Newbie with dumb question

diaedy · September 22, 2009, 01:37:12 PM

Have a lt 15 on the way with logs cut on ground.(not to excited) Anyway, the logs are pretty much in the 18 in. range and would like advise on the cuts to make starting with #1 through whatever. Also when to turn an how much(90 and or 180) Told ya it was dumb but did a search and I must be doing someting wrong. Pict would be nice if possible.
I owe you guys one.
Diaedy

LeeB · September 22, 2009, 04:36:22 PM

Try looking in here. https://forestryforum.com/tips/tips.cgi?Milling:-:Bandmills. You may or may not find what you are looking for. Even if you don't there is good info for you there.

Bibbyman · September 22, 2009, 05:06:01 PM

Welcome to the Forum!

I suggest you not worry about all that sawing procedure stuff to start with. Just put a small to medium size log on the mill and get the feel of cutting with it for a while. If you come up with boards the thickness and width you intended, then you're off to a good start.

James P. · September 22, 2009, 05:32:36 PM

Bibbyman,? can that go for new circular sawyers too. I am just cutting lumber to cut it. Its already slow going for me without worrying about best face and getting any grade . I am cutting paint grade. when I get better I hope to have your log yard issues.

Chico · September 22, 2009, 05:55:38 PM

I'm not Bibbyman'\, James but yes I would practice looking at the face you can see and look at the swirls and grain and try to imagine what the reverse side will look like cut it study it hardwood grades from the worst side so the better you get at this the more grade you'll learn to pull I would suggest sawing till you see a good sized knot or a series of knots then turn But don't forget that width is your freind because it helps on your cutting to fig the grade with as FAS must be a min 6"wide and have min amt of clear cuttings I usually turn the log randomly to what I think the better faces are So Imo I don't think it's a cut and dry 90 degree or 180 degree turn I f logs are smaller I will usually use 180 just to try and get it cleaned up so I can decide which side or sides will pull the most grade also Diaedy the only dumb ? is the one never asked
Chico

red oaks lumber · September 22, 2009, 05:58:50 PM

bibbyman is right, just saw.. start to get the feel of the saw. if you know someone in your area that saws ask if you could watch him or her . by doing that you would be surprised how much you'll learn. only after you have tried on your mill.
that holds true for both band or circle mill
good luck you guys
.

WDH · September 22, 2009, 06:11:31 PM

The magnetic scale that comes with the mill is graduated to give you the target thickness taking into account the kerf, so you do not have to do the math. I set the scale so that the last graduation is 1&1/16" from the sawmill bed when cutting 4/4 boards. As long as you are cutting the same thickness with each cut, you cannot mess up. If I need some 8/4 when cutting 4/4 and using the 4/4 magnetic scale, I just drop the head two 4/4 cuts and get a board that is right at 2&1/8 inches thick. This is perfect for cutting hardwood 8/4 where the intended use will be furniture. That 2&1/8 thick piece will plane down to 2" finished, which is perfect for table legs and such.

Opening a face then flipping 180 degrees to open the opposite face is probably best to relieve tension in the log, but I usually rotate the opened face 90 degrees so that I have fewer boards that have to be edged on both edges

. Edging is the real killer to your production and your body, so rotating 90 degrees until the cant is square leaves you with more boards that are removed in the opening cuts that have one square edge already. It may not sound intuitive now, but you will discover this edging effect soon enough ;D.

Once the cant is square, I cut to get the best grade when cutting hardwood for furniture, letting the board widths be what they want to be down to 4" wide. I do not cut anything less than 4" wide. Rotate the log to always cut the best grade on a face until the grade falls off on that face, then you can rotate and cut the next face with better grade. If you learn to read a log from the bark, you can usually identify the best faces before you even put the blade into the wood. I rotate the log on the bed to saw with the worst face up (best face down on the bed) so that when you cut that best face, you are cutting parallel to the bark. Woodmizer has an excellent tutorial that explains how to manage the sawing taking into account how to open the log based on the best and worst face. With the LT15 being a manual mill, you get real intimate with this :D.

diaedy · September 22, 2009, 06:22:18 PM

I thank you all for the responces as that was what i am looking for. Honest and inteligent answers. This wood working thing is just a hobby and being retired, i really am looking forward to it.
Don,t know of anyone with a mill setup but will ask WM rep when I pick up mill.

Will keep reading all your post in hope to learn from the pros.
diaedy

Slabs · September 22, 2009, 07:40:58 PM

Locate the owners manual before you finish uncrating and read it throughly. Miser makes a great manual and there is good basic sawing information in there.

backwoods sawyer · September 22, 2009, 07:50:01 PM

A couple of things that I did not catch in your post was the type of logs and what your intended use for them is.
Something that you may want to try is to go to the small end of the log with a crayon or chalk and draw out how the board will lay in the log. Say you want full dimension 2x8's and a couple of 2x12's and the rest can be 1" or what ever you have a need for. Once you have it all laid out how the boards lay you will see the most obvious first and second cuts and then just keep whittling away at it until you have all the boards that you are after. As you saw you will be able to use the crayon less, more just so that you do not loose track of the orientation of the log. In doing this keep in mind how the knots will be placed in your boards and how the sweep of the log will affect where you make the cuts.

KyTreeFarmer · September 23, 2009, 09:31:31 AM

I will put my two cents with Bibbeyman. Just have some fun sawing and get the feel of it first. I am still just playing with my LT 15 after 4 months, but have put some nice boards in the barn.
Welcome to the forum and have fun!

Mike

sparks · September 23, 2009, 04:46:50 PM

here is a PDF file on basic concept for sawing and drying lumber. Some of this info may help you. Thanks

fishpharmer · September 23, 2009, 05:14:00 PM

Welcome to the forum from another newbie with dumb questions.

The truth is that most everyone here was a newbie at one time. Except Jeff, Tom, DanG, WDH, Cutomsawyer, Bibbyman, Meadows Miller and a few others that weren't born, they crawled out of a knothole :D. 8)

Jeff · September 23, 2009, 06:46:32 PM

Well, I must say that is nicer then the time I was told I was crapped out on a log and hatched by the sun.

WDH · September 24, 2009, 07:52:45 AM

Quote from: fishpharmer on September 23, 2009, 05:14:00 PM
Welcome to the forum from another newbie with dumb questions.

The truth is that most everyone here was a newbie at one time. Except Jeff, Tom, DanG, WDH, Cutomsawyer, Bibbyman, Meadows Miller and a few others that weren't born, they crawled out of a knothole :D. 8)

Wow James, that is one of the the nicest comliments that I have ever received ;D.

DanG · September 24, 2009, 08:04:39 AM

I'm just proud to be included in that elite company! Some would say I never quite made it out of the knothole, though. :D

fishpharmer · September 24, 2009, 08:15:12 AM

I wrote that with trepidation, concerned it would not be taken as a compliment. And a compliment it was meant to be. 8) 8)

Of course coming from a knothole, one might run the risk if being known as a knothead.

Better than being layed by the buzzard's and hatched by the sun.

Toolman · September 24, 2009, 09:42:02 AM

There are no such things as dumb questions on the forum. The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. ;D

Tom · September 24, 2009, 10:24:36 PM

Who is Trepidation?

fishpharmer · September 24, 2009, 10:27:14 PM

Foreign exchange student ;) :D

DanG · September 24, 2009, 11:19:31 PM

:D :D :D :D

Magicman · September 25, 2009, 09:02:38 AM

The only "dumb" question is an "unasked" question. As has been suggested, just load up a log and start making cuts. Turn it, and make some more. Your "starting" height should always be determined by the thickness of the bottom board. The bottom board is actually the "target" that you are aiming at.

For now, just cut and enjoy it.......And Welcome to FF...... 8)

WDH · September 25, 2009, 05:52:10 PM

If you run into problems, maybe Trepidation can come over and help you out ;D.

MotorSeven · September 25, 2009, 08:25:17 PM

Majic, can you explain that "bottom board" thing? I have carved up a few logs, but I feel like I am not maximizing the boards per log.

RD

Chico · September 25, 2009, 09:18:47 PM

Let me qualify that answer IMO you should always use a mof Min opening face and always shim at the center of a log not outside in the better grade parts I would practice hitting a 5 " face at 8-9 ft for pines or any dimension or a 6 x 6 on HW you can get by with a a 3 smaller face for selects but I would suggest starting there and fine tuning later You will want to get every board of grade from any log and this will come in time I would also err on the smaller side of the face to begin with because you can open the log a little more if you should need to sawing is always about repetition the more you do it the more you won't realize your mind is making these decs. it will become second nature Now this is just my way and not to say anyone else is wrong we're just diff
Chico