LT-15 track extension build w/pic's

[MotorSeven]

I got started this week after collecting most of the stuff needed to build a 16' extension for my WM. So far, it all went well except trying to drill those 4 holes in the 1 1/8" round bar to match those on the WM section. There was nothing to index "top dead center" so 2 of the 4 were a little off & had to be "wall-erd out" some to allow the bolts to go thru. Once the new section was attached(before any Xbraces were added) it was out of square so I hooked a chain on one end to a ratchet strap on the other end & used a short piece of 2x4 for a pivot point in middle. Watching the string I ran from one end to the other, I ratcheted the strap and it pulled the track back square. I then welded in the first Xbrace.
I have 4 more Xbraces to go, the stops and the feet. I hope to get all that knocked out tomorrow. So far I am at a little over $500 in materials & with primer & paint the total should be around $550.












Getting it back to square.




First Xbrace welded in!

RD

[MotorSeven]

 


I had to build a custom jig to cut the Xbrace angle.




Drilling the 1 1/8" holes.




Tension pivot point.

[bandmiller2]

Moto you've done this type of work before I see ,good job.Round stock drilling is always a problem,it helps if you tack weld a piece of flat stock on the bottom drill all your holes then cut it off.The toughest part is keeping the frames from twisting when you weld them.I have yet to find a foolproof way.Frank C.

[MotorSeven]

Thanks for the tip on the round stock.....a day late ;D

Actually, I am just a hack welder....one of those guys that bought a mig and thinks he can weld ;). I've had my MM210 just under 3 years, and I learn something almost every time I pull it out. Yes, I have read about the twist from the heat/welds. I don't know if it is better to put a Xbrace at each end, then fill in the middle, or weld them in line from one end to the other. I am guessing that either way it can still twist. I am checking things with the level so much I fear I will wear it out. It's going to get interesting today because the welder will only reach about half way down the track before I will have to move it all & re-level it and I'm thinking 16' + the WM 6'8" section might be a little heavy..........

I really wanted a nice band to cut the metal, but Tractor Supply had the Clarke 14" chop saw for $116.....messy but effective! Using it I see why welders wear a Do-rag....almost set my head on fire a couple of times before I put one on .

RD

[KyTreeFarmer]

Great looking job on your extension!! Practice makes perfect on the welding you know. The more extensions you build the better you get.....hint hint!!
Mike

[NHHillbilly]

Have never tried this, but One of my freinds is into repairing a rebuilding old military vehicles.  All his welding is done with at torch still.  He swears that if you soak papertowles or newspapers and place it all around the weld and keep it wet while you weld, the metal will not distort it will keep the heat right at the imediate area. 

[Sprucegum]

The heat is the culprit that twists the frame.

I would tack all the braces in first then then work down the line, doing both ends on each bracket to keep the weld deposits working evenly against each other.

[MotorSeven]

I got all the braces in today & made one error....I violated my own "Put a string on everything" rule. I relied on the level for the bunks instead of stretching another string and I have 3 that staircased...1/8, 1/4 & 3/16  . I think I will just pick up some flat bar in those sizes and tack it on top. My dogs won't fit on those 3 if I do that, but I don't think it's a big deal.
I did alternate the welds, and did get some twist. It's on the off side and it twisted underneath towards the center of the mill, so it shouldn't effect anything(fingers crossed). I tried to set up the drive flat bar, but without feet, it was impossible to get things level, so I pick up enough threaded rod tomorrow to make 10 feet.

RD

[bandmiller2]

I have found when welding especially pieces at a right angles don't butt them togather leave say 1/16 "tack one side then you can use a square and be able to move it square then tack the outher side.This also gives you better weld penetration.Tacking everything then double checking and alternate your welds so you don't get any one area too hot. Frank C.

[MotorSeven]

 

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

lookn good Moto  ;) ;D 8) what length will you be able to saw now Mate  ??? ;) I hate weldn myself thats why i use to try and avoid it but im gettn better nowadays ;) ;D 8) 8)

Reguards Chris

[bandmiller2]

Looking good Moto,you may want a little more clearance between your welding and that quilt to the left in your picture.A little garage fire will not endear your mill to the wife.I always have a bucket of water or an extingusher close at hand.Frank C.

[MotorSeven]

Meadow, it will give me a 27' capacity. Looking back I should have just bought everything in 20' length....would have had less waste, and a 31' capacity........
BandM, I have almost set myself on fire a few times............ :D

It looks like the mill will be on hold for a couple of weeks....headed to SD to some enduro riding. I'll update when I get back on it!


RD

[MotorSeven]

Back from my trip & working on the sections feet. 6 installed today, 4 more to go........

[MotorSeven]

Oh and yes I am aware that my welds look like chicken dropings......... ;D

[nas]

Chicken droppings is better than bubble gum welds I was told 8)

[Sprucegum]

Another real light pass along the top will make those welds look right purty, and they will do the job just the way they are too.

Nice work.

[MotorSeven]

Yeah Spruce, I found out how well it holds after having to grind out one side of the the second cross brace when I found my rails were just a tad too close together. It was not fun...........and that resulting re-weld really looks scary

RD

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

It'll all look the same tho when shes coverd in sawdust mate  ;) :D :D :D ;D ;)

Reguards Chris

[MotorSeven]

All 10 feet are on, along with the drive and idler rails. I have the two log stops to do, then it's off to the paint shop(front yard ;D)..........







RD

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Looking great Top Job Mate ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) I see we both use the same paint shop  ;) :D :D Get some pics of it set up with that first 27' log we made extesions for the jonsered band mill i had as a kid that would cut to about 50' but it started at 20' then 42' and we kept on ading as we needed extra length untill we ended up at the 50' mark fro the log homes dad and i use to build  ;)

Reguards Chris

[fishpharmer]

BandM, I have almost set myself on fire a few times............ :D

Save that for the pigs (i.e. pigroast).  Welding over concrete with a few blankets around is still safer than welding over dry dead grass in the winter.  Ask me how I know? :-[ ;D

MotorSeven, nice work there.  The welds look great.  I use the old tried and true Gorilla weld technique myself.  Big, ugly but strong ;D

[MotorSeven]

Gorilla welds...ha, I like that one!

Sheeze Chris.....50'....holeey haysoose, how the heck do you get an entire TREE onto the mill???  Y'all are just crazy down there in Aussie-land.......make us rednecks look like choir boys :D
G'day back at 'ya......

RD

[apm]

Hey Motorseven, where'bouts in Northeast Tennessee? I'm in Butler (suburb of Mountain City). That's about as far Northeast as you can get.

Greg

[MotorSeven]

Greg, I'm about 40 miles N of I-81(past Morristown) in Hancock County....& about 20 miles from VA as the crow flys.

RD