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Project saws

Started by Ironmower, June 21, 2009, 07:18:04 AM

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Ironmower

I was at a friends shop yesterday, he has been in the loggin business most of his life,lookin around his shop there are saws everywhere. Most are runners, but then there's a pile ( and mean a PILE) of saws that he said, needs rebuilt. So of coarse I asked why he don't rebuild them? Not enough time, he replies.
     We got talkin about them and I told him I've been needin at least one big saw, right now it's my 365 husky and of coarse it's taxin on it cuttin some of these big sycamores and silver maples(5 ft in diameter).
     I don't have the money to just go out and buy a new $1000.00 saw for my side business. Well, he started pullin saws out of the pile, the first was a 288 XP husky, needs cylinder kit. the next was a 394 XP husky, needs at least rings. then he pulled out a sachs-dolmar PS 8000 ( not for sure on model no. haven't looked at it to close yet) supposedly needs a cylinder kit too.
      As we talked a-bit, I asked if he would come off one of them, he replied with, I didn't pull them out just to look at. He said, put them in your truck, you can have them. 8) 8)
    Shoot, I'm like a kid with a new bike. OK, Are all these saws worth rebuildin? The dolmars I'm not real familar with. It is on the heavy side compared to the 394.
I will likely start with the 394 first, is there any tips or tricks when I rebuild? Do you think it would be best to go ahead and do everything, bearings, crank seals, ect.? These will be work saws for me, now granite, they won't be run 12hrs-a-day, 6 days a-week. I have several different bar and chain combos, 24" 28" and 36" with skip tooth chains, these saws should handle them alright eh?
WM lt35 hd 950 JD

Dave Shepard

That 394 will handle the 36" bars, I'm not familiar with the others. Here is my thread on rebuilding my 394. It was a real learning experience. I'm looking for another 394 project, or a pile of parts, if you decide not to fix it up. ;)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Ironmower

Thanks Dave, I'm sure I'll be refering to it often.

Is yours still runnin? What's your thoughts on Baileys aftermarket parts?
   
If I see it's out of my ability, I'll PM you, if that's alright?
WM lt35 hd 950 JD

Rocky_J

IMO most saws don't need new crank seals unless the crank is worn/ damaged. And if that's the case, it usually isn't worth fixing. I've heard many good saw mechanics say to do a pressure test first to see if the seals are good but I've never been smart enough to figure out how to build a pressure tester. I think filling the crankcase with gas and letting it sit overnight might tell you if the seals were bad though.

Al_Smith

There are several ways to make a pressure tester but the most simple is by using a blood pressure cuff .

More times than not though if it is seal issue it will be on the clutch side of the saw .Often times it's caused by a loose bearing which doesn't neccessarily mean there is crankshaft damage .Just that the saw for whatever reason has a worn bearing that needs replaced .

Replacement of same is not really a big deal but much more intailed than most people want to attempt .

Back to the seal .A real easy way to check for a bad seal is my letting the saw idle ,providing it will  then spray some starter fluid around the clutch area .Often times a leaker will pick up some of the ether and increase in speed . Depends on the saw though as some like Stihl would have to have the clutchs removed to get into the seal area  because of their design .

Rambling on .On some Husqvarnas the bearings can be replaced without splitting the case .It takes a special bearing puller that goes between the balls  and grabs the bearing race . On those models,2100 for example the seals are held in place by a removable flange . I can't say if this is so on a 394 or not  ,never worked on one .

Dave Shepard

My saw is still running great. It doesn't get run everyday, but it doesn't get babied when it is run. I polished the "ports" on the Baileys piston, although I don't think that was really necessary. One thing I should have done on the piston, is to cut a little divot in the pin boss so that I could get a pick behind the retaining clip. I had to remove my piston, and to do so I had to drill behind the clip.

The 394 uses internal bearings, you will have to split the case to replace them. There are pictures of the puller in a couple of threads, including my teardown thread, with part numbers. Cut4Fun also posted an Ebay link for them, but they are cheaper from the dealer.

Feel free to PM me any questions you have, but if you post them in this thread, you will have access to more expertise than I have. :) Good luck! The 394 is a great saw.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

mud

I need a friend like that!
272
044
359
350
2045
and a few splitting mauls

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