3rd try, sawmill extension pics

[northernss454]

Third try uploading pics!! so here is a pic of my new toy with my 24' bed extension I made which gives my a total cutting length of over 37'.  I already cut my cap logs and my ridge logs for my cabin and it cut perfect within 1/16" in 24'.   My 24' extention cost under $500 as I did all the welding myself.  I love my new toy, wish I had got it years ago.  Many questions to follow as I have some custom cutting to do. 

Thanks

[Jeff]

Yer getting there. The photos are actually in your gallery, so good job on that. Just go to your gallery and get the code to paste in a post now. Please keep them in this thread as there is no need to start a fourth try thread, as we will get it figured out right here.

Here's one of them. 

[DanG]

The extension looks great, Northern!  Looks like a pro did it. 8) 8)  That LT15 is a great little mill, but it looks, ahh, well, a bit humble with the standard short track.  With the extra length, it looks like a well armed fighting machine.  Tack on another 12' of track, and you can create a niche for yourself, 'cause nobody else around can cut 36' beams. ;D

On the pic thing;  You've already done all of the hard part.  To get them into a post, just go up to your post above and click on "go to my gallery" and it will open in another window.  Just come back here and start your reply.  Say what you want until you want to insert the pic, hit "enter" a time or two to separate the pic from the text, then switch over to the gallery window.  Click on the pic you want there, then look below it and find a line in green type that says "click here to copy...yada...yada.  When you come back to your post window, you should see some jibberish that you didn't type.  That jibberish is the photo code, and is all you will see until you post your reply.  If you don't find the jibberish, then go back to the gallery window and find the white box with the jibberish in it, highlight, and copy it, then paste it in where you want the pic to appear.

I hope this helps you, as I feel the pain of anyone who has a bit of trouble figureing it out.  It took me several years, but I was blessed with a higher than normal brain density index. ;D

[thecfarm]

Nice job on the pictures and nice job on the mill. You can also preview your post and the picture will come up than too. If posting more than one picture in a post,hit the enter key a couple times to leave some white between your pictures. This way they won't look like they run into each other.

[fishpharmer]

N SS454  The mill and extension looks great!  Don't give up on posting pics.  Its sorta like riding a bike :D  getting them in the gallery was the hard part.

[northernss454]

Okay guys I will try again,Dan total length now is already just under 37'.My longest logs on my next job will be 40 footer so might have to make another extension.Waiting on a phone call today as I might be getting all the old trees from city that they cut down so thats exciting hope it all works out. Thanks again guys

[davemartin88]

Those extensions look great- I had an LT15 with one factory made extension and it really made the mill more usable.

[DanG]

 8) 8) 8)

I was thinkin' that looked like more than 24'.  You gonna be the long board king in those parts! ;D

I was getting a lot of logs from the City when I was sawing.  Now that I'm starting back up, I hope they will do the same.  If you don't have one, think about getting a metal detector.

[beenthere]

northern

A couple things to do to make it easier sawing, will be to saw out some timbers to replace the concrete under the frame (they can be shorter so stepping over or around them won't be necessary) and get a LogRite hook (you will appreciate that more than removing the concrete 'trippers).   

Good on the pics, and we look forward to seeing some of the long timbers being cut.

[moonhill]

I liked the concrete dunnage, I would burry them in the ground just as they sit leaving a bit above grade, the sawdust will soon cover them.  It will be easier to roll logs onto the mill as well, but I see equipment around. 

A second benefit to long track is multiple logs can be placed and with a small crew the mill will not shut off, meaning more time the blade is in the wood, more production.  I sometimes pull the edgings off and place them ahead of the log for edging at that time.  I don't have to re handle them.

Tim

[northernss454]

Thanks all,I used the heavy concrete pillers because when I welded the extension it warped a bit so I need something with some weigth to pull it straight.I just lagged the bed to pillers and pulled it straight as a arrow.My own fault I should of had another set of sawhorses underneathe bes when I wleded the bed together,then she would not of warped.Just cutting cor ners oh well.Burying them in the ground is a great idea I wish I would of thought of that.Will see how it goes,if its too diffucult I will bury them.
Thanks again

[Fla._Deadheader]

You can always saw them pillars off, WITH the appropriate tool  : : ;D ;D ;D

  I would leave them on top of the ground, so clean up is easier. Nice set up

  What are the uses for such long logs ???

[northernss454]

I am building a hand scribed cabin and will use mill to cut sill, cap, purlin and ridge log.  Whatever logs are not used or are too crooked to be used will be cut into dimensional lumber.

Thanks

[moonhill]

It is a catch 22, the height of the mill, if you have it lower you can step all around and not have to climb over or lift your foot as high to get from one side to the other, this takes energy through out the day.   This is important with a long track, it can be a long way around other wise.  I am always sweeping and shoveling sawdust and bark to keep it clean.  If just left it will build up and then you will be at the same point, you will burry the saw.  You will have to move it at some point, it being the saw or the sawdust.  Also the lower the track the fewer skinned shins you will have.  My mill sits on 4" blocking on a slab.  I also have to roll by hand.     

I welded a 20' extension for my mill and was told the heat form the welding would distort the frame, so I countered the expected warping and put a dip in the track, well it stayed there.  I chopped it up for parts on the new extension, and longer this time, 40' stock, just fewer welds farther apart, it came out perfect.

Tim   

[MotorSeven]

Your Xbraces look bigger than standard....do your dogs fit on them, or did you make something custom? Also I dont see the flip up stops...
I start on mine this week. I bought steel for flip up stops and the round bar that the bolts go into to hold the two tracks together. I haven't yet figured out how to drill those 1 & a quarter inch holes thru the track as I don't have a bit that big for the drill press. I may have to mark them & take them into a machine shop & let them do it. Other than those holes I think I can manage the rest. I did notice that you painted the track the drive side rolls on...how is that holding up? The factory uses some type of metal coating...not sure what it is but it is durable.
Is that "Chevy Engine orange" paint ?

Moon, I've been using a Stihl blower to blow the dust off. Works great, but wear a mask I stay up-wind ;)

RD

[Hilltop366]

maby a good hole saw in your drillpress would cut the 1 1/4" holes?

if my calculations are correct the drill speed should be 320 rpm or a little less also use cutting oil for steel.

if my calculations are not correct someone should chime in and fix it please.

I used the formula:      RPM = CS(cutting speed) x 4            CS for steel being 100
                                                D(diameter)                            D = 1.25"

[1938farmall]

hill's formula is fine, but i wouldn't use more than 50 for cs(cutting speed). al

[northernss454]

Hey Motor,I painted the 3/8x2" flat bar caused I used steel,woodmizer uses alimnum,the only advantage i see is it dont rust, a bit of grease on rail when paint wear off it will be fine..Yes I used a bit to drill the 1/18 holes,but hole saw would work too as its only 1/8 thick. I am working on my flip up stops,I have cut 4  24 foot logs logs so far no problem the weight of the log holds itself,I just use the 2 log dogs on factory bed.
My X braces are made with 2x6 tubing,I never used channel like woodmizer I just bought 3 full lengths of 2x6 tubing spaced them at 3 feet and never had any waste left over worked well.If anyone wants closer pics let me know I will get them for you.For the paint i took a sample and got paint to match exactly.30 bucks a gallon.
Later all

[bandmiller2]

Jolly good job northie,you could slide the mill over to the side of the sleepers you walk on and have an unobstructed trail.Any longer track and you could haul frieght.Have you ever thought of adding a power feed,after seeing your work we all know you could do it.Frank C.

[thecfarm]

More questions.What's going on with the peeled poles? Looks like there are some long ones there. Are you building something with them in the back ground?
I reply #5 I noticed a 2 wheel axle in picture #1 and 2.What's that for? Looks like a drop axle.
Picture number 3 had a four wheel trailer that has posts to haul logs?
I picture #2 I noticed a boom.I that how you move the logs?
For advertising you need to put a long log that have been sawed on there and have someone stand there to compare size. That would look good,if not just for bragging rights.

[MotorSeven]

Now why didn't I think of a hole saw?? :
Thanks....I'll post a thread on my extension build soon......

RD

[northernss454]

Hello,I built a small log sauna,handscribled,peeled and done the old fashioned way.The long pealed logs are for my log cabin that I will be building here soon.Thelittle trailer I made was to move logs around in winter,as my skid stear would not lift it so I put on end on trailer and move around.I have a old austin western crane I used to assemble cabin.
Yes I will post a picture as soon as I cut my first 35 foot sill log.
Thanks for all the compliments.
Humm power feed sounds interesting,but I have no idea how they work,as I have never seen one,would a 12 volt power winch work????