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Has Anyone Converted or Added on Forks to their Loader Bucket or Otherwise

Started by H60 Hawk Pilot, October 11, 2009, 04:04:32 PM

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H60 Hawk Pilot

I have a 3800, 4WD IHC Loader/ Hoe machine.

I like to add a set of forks to the bucket.  I see some fork set-ups that are mounted on long shaft mounted in bucket.  The top of the forks have an eye on top & they can slide back & forth, seems to work Ok.

Also, I have seen some home made set-ups. They use two steel end frames, welded 3 channels to the end frames and added forks to the channels. The bucket comes off and you mount this unit up in place of the bucket.

Looking to buy what I can, I want 4 foot forks or longer. I live in PA  (16652) and would consider the fork & frame off a parted out machine & drive to pick it up.


Avery
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

fishpharmer

So you bought it. 

Nice.

I have not added forks but recall a thread or two on such.  Have you searched?
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

pineywoods

Yep, I made my own frame and attached a set of regular fork-lift forks. Mounts in place of the bucket. If you are going to handle logs, I wouldn't recommend the type that attaches to the bucket. That leaves the forks sticking so far out front it puts too much leverage on the loader frame and tractor attach points. Unless you have a large tractor, it severely limits the amount of weight you can lift without the rear wheels coming off the ground. There's a few pics in my gallery, but not enough detail to be really useful. I can post pics if you like..BTW this is on a kubota M4700 50 hp tractor.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

H60 Hawk Pilot

Yep,

I brought the 3800 IHC last Friday. Also, Tandem Chev. with 24 foot tiltback bed and 2nd Chev., 10 foot dump. Older trucks but work fine and will haul firewood & logs.

Today, I bought a 72 Mack tandem with Prentice Log Loader, truck works Ok, looks a little ruff... will do fine for my little operation.

Now... all I need is a Sawmill... my little joke for the day, sort of like getting the cart in front of the horse.

Lately, I've been thinking about the LumberMate 2000 and Norwood 410 molder, the 410 rides the bandsaw tracks.

The next choice is Mobile Dimension, found (1) in NY, the 2nd is MS.  I like the big Circle Saws but don't need to get someone hurt with it. mill.

All in All .. the M D seem's like the mill that's best for me. Most of all my sawing will be pine for cabin logs. The combo deal with -- 2000 & 410 planer seems like a good choice.  I'd have $ 5K in a (used) late model 2000 bandsaw, 24 HP & another $ 5,155.00 in the 410 Planer & set of D - Log knives.  I'd have (est.) $ 11K + in the combo deal. I'll have $ 15.5 in a M D Mill these two mills are 1997 models w/ Hydrostatic drive, xtra blades, etc. .

We'll see, still looking for a deal. Lot's of Frick mills out there, good deals. Like I said, I'm concerned about getting someone hurt in the long run.... so the M D or Bandsaw will be the winner ?

Avery

   
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

Brucer

Yep, twice.

I added forks to my small JD diesel tractor some 25 years ago. They replace the bucket (pull the 4 pins) for 'heavy' lifting. I also designed them to fit inside the bucket and latch on to the upper lip of the bucket. The latter arrangement can't lift as much, but allows for a very quick changeover. In fact, I can unlatch the forks without getting down off the tractor.

This spring I added forks to the Cat 910 loader I'm using. I made up two brackets that bolt inside the sides of the bucket. A piece of 3 x 3 x 5/16" HSS tubing is bolted between the brackets. A couple of salvaged Bobcat forks slide on the tubing. This arrangement leaves a lot to be desired.

  • I can't see the tips of the forks.
  • The forks sit about 4" above the bottom edge of the bucket, making it hard to slip under stuff sitting near the ground.
  • I can't exert downward or backward pressure with the forks.

On the plus side, it was quick & cheap. I can also pick up loose stuff (e.g., sawdust) with the forks still in the bucket.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

shinnlinger

I believe the thread is under sawmills an milling and it is called "Bucket Tusks"  I have some I made that are based on  a 3pt carry all design that I beefed up a fair bit


For the zero money I have in them, they have worked phenomenal, but obviously the style that replaces your bucket is better for payload, but you can't throw your chain saw in  as easily and If you are setting a log or two, I don't know if you need the extra lift capacity as I think you have that covered with your new toy...

I too would caution against the clamp on style as they put alot of stress on the leading edge of your bucket and can warp and distort your bucket pretty quickly.

If it were me I would hit up a junk yard  and try to find some used forklift forks and shafting and hang them as you described or even a junk pallet jack might be good material to start with.
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

Papa1stuff

1987 PB Grader with forks added to bucket
2--2008 455 Rancher Husky
WM CBN Sharpener & Setter

beenthere

Papa
Are there holes in the bucket to screw the three threaded bolts through?

Wondering why the edge of the bucket isn't all the way forward on the forks (or the forks are not all the way back to the bucket edge)?

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

jander3


Papa1stuff

Beenthere-- The pins just drop right through the bucket.
           the bucket is in a slot made for it to fit into!
If you look at the yellow forks in the pickup, you will see a stop .thats kind of what mine is like!
1987 PB Grader with forks added to bucket
2--2008 455 Rancher Husky
WM CBN Sharpener & Setter

James P.

hello again h60 hawk, If I had the material and didn't have a forklift I would make a set of forks to fit in place of the bucket. Just use the buckets mounting measurements for pin spacing. Overbuild it so it can take whatever you through at it. If you need to use a bucket you can make a bucket to pickup with the forks. Some channel welded to  a large oil tank that has a flat side which will be the bottom. chamfer the end of the channel and enclose it so it doesn't pack full of material put some chains on it so bucket can be secured to forks and not fall off. Its the fastest way to have the best off both world IMO. James P.

Meadows Miller

 





Like these James  ;)  ;D 8) Avery i reckon purpose built are the only way to go mate these are made out off 3&3/4 square tube with a 1/4 thick wall the fork tynes we got s/h from a forklift rental in town for $110 au and allup with the tube and plate about $200 and 1 days welding they are good for about 6000lbs lift  ;) but if you want to drive the tractor you should stick to about 4500lbs Max OR The Bloke opperating it Add a counterweight and power steering  ;)  ; :D :D ;D ;D 8)

Plus it only takes 10 min to do a swap over  ;) but im making a larger slipon bucket for sawdust and genaral cleanup  ;)

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Meadows Miller

P.s
Avery congrats on the new toys erhhmm Tools Mate  ;) :D ;D ;D 8) 8)
i reckon the MD would be a bloody good option in the large pine you have but you have to remember that the head goes up n down and side to side and  that you will have to setup a system for tailing out the bigger timber  ;) with the Norwood there will be alot of manual handeling involved and it will turn it into along process  ;)

Atleast with the Frick you could do it pretty dang quick and with a good outfeed roller settup all you would have to do is roll em down it and tip them off with a canthook  ;)with the Saftey Factor I put all mills in the Same Catagory Mate ;)

With machining the D logs for for the cabins id go with getting a larger mill to machine them for you they will be more consitant and will most likely cost about the same as the time it would take mucking around with a little jig addon doing it your self if you counted your time Mate  ;)

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

MrMoo


DanG

Here are the forks I tacked onto my bucket.  I made them from scraps that were laying around.  They work pretty well for quick and cheap.









The little nubs I welded onto the forks bear all of the strain of pushing.  All the little pin does is to keep the fork from falling out when I tilt it down.  Pop'em in or out in a couple of seconds, and you can carry them in your hand. :)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

H60 Hawk Pilot

DanG

The heavy box channel looks good and simple. If I got into 20 ft. white pine about 30 inches dia., would I need three forks to carry the weight.

I'd say that size log would weigh about 1,000 pounds. One of the sharp guys on the forum.. might get a little closer to the weight.

I remember loading logs, mostly oak about that size. We had a IHC 460 farm tractor with front bucket set up. The 460 was good for about 1/2 ton. Sometimes we'd pull up on the side of the bucket. We had to get the bucket up high enough to load the bigest log on the truck bed (first).  Would not have been a smart idea if one of the hoses blew, my dad said, never get under the bucket... still risky business.

Hey, I think I bought a mill today. I'm leaving at 3:00 AM to pick it up, about 600 miles one way.  It's a LumberMate 2000, about 50 hours since new. I think it's a 2001 or 2002 year model.  It had three phase (12 HP) power on it, I bought it without power. It has, two 4 foot extensions, 15 new blades, 4 or 5 used blades, otherwise a very basic mill.

I'm still leaning toward the 410 Moulder by Norwood, shares the same track.  I have three power units that may mount on the mill, one is 28 HP Onan Generator, 2nd is a Mil. motor off a 28 volt gen. / starter unit, est.  22 to 24 HP, also a 4 cyl Wisconson. The generators may not have a rear support bearing to be the right application for band mill. I know the 4 cyl. Wis. is good to go but a good size engine and may not fit.

I need a clutch and belt(s) for the LM 2000.   

I am still looking at a Frick for Higher Production. I found a couple, one in VA and 2nd in MD.
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: H60 Hawk Pilot on October 13, 2009, 04:15:44 PM
...

The heavy box channel looks good and simple. If I got into 20 ft. white pine about 30 inches dia., would I need three forks to carry the weight.

I'd say that size log would weigh about 1,000 pounds. One of the sharp guys on the forum.. might get a little closer to the weight.

...


Hawk,

I ain't toooo sharp but the guy who designed the Log Weight Calculation sure is. According to the Log Weight Calculator in the Toolbox, that log probably weighs about 3,500 pounds...

If you haven't found the Toolbox yet, check it out using the link on the left.. Lots of great info.

Herb


DanG

Avery, that tubing on my forks is the good stuff, 2x2x¼ inch.  It is fine for that wimpy loader I have, but I'd go heavier on a good strong loader.  I still wouldn't use that method for really heavy stuff, but it is real handy when I just need to scoop up some slabs or handle some small logs.

Check out that Forum Toolbox that Pc told ya about.  Our own Ron Wenrich cooked up those nifty calculators in there and you'll find them really handy.  They're pretty DanG accurate, too!  Just look on the left side below all the sponsors.

I think you're making a wise decision on that Norwood.  It will give you time and experience along with some fine lumber.  If and when you outgrow it, you can likely sell it for what you have in it and go on to something bigger. ;)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Stephen1

I followed DanG and had my neighbor weld on some 2" receiver steel in the corner of my buckets. I then scrounged 2" square stock for my forks, haven't bent them yet. Works great for my operation. As some of the boys have said it does restrict what you lift as you are farther away from the center of gravity



.
I used 2" square stock for the forks works great haven't bent them yet :o, and at the back of the bucket I placed hooks to hang my tongs on so I can lift closer to the frame of the tractor.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

DanG

Those log stops at the top of your bucket are a great idea too, Stephen1.  My loader is self-leveling, so I don't need them, but that log would be quite a lap full.  The weight of the bucket is a big factor too so we'd be better off without it. The little plug-in forks are still mighty handy, though. :)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Rockn H

I thought I would try and post some pics of my homemade forks.



I got the quick attach off of a bobcat and cut it down and boxed the back.  It was 8" thick and the cylinder pins were of no use to me.  I wanted it as thin as I could get it.  My old bucket got the pin bushings removed and quick attach brackets added so I can swap back and forth.


You can see how I got the quick attach as thin as the locking pins would let me.


I used 1/2" x 1" solid stock and ground off one corner for the rails or hangers.  Yes the channel has a slight bow.  That's my fault, I got in too big of a hurry welding it up.  The actual forks cost $20 bucks from a local hyster shop.  They are pull offs that are too thin.  Still plenty beefy for my purposes though.


Ironwood

RocknH,

That is the best set up I have seen. Convience is key, and you got it.


Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Mooseherder


Stephen1

Quote from: Mooseherder on October 18, 2009, 08:49:35 PM
Stephen,  Nice Forks.  Is that this years' snow? ???
Hey Moosherder I'm not that far north! I know you are nice and warm down there.Those pictures are from last winter
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

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