Snatch Blocks, What's the difference?

[mpuste]

I'm in the market for a 16,000 lb or better snatch block to use with an 8000 lb logging winch for redirecting pulls and doubling my pulling power.  Warn snatch blocks seem to be readily available in two distinct styles: a simple and less expensive formed metal version (example, 61560) and a heavier style made with cast parts (example, 15640).  On paper, both will suite my needs.  Anybody have advice based on experience with either of these design styles?  Thanks!

[beenthere]

Welcome to the forum.
Looking them up, seems the formed metal would be the easier to carry around. As long as it fits your cable, both should work with an 8000 lb winch.

Like to hear more about what you are logging.

[mpuste]

Thanks for the welcome.  I'm executing a timber stand improvement plan on my 50 acres of neglected woods.  Some logs are being removed to be sawn into timbers for a timber framing project but most of it is firewood.

I have to admit, I'm leaning towards the formed metal design as it is simple, light, and less expensive.  However, I found an online review that suggested the cast design was better suited to muddy conditions.  Unfortunately, the review was in Spanish and the Babelfish translation did not help me understand why.  The reason is not obvious just from looking at pictures.

[Reddog]

The cast style has a much longer service life. It is made for use in commercial service. The sheave is much heavier built and most times has a larger axle and sometimes instead of a bushing they use a bearing.

The stamped style is made for the weekend user to have one in there gear box. Most of this style use a smaller axle and bushing. They work but sooner or later the sheave will give out. When it does this it usually ruins the winch cable by kinking it.

[Magicman]

First, Welcome to FF....Glad to have you...    Personally, I use the formed metal one.  I have a cast one, but it is not my "go to" block.  Neither are 16K blocks, but I have redirected some big old logs.

I normally use two cables.  One goes through the blocks and to the log.  I then attach the winch cable to it.

[mpuste]

Thanks everyone for the feedback.  In reviewing the specs for the specific snatch block models I listed in my original post I discovered that the maximum diameter cable the formed metal block will handle is 8mm and I'm using a 9mm cable.  Looks like I will be purchasing the cast block.

[critter]

     I'm not sure but i have used a few runing lines blockes come fixed single
     double triple shives and up A snatch block is a single shive block that opens
     on one side to except your line rather than to have to theard it they come
     in any size from one to thousands of pounds but still are a single line pull
     unless you use multipes two or more are block and tackel single is a
     running line

     

[dmartin]

Magicman why do you use 2 cables, is it just to save the wear on the winch cable or is there another reason.
Also where did you buy the snach block that you have, I looked for them at tractor supply but they didn't have them.

[chucker]

critter is right !! blockes are used for doubling the weight pull to ease the strain on the pulling machine .... a snatch block is generaly used to move an object to a straighter line of pull direction..or multiple directions to favor a common point to a landing.... useing snatch blocks to ease a load will only come to a mixed ferver of tangled lines from broken cables !!! best left to short pulls and redirected angles!!!!

[Magicman]

Magicman why do you use 2 cables, is it just to save the wear on the winch cable or is there another reason.

sooner or later the sheave will give out. When it does this it usually ruins the winch cable by kinking it.

Same reason that Reddog gave.  To protect the cable on the winch.  Also many times, I'm using both blocks when re-directing logs and need both cables to reach the log.

[Magicman]

Magicman where did you buy the snach block that you have.

Both of mine came from my local welding/supply store.  I've had them over 30 years....

[rebocardo]

I prefer to have a hook on a swivel so the line does not try to come off the sheave and through the side plate. Towing companies usually sell the heavy duty ones.

[mpuste]

Follow up -- I received my Warn 15640 snatch block on Friday and was surprised to see "WLL 4.5 tons" embossed on the side since Warn advertised the block capacity at 24,000 lbs.  I contacted Warn customer service and received the following reply: "The manufacturer of the snatch block is rating it for a "hoist" application (lifted loads), they are rating it in that application as a "Working Load Limit or WLL"".  The rest of the response confirmed that for winching applications the 24,000 lb rating is correct.

I learned something new and thought it worth sharing.

[Eljay]

When I bought my Farmi 3 PPt winch several years ago, I also purchased a self releasing snatch block from the dealer. The winch is rated for 8,000lbs single line pull. The snatch block is of the cast variety using a ball bearing not a bushing. The 3/8 cable releases from the snatch block at the redirection point so I can stay on the winch until the log gets to the tractor. The self releasing feature also makes it easy to thread the cable. Just wrap the cable around the sheave and close the release. I use a chain to secure the snatch block to a tree at the redirection point.

[John Mc]

I use a self-releasing snatch block as well. Sounds similar to what Eljay described. It's built like a tank. I'm using a nylon (?) strap to tie off to the anchor tree, since the chains tend to chew up the bark. The strap is a lot lighter to carry around as well.

John Mc

[rebocardo]

> I use a chain to secure the snatch block to a tree at the redirection point.

I learned not to use a cable no matter how big the cable, after I rescued a cable by pulling it out of the tree with my 4x4 after I almost cut the tree in 1/2. with it ;)