a 7" log.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

moonhill

I have only sawn from the small end 5 or 6 times.  Never by choice they were set on the bunks wrong.  When ever I try to saw from the small end I get into trouble with the bell on the butt, I end up with a clearance problem, the bell rubbing somewhere not good.  I simply do a measurement on the top end and cut to that number.  It gives me the willies cutting form the small end.  I suppose the type of saw makes a difference. 

Tim
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robnrob2

When I have more pine then I need building material, what I do is cut them into cants, and stticker/stack them them untill needed,, I do this asap because bugs like them ,,
I also measure the Dia at the small end,, multiply that by .7 to get the approx board/cant width,, example ,,if you do have a 7" at small end log,, it will yield approx, 4.9" cant,, just about 5" 

ladylake

Quote from: moonhill on October 13, 2009, 07:37:34 AM
I have only sawn from the small end 5 or 6 times.  Never by choice they were set on the bunks wrong.  When ever I try to saw from the small end I get into trouble with the bell on the butt, I end up with a clearance problem, the bell rubbing somewhere not good.  I simply do a measurement on the top end and cut to that number.  It gives me the willies cutting form the small end.  I suppose the type of saw makes a difference. 

Tim

There wont be any problem with the but swell on these little logs, but I sure know what you mean on the huge ones, the chainsaw has had to come out more than a few times.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Chuck White

Quote from: ladylake on October 13, 2009, 07:04:24 AM
Chuck  I found out it's Norway pine.  I saw like you described amost all the time, it goes fast with a good offbearer that will flip and hold the logs untill they're clamped. I'm going to try to keep the small end facing me on most of the logs, sure makes it easyier when trying to get 5-1/2 or 6 out of a 7" log.   Steve


I have found that when sawing anything small enough that it can be handled by hand, it's a lot quicker and easier to do than trying to use the hydraulics!
If you have a good tailer/off-bearer it really makes a difference too!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

moonhill

Quote from: robnrob2 on October 13, 2009, 07:56:03 AM
When I have more pine then I need building material, what I do is cut them into cants, and stticker/stack them them untill needed,, I do this asap because bugs like them ,,
I also measure the Dia at the small end,, multiply that by .7 to get the approx board/cant width,, example ,,if you do have a 7" at small end log,, it will yield approx, 4.9" cant,, just about 5" 

I have found that resawing cants/squared up timber is that they will check and then the board will have a check down the length, not all the boards but some.  If you are planning on sawing them in to timber that is not an issue and they could be resized to what you may need.   This is what I do sometimes and the boards all have checks running down the length. 

I will gang small stock up and saw out 3 boards at a time, kind of like edging thick boards.  This usually happens when I am cutting Cedar for they have small tops often. 

Tim
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ladylake

   Moonhill     The owner was talking about 5 or 6" cants also, I talked him out of that for the same reason you gave.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

DanG

I would cut those 7 inchers into 4x4s and have them pressure treated for fence posts and such.  They will make great heart centered 4x4s or two really crappy 2x4s.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

kderby

How about squaring two sides at a set thickness then stack to dry.  Minimal handling and they would make superb structure to use for a tin roof and walls.

They used to square off just one face in timber frame girts and rafters.

I was told that a squared piece of lumber has 25% less strength than a round stick.  On this small a diameter you might as well keep the strength.

Not everything has to be S4S.

keep thinking! ;D

kderby

ladylake

  A couple of good ideas posted above, the more options the better.  How much does pressure treating cost?  I like the open rafter idea, like a old log cabin.  The owner of these logs has a cabin with quite a bit of hand hewn 2 sided beams in it.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

moonhill

You will still have to take the bark off, I would think while it is on the mill take a thin slap off the other two sides and ease the job it will all so allow a flat surface to draw lines on when it come time to cut them to length etc.  You would then have the option to turn the beam up and have the depth in the proper direction. 

Tim
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ladylake

 I was just looking at a big box store flyer.  For thier No 3 and better 1"  pine boards on sale they want  .90 for 8' long and  $1 a bf  for 10' long and longer, maybe prices are coming up.  $1.14 for No 2  1 x 6 x 10'     Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

MrMoo

If you cut the 7 inch end of the log to 8 feet you can make 4x4s out of it and it will nice and stable.

red oaks lumber

 i would take the small logs,   9" and smaller leave them 16-20' long hand peel them dry them and sell them that way. we sell them for 5-8 dollars a lineal foot. or if you know someone building a cabin make d- logs, window bucks,4" cover pine floor, slab them 1" leave both edges on use that as chinck siding. your possibalities are almost endless
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H60 Hawk Pilot

I just read in this Post about square-up of (4) sides, then the beam is ~  25% weaker.

I have plans to saw up --  80 Locust for up-right poles for a storage building. The inside is 15 feet high, so 20 ft. long logs.  Expected sawing size is ~  5X5 {min.) 6x6 {as desired std., some of the logs (trees) may saw 6x7 (at 20ft long.) or 7XR.ound or 8XR  {best guess). Sawing with 2 sides round would be great... thinking 7 or 8 inches thick... would work 100%

Does the forum (above ^) recommend sawing only two sides (only) for better strenth ?  I understand...  why square  4 sides when it's more work and not needed, not worried about looks.

If you had a lot of white pine, would it be your wood of choice for pole building framing ?  I have hard wood too but spoty and I'd reallly  work to round it up for 40 x 80 building.

I've made 14' x 14' silder doors out of white pine and they worked well (light wt.). now over 25 years old.



Avery
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DanG

Quote from: kderby on October 15, 2009, 01:26:19 AM


I was told that a squared piece of lumber has 25% less strength than a round stick.  On this small a diameter you might as well keep the strength.



A 4x4 has more than enough strength for fence posts on anything short of a rhino cage.  I'm looking at the fact that he has a sawmill and not a post peeler.  Sawing them is the quickest way to get the bark off. ;)

Pressure treating prices vary considerably.  Down here, you can get posts treated for about a buck-fifty each.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

ladylake

  Your right Dan I have a sawmill not a post peeler, it would be nice to get $5 to $8 per linear foot but I have no idea who would buy them. Far as peeling I've heard if you cut them in the spring after the sap starts flowing they peel easy, also they use pressure washers to peel them, never tried that yet.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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