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Converting the LT70 Hydraulic to 220V

Started by just_sawing, September 05, 2009, 09:03:10 AM

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just_sawing

What would be involved if I wanted to switch the LT70 Hydraullic to a stationary unit?
Bibbyman I thick you did this with a WM did you have trouble?
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Bibbyman

 



The conversion I did was on an LT40 Super but to convert the LT70 to a remote pump unit should be about the same.

The unit I had built is powered by a 7.5hp 3ph motor.  I guess you could get one built with a 220 single phase motor.





In this picture you can maybe note there are two hoses coming into the bottom of what was the pump box.  They just connected right up to the presure hose going to the valve body and the return hose.  (The old pumps were rememoved and the battery put in their place - another mod.)

Two things to keep in mind - 1) not to exceed the PSI of the WM valves and system.  2) not to exceed the GPM of the system.  As I remember on our LT40 Super, the PSI max was 2000 and the GPM was 6.

Another thought.  If you are running a mobile mill and want to keep the 12v DC pumps in place, you could just install quick couplings so you could switch from remote pump unit and back to the on-board pumps.

Here is a link to "Useful sawmill mods" where I wrote about the conversion.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,7789.msg269802.html#msg269802

The only problem we've had in the past 3-1/2 years was a hole wore in the return hose where it rubbed against the hole where it went into the little building where the pump sets.  It leaked out a lot of the oil before we figured out where it was going.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

pineywoods

I have done this to 2 LT40s, just took a job to do a third one. My setup is very similiar to Bibby's, biggest difference is I used surplus and junk-pile parts instead of new. 2 hp 110 volt motor driving a small (probably 4 gpm) pump. My motor, pump, and reservoir are bolted to the side of the frame with the hitch attach bolts. The only tricky part would be electrical, getting the pump to come on line using the woodmizer switch.  I just put a manual switch on the motor. I think Bibby lets the motor and pump run continuously and has a solenoid valve on the pump output. I think the woodmizer valve bank has a built-in high pressure relief valve, not sure about that.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Bibbyman

Quote from: pineywoods on September 05, 2009, 09:36:24 AM
I have done this to 2 LT40s, just took a job to do a third one. My setup is very similiar to Bibby's, biggest difference is I used surplus and junk-pile parts instead of new. 2 hp 110 volt motor driving a small (probably 4 gpm) pump. My motor, pump, and reservoir are bolted to the side of the frame with the hitch attach bolts. The only tricky part would be electrical, getting the pump to come on line using the woodmizer switch.  I just put a manual switch on the motor. I think Bibby lets the motor and pump run continuously and has a solenoid valve on the pump output. I think the woodmizer valve bank has a built-in high pressure relief valve, not sure about that.

We do run the pump continuosly but no solenoid valve.  We often run the pump when we're not even running the mill.  We do this to power the deck and load and level logs, etc.  Then we saw.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

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