How best to mend log chains?

Kelvin · August 21, 2009, 08:10:07 PM

Howdy all,
Here is a basic question. I've got some heavy duty log chains at auction sales and have lots of pieces and chains mended with a bolt for instance. I've only seen menders at TSC that are rated for very small loads according to the tag on them. How do you make a repair that is as strong as the chain? Would they be useable as load chains on the over the road trucks. Or would the DOT require no repairs or links? I've got some that look like to "D"'s hinged together that seem heavier than standard type links i see at TSC. I've got grade 80 3/8" transport chain, which i think is the rule here in michigan for logs and equipment. Help,
Thanks all,
kelvin

caz · August 21, 2009, 08:40:47 PM

Try these I did a search http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/u429514

pineywoods · August 21, 2009, 10:00:45 PM

I use a link called a cold shut. Shaped sorta like the letter C. One end has a hole that the other end fits into Put the 2 pieces of chain on it, then press it closed. Holds pretty good like that, but I weld the ends together. they are mild steel, so probably not as strong as the chain, but good nuff.

chucker · August 21, 2009, 10:28:40 PM

cut the old factory welds on the seam and weld the two joind halves back together.. just dont try and cut on the loop end and weld back together!! you will be pulling straight on the weld as bending metal, which we all know will snap after a few strong bends...

Reddog · August 21, 2009, 10:43:40 PM

QuoteOr would the DOT require no repairs or links?

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/truck/vehicle/cs-policy.htm

beenthere · August 21, 2009, 11:34:50 PM

Somewhere in that multi-page treatise, there prolly is something about repaired chains. :

:

Anyone have a clue? I scanned over it, but didn't find it. Maybe Reddog knows.

I would be concerned about a chain that has a broken link, that some of the other links are stretched. I've heard that stretched links in tie-down chains will fail the scrutinous eye of the highway patrol. That is, if they are looking for something to add to your grief.

rickywashere · August 21, 2009, 11:59:51 PM

could you not just add a hook to the ends of them ?and lock each to the other

Gary_C · August 22, 2009, 12:34:31 AM

Quote from: beenthere on August 21, 2009, 11:34:50 PM
Somewhere in that multi-page treatise, there prolly is something about repaired chains. : :

All vehicle structures, systems, parts and components used to secure cargo must be in proper working order when used to perform that function with no damaged or weakened components that could adversely affect their performance.

That's just another way of saying "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link." And each link has to be stamped with its rating.

So essentially only manufactured chain and certified links (with rating) to maintain its rating. Stretched links are a no-no.

shinnlinger · August 22, 2009, 12:46:12 AM

I did find some HD mender at my Hardware store that claim to be and looked to be stronger than the chain it is mending. I think that chain is over on my sheep tractor and will try to find out more next time I am over there. It basically is a beefy H that has hardened pins .

THe problem is they are north of $5 a pop so it is probably cheaper to buy new chain if you have alot of short pieces. Grade 70 20 footers were $30 at Home Depot last time I checked.

Cops or not, if your chain breaks and you have to deal with logs all over the road, let alone hurting or killing someone (maybe you), I don't know If I would use a questionable chain in such a critical application.

I saw a good sized excavator in a parking lot held down with ONE regular old grade 43 chain and a ratchet strap the other day. I wouldn't want to be around if that truck ever had to brake real hard.

amberwood · August 22, 2009, 08:36:59 AM

Kelvin. you need hammerlocks. described as 2 "d"s back to back with a common pin holding them together. They are hammered together and will not always come apart again after being fitted. Not cheaper but then neither is chain. Purpose built for joining chain.

DTR

Banjo picker · August 22, 2009, 09:28:07 AM

I'm with Beenthere on this toooooo much munbojumbo.....

Quote from: Gary_C on August 22, 2009, 12:34:31 AM
Quote from: beenthere on August 21, 2009, 11:34:50 PM
Somewhere in that multi-page treatise, there prolly is something about repaired chains. : :

All vehicle structures, systems, parts and components used to secure cargo must be in proper working order when used to perform that function with no damaged or weakened components that could adversely affect their performance.

That's just another way of saying "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link." And each link has to be stamped with its rating.

So essentially only manufactured chain and certified links (with rating) to maintain its rating. Stretched links are a no-no.

I agree with the part of no stretched links....but i would have to see a ruling on the stamped rating.....

I was told by an equipment dealer that i bought my Kubota M7040 from that new regulations required that you have 4 chains on a tractor and and additional chain for each attatchment .....so a back hoe would take 6 chains....And if you venture into Al....you had better have it just so.....Had a Dot officer give my son 7 tickets in my 3500 Dodge....it was empty....I did not have my numbers on it, and they had evidently not hit it off too well. ;)
The judge threw it all out except for $25.00.....I was too thankful to even ask what the 25 was for........Anyway what it boils down to ....is if they want to give you a ticket for pulling a load, you will get one or two or three, or how ever many they want to wright. Tim

Reddog · August 22, 2009, 09:47:04 AM

Quote from: Banjo picker on August 22, 2009, 09:28:07 AM....but i would have to see a ruling on the stamped rating.....

Yes it is in the link. Tells what the markings will look like.

Chico · August 22, 2009, 04:05:38 PM

Amberwood is right that's the only way to fix chains used correctly you won't break the chain on the repaired link before you break A reg link
Chico

Cedarman · August 22, 2009, 04:12:23 PM

Logs and lumber are shipped on trucks with nylon ratchet straps. I didn't think they were near as strong as chains. Or is it that it totally depends on what you are holding down that you need chains and boomers?

Gary_C · August 22, 2009, 05:06:21 PM

The US DOT tiedown regulations that have been adopted by most states does not specify type of tiedowns used. They set standards for ratings for different types and specify number of hold downs and total holdown tension. Usually total hold down force is a percentage of weight.

On loads of logs I have used cables, chains and nylon straps. By far the best is the nylon straps. When I stop for the manditory check within 50 miles, chains and cables are always loose, but nylon straps almost never. The reason is you can stretch the straps slightly and you cannot stretch chain or cable.

The only problem with straps is they fray easily and the DOT must be able to read the WLL and that is always iffy after they are used some. If they cannot read the tag, they downrate them to a lower level.

John Mc · August 22, 2009, 07:23:21 PM

Quote from: chucker on August 21, 2009, 10:28:40 PM
cut the old factory welds on the seam and weld the two joind halves back together..

Isn't grade 50/70/80 chain a heat treated alloy steel? If so, welding the links back together will significantly reduce their strength.

John Mc

Jeff · August 22, 2009, 07:47:52 PM

We were never able to use repaired chains for down the road tiedowns. Anything that broke was relegated to off road use. The last 10 years or so I was at the mill we used straps only for lumber. No damage to grade lumber that way.

Dana · August 24, 2009, 07:25:32 AM

Kelven I think you answered your own question within the title of the thread. They should now be mended to us as log chains. Buy the transport chains and save yourself from a new problem.

Kelvin · August 24, 2009, 08:26:31 AM

Thanks for the answers guys. Probably best to buy some new ones. My truck got ripped off, bunch of my new 3/8 grade 70 chains and straps. Augh... Guess those cheap ones are pretty cheap at the box stores...
See ya,
KP

LeeB · August 24, 2009, 11:03:34 AM

Your truck got stolen or just the stuff in it? Bummer either way.

Kelvin · August 24, 2009, 05:32:02 PM

Oh, no, not the truck. Nobody would think to steal that. I leave the keys in the ignition. Just a load of chains and straps. I"ve got lots of old parts hanging on the walls, but i think i'll get the real deal as my rig looks like easy pickin's for the weigh master the way it is. Kinda junky looking, but i try follow all the rules. One less thing to worry about.
Thanks all,
KP

rebocardo · August 25, 2009, 11:03:32 AM

I use connecting links such as this to repair chain or more often to connect two long chains together by removing the hooks. If you pick a connector that has a pin (one size up) that barely fits through your chain, then you usually get a load rating equal to or above the chains you are connecting.

For securing cargo I would probably buy ones with alloy pins that are "Made In the USA" with the load rating on them.

Banjo picker · August 25, 2009, 11:28:33 PM

This post it gona cost me money. :D :D :D . I am gona have to can several chains it appears....in the short go it will hurt a little, but in the long run I know I'll be meeting up with sir DOT eventually it will pay off then. Gona retire some to strickly off road, an save the good ones for strickly on road...Tim