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2100 CD Husy

Started by chipsfly09, July 06, 2009, 08:36:52 PM

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chipsfly09

I have 2 2100s-- one runs great-- other seems to always give problems--especially when it gets nice and warm-- It seems like bar oil is getting into the cylinder-- smokes like a skeeter fogger and if let sit compression becomes excessive.  Is this possible?  Saw with this problem is a "newer" model with chainbrake.  Would like to have this one run as good as the other w/o spending a bundle.  Maybe Ill be lucky and it will be something simple (it is not the gas/oil mix)  I thought once that a helper had put bar oil in the gas tank as the two caps are the same size-- that stuff happens-- but that was two years ago---

Thanks for the help.

Al_Smith

I have no idea how bar oil could find it's way into the cylinder because it's a gear driven pump from the crankcase as far as I can see .

As far as compression  ,that saw should have came with a compression release because it's an arm breaker to start . I had to put a D-handle on mine before it jerked my fingers out of the sockets or ripped my arm off completely .

---unless for some unknown reason there could be a leak in the oil tank.Possible I suppose .

chipsfly09

Thanks Al-- I'm worried there could be a crack in the oil tank or a crankcase seal that leaks when the saw is hot-- But even it that is the case would it be possible for bar oil to get into the cylinder?

I have one arm permanately longer than the other from starting that saw!

sablatnic

You could have a leaking gasket in your crancase, if it is built with the oil tank integral with the crancase, like the other Husqvarna saws. I am not sure about the 2100 though. It might have it's oil tank with the fuel tank. Can't remember.

Al_Smith

I can't honestly tell you how the tank is made .I never had a problem with mine .

The only thing I did to mine was rebuild the carb,turn a new bushing on my lathe for the starter and  replace the ignition coil . The D -Handle came later after it tried to cripple me for life .

I can't imagine a dang 99 cc saw with that much comp and no decomp .Now I know those Swedes are tough but they aren't that tough .

sablatnic

I have had a look around. The oil tank is integral with the fuel tank, which means, that your crankcase should be ok. But your oil pump could be defective. It would leak into the crankcase if seeping. As far as I can see, parts are no longer available from Husqvarna. I can't help either.

sablatnic

With a bit of luck it might just be the seal. Husqvarna #5012886-01. (Two fat o-rings might do the trick too).

Al_Smith

You can find new parts in most cases but they are a tad steep in price . Another option is E-bay of course .

These are pretty fast old saws ,lots of power etc . They oil real good using just the auto oiler .Fact is with the exception of the impulse type piston pump used on the old Macs ,the best oiler I've seen .In addition they have a thumb oiler which they all should have if you ask my opinion .

The one I own will actually over oil a 32" bar maybe longer but a 32 is the largest I have for that saw . I think they are rated for like a 60 " bar .

chipsfly09

Pull oil pump and replace seals in it if I can get them?  If lucky?

sablatnic

Yes. My guess is that it is the seals around two approx. 1/8" studs, that are leaking. It is one seal, but it should be possible to use two o-rings. Or maybe two bits of fuel tube around them. (I have done that on my Husq 180. Uses same type of pump).

chipsfly09


GASoline71

I know you said you think pre mix is not the issue... but... What oil ratio are you using?

Gary
\"...if ya mess with the bull... ya gets the horn.\"

Al_Smith

Well for what it's worth I run 32 to 1 and mine does not smoke , 8)

chipsfly09

I've always run 40:1

Cut4fun

I bet when it smokes like a freight train, it is a blue looking smoke from bar oil getting into the crankcase somehow.

Look at page 5 of this IPL. You will see the crankcase gasket. You could be getting bar oil from the oil tank into the crankcase.   http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%202100%20CD.pdf

chipsfly09

I'm going back to the drawing board with this saw before I do anything else.

My dad has had the saw-- I traded him the other 2100 (that runs good) and said I would try to see what was up on the smoker-- 

I'll start with some gas that I have mixed and see what she does-- I would be really happy if it could be a pre-mix issue-- I'm leaning towards the oil pump seal theory though--  I'll have to look back-- somebody mentioned an integral fuel oil tank-- a crack could cause bar oil and fuel to mix could'nt it?  I hope that is not what it is-- but if so-- I guess I could alwas start with a fresh tank of gas and run it out each time-- and see if that helps over the long haul.  With this big saw it is often run to make 1-2 cuts in really big wood and then put down-- possibly allowing seepage of oil into the gas-- then when started again-- maybe a few days or even weeks later) there would be more bar oil in the gas each time-- especially if more fuel is not added.  This is my second theory.  In any case, thanks for all the help.  I hope to get some time this weekend to play with it and see what happens.

Hilltop366

How about emptying the gas tank and remove the spark plug, then putting a little air pressure in the oil tank (air hose and rag to close off oil cover) and see if you can feel or see air in the gas tank or crank case.

Also does the saw smoke for the whole tank or does it clear up after a bit?

Al_Smith

It's not really the oil mixing with the fuel but more than likely just bar oil entering the crankcase .
The easiest  way to check for that is remove the bar ,dump the oil and see if it quits .

One of my old Macs does that after it sits a long spell,which it usually does . Because of the impulse type oiler the oil leaks a tad bit into the crankcase and smokes like a mosquito fogger for a few minutes  after a cold start .It stops after a short while .

sablatnic

The crankcase in the 2100 is just a crankcase. The oil tank is integrated in the fuel tank in picture E. (Both caps are close together at the rear of the body). The oil enters the pump via a tube behind the muffler. A leak here would make some smoke from the OUTSIDE of the muffler. The tank could have a leak between oil and fuel, as you say. I have seen it happen to a Jonsereds 510. You could drain the oil tank, fill the fuel tank, and check for leakage. Might last several days before you get a result. And please forget about the seal 501 28 86-01 as a leakage here would drain OUTSIDE the crankcase.

chipsfly09

I'm draining the oil tank today-- I started it-- sure starts good! would like to have it back in service-- Could buy gas masks for myself and all parties near the woodlot!

Cut4fun

One piece gas and oil tanks can be split and resealed. I just split and resealed a dolmar 166 one piece tanks.
The bar oil was getting into my fuel tank ruining my alky/nitro fuel, that was costing me $30 a gallon for the good stuff.  Good as new now.

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