Arch skidder vs 3 point skidder

[WMcGinn]

Hi,  I'm brand new to this forum, so I hope this is the appropriate place to post this question.   I'm going to fabricate something to help me get logs out of my hilly woodlot.  I've got a large ATV, and also a small Utility Tractor.   I'm wondering what will work best for working on unlevel ground,  An arch type skidder I can use with either the ATV or tractor,   or a 3 point hitch skidder attacment for the tractor?   

[tonto]

Welcome to the forum WMcGinn. You will find a wealth of knowledge here on the forum. Do a search on ATV arches and you see many home made and ones that are manufactured. I would like to build an ATV arch for my Polaris also. Don't know much about 3-point hitch set ups but I am sure they would work great if you have the tractor already. Good luck, Tonto.   

[thecfarm]

Welcome to the forum.What size tractor you have,in hp please,4wd?I have a 3pt winch on the back of my 40 hp 4wd tractor.Since you have a ATV and a tractor I would go with the 3 pt.Just because of the hyds.But I have been around tractors all my life and know what they can do and can't do.I know there are many that do it with a ATV but that is all they have.I have uneven ground to to deal with.I just winch to me and try to make my trails straight up and down.There is one place I hauled in some rocks and dirt to make it level for me.We use to use a 2wd Ford NAA,20 hp in the woods.Have to be REAL CAREFUL doing this.If you have never done any of this,be it a ATV or a tractor,take it slow and take small logs.You talk about making something.Takes a lot of chains to get a log from a hard place to you.We bought a 3pt winch and it is so much easier and quicker.Easier is really the word.Saves so much work from the way we use to do it.If the log you are twitching catches up on a rock,stump,root you risk the chance of flipping the tractor over.Take it slow and don't be in a hurry and it will all be fine.Realize anything can go wrong at any time.

[beenthere]

welcome to the forum.

I've both, ATV and 4wd Utility.  My question to you...can you move around your hills with both your ATV and your Utility?

Given the two, I choose the 4wd and the 3pt easily over the ATV. I'd only add the ATV to the equation if hauling for long distance (1/4 mile or more) over good trails. Then the faster moving ATV would work well.

I have the quick hitch on the 3pt, and toss the logging tongs on the hook, and add a few choker chains to reach out and get most logs. Sometimes use a couple lengths of cable and snatch block to pull logs up to the tractor location.

Pic of my setup.  For me, I'm not for want of anything more. And with the loader on, don't have issues with flipping the tractor.








This one had the snow plow on for that time of year, but usually the loader is on with the forks.

[John Woodworth]

What ever you use make sure you have good roll over protection eevn if you have to add to anything pre-existing, I've rolled skidders before and was pinned under once and it,s not a happy time. Even with all theri protection at times it's not enough, things happen so quick.

Good luck and take care.

[nas]

Welcome to the forum. 8)
If you have a hilly woodlot I would go with the 3ph winch.  The winch is great for pulling logs out where you can't get to with the machine.  The weight of the tractor will also make it possible to pull bigger loads up and down those hills

Nick

[WMcGinn]

Thanks, All, 
This is some good info.   My ATV is a Yamaha Grizzly 600 4x4, the utility Tractor is a 32 hp JD 4310 hydro 4x4 with a loader.  I've got both bucket and Forks.  I agree with the comments about safety.  I don't know if its just my CUT or all of them, but if you get on much of a slope it would easily tip over.(Have had some close calls already)   I try to maneuver straight up/down if possible. 
We had an unbelievable ice storm in NE Arkansas early this year and while I did have some good access trails throughout my place the landscape has changed substantially. Job 1 is now going to be cutting some access paths I can use to get in to salvage some of the rootwadded and damaged timber.   
Based on what I've seen and your feedback I'm leaning toward a 3 point type skid system.  I think I can have my local Welding shop fabricate that cheaper than the arch, and invest that extra money into a winch of some type. 

Thanks again for your input, and I hope to contribute to the forom as well.   

Wm       

[sjfarkas]

put water in your tires and the extra weight so low to the ground dramatically increases stability.

[WMcGinn]

put water in your tires and the extra weight so low to the ground dramatically increases stability.

You know,  that's a great idea,   I'm sure they'll need some type of antifreeze.   Is that something typically is a do it yourself task,  or have it done somewhere.    I'm thinking it would take some type of special fitting or tool to get the water into the tire?       Also,  do I need to do both front and back?     I'm thinking this would help with traction alot too....

Thanks, 
Wm

[beenthere]

WMcGinn
I've a 4300 and did the tires myself, with windshield washer fluid. Cheaper than antifreeze.

Took the tires off, laid them on the ground and broke the top bead. Propped up the center of the rim so the lower bead didn't leak, and poured in the fluid. If I remember right, about 30 - 35 gal in each tire. After filling, raised the tire up to close the top bead, and filled with air. A tie-down strap might help here around the perimeter of the tire. I didn't need to use one tho.

There are fluid fittings to use as well. Takes longer to pump the fluid into the tire than just pour it in.

I only filled the rear tires. Have never felt a need to do the front ones.

[sjfarkas]

The tire shop we use will do it for us on our farm tractors.  They do it with an adapter that screws to the valve stem and a garden hose.  They always do it on the tractor because the tires are too heavy to lift.  They set the beed then start filling with water.  They keep the valve stem at the top and have to let some air out as it's filling.  They top the pressure off with air.  We've bought an adapter to do it, but I don't think we have had to use it.  Anti freeze is a good idea.  With 8 pounds per gallon of water you can add a lot of weight.

[scottedward58]

we had calcium put in all 4 of our tractors tires when we replaced the rear tires don't they do that everywhere?

[beenthere]

Calcium is heavier (by about 3# per gallon heavier) than the window washer fluid, but also is corrosive and can be more of a nuisance if you spring a slow leak (causes a rusted rim). Window fluid is a might bit cheaper too.

Just some trade-offs to keep in mind.

The beat juice is heavier than the Calcium, but more expensive. I think its called Rimguard or similar.

Wheel weights are another option.

A winch system like the Farmi will add ballast too.

[park ranger]

I use a JD like yours at work and noticed as we got it from the dealer the back wheels were set real narrow.  I just swapped the wheels and it widened the wheelbase quite a bit.  It feels much better now. 

[thecfarm]

I use calcium in my tires.You need tubes in your tires.That beet juice stuff is nasty when you have a leak to work with.My tires are very heavy when loaded.The only safe way to handle them is with another tractor loader really.I've done it without before and it's a real bother.We parked it under a tree and used chain falls.Now I have someone come right to the house.Just had a tube put in for $160.My rear tires are spaced out at 6 feet.I hope you don't have the turf tires on your tractor.Probably you have 4 ply tires.When they go,buy at least 6 plys.You are cutting on your own land,so make your trails to work with for years and keep the brush out of them.

[mike_van]

Wm - Another thing to consider is tire chains. Many skidders run them year round, as the forest floor can be one of the slickest places around. Add a steep grade, and wow, there you go.............

[jander3]

I have a tractor and ATV.  The ATV with log arch works better for me (my property is wooded and hilly).   

[beenthere]

park ranger
What was your Deere model?

jander3
A big difference between tractors in this case. Your trike style and his 4wd utility style, along with low center of gravity and the 3pt lift are worlds apart in the woods. 

[jander3]

Beenthere,

You are probably right. I only move that tractor with the tricycle front end on stable level ground.   Makes me nervous. 

[WMcGinn]

I'm going to check if swapping the tires might help widen things... I did eyeball this once but ti didn't look like  would help.  I checked local tire store and its about 120 bucks to get both back tires weighted with and Alchol water mixture.     

[LeeB]

The alcohol is most likely methanol. Hazardous stuff and also the same thing used in washer fluid.

[beenthere]

The tires on my Deere 4300 are Industrial (R4) and can only widen them an inch or two by switching sides. That is what I did to get clearance for tire chains.
Your Deere 4310 have the Industrial? There is a little less traction with these tires over the Ag tires with bars, but the ply is higher for woods work.
However, the Ag tire rims have a lot more width adjustment when switching them than the Industrial rims.

I don't consider the washer fluid hazardous, as it is allowed for use on the windows of cars.  I don't figure that can be too hazardous. 

[LeeB]

I thought about that after I posted. Straight methanol is hazardous. Watered down, isuppose not. It is poisonous and will absorb through the skin. Maybe not labeled hazordous but its not truly friendly stuff either.

http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/m2015.htm

[shinnlinger]

I say your tractor will get more done with less work.  Mine is just a whistle larger than yours (34 horse ag tires 4x4) and it has done me very well.

As for loading tires, take a 2ft chunk of 4 inch PVC and put two cleanout ends on both ends.  Drill out both and mount an air compressor input on one and an airchuck on the other.  Jack up your tractor enough to get the weight off the tires and spin the tire so the stem is at 12:00 and remove the valve if you want for the first few times.  Then take one cleanout out and fill the pvc thing with washer fluid and blow it in at a gallon or so a pop.

[WMcGinn]

Your Deere 4310 have the Industrial? There is a little less traction with these tires over the Ag tires with bars, but the ply is higher for woods work.

Yes, I've got the Industrial tires on it, like in the pics above in your setup....  I also use it to mow my large lawn and the ag lugs would tear stuff up too bad. 

I'm going to look at fabricating one of these PVC rigs to fill the tires.... and use washer fluid,  Any recommendations on how many gallons to install per side?     15 gallons per side at $3 per gallon would put it around 90 bucks...   Maybe the cost the tire shop quoted me isn't too bad afterall .     

[4genlgr]

I have a JD 990 with a 351 Frami that i used  in the woods the last 4 years. when i got it i had the dealer set the tires to the widest setting front and rear for stability. also added valve stem protectors made out of pipe and caps with a big nut welded on for the rear and pipe with two 5/16th bolts welded to the sides and a plate over the top on front because of clearance needs    did not fill the tires   havn't had traction or tippy problems , used chaiins on the rear in the snow. which in and of itself presented its own problems  have also been on relitively flat ground. I tend to pull full lenght trees more than pre-bucked but the steeper the ground the more in woods bucking i do. long stuff can get hung up and get leverage on the machine easier

having a winch will let you pull those trees in the really steep places up to your roads to skid them out  knowing your machines capabilities will help in the safety of the operation and working hills with anything is dangerous but can be done with planning and careful thought

[park ranger]

The tractor that I moved the wheels out is a JD 4120.  They have beet juice in them but the tractor has a grapple on the front bucket(the optional larger one) and when moving logs one or the other tires always seemed to be airborn even with a heavy airrator on the back.  Wider has been a real improvement.  We also put rebar grill on it after someone ran it into the burn pile and messed up the screen. 

[WMcGinn]

the tractor has a grapple on the front bucket(the optional larger one)  

That is a sweet attachment.....  I'd love to have the Grapple....   would have made my life over these months since the ice storm much easier.

[beenthere]

I'd like a grapple too, but its extra weight and the reduced weight of what our size Deere would pick up, would make it almost useless.  A thumb over the forks would be of more interest to me than a grapple, and fit the 30+ hp size tractor.    Keep the load closer in for more lifting power.

[WMcGinn]

I've thought about this thumb over the forks idea....at least I'm thinking were talking bout the same thing... A stationary bar or claw that you could pinch stuff up against using the forks or bucket.  I've seen them on backhoes, but not on a front loader like mine.  Is it comething you have to fabricate? Or is there one available comercially?   Does anyone have a pic of a setup like that?  I'm not sure how it would hook up. 

Wm

[beenthere]

Probably something that needs to be fabricated, at least not available as a Deere option that I know of.

I re-fab'd my Deere forks so they could be picked up by the 3pt quickhitch. Use that for moving firewood on pallets. Some pics in my gallery. Added the hyd. cyl. top link to make the 3pt much more flexible too.

If I would fab something for a top thumb, I'd want it to stand straight up to be out of the way of moving pallets of firewood, but then come down far enough to hold a small log on the forks. Might take some calculating or some sketch-up to get that figured out.

[4genlgr]

there are brush rakes or grapples manufactured that replace the bucket on front. hunt the web you'll find them. saw one at the Bangor show price was around 2000 + but it looked pretty rugged. think with a JD you have to get an adapter plate for mounting.

[sjfarkas]

We have a small deer and we had a quick attach put on the front so we can switch from bucket to a 60" wide grapple to forks.  It's the same quick attach as a skidsteer.  We also had an aftermarket hydraulic setup added to the front.  It's all in the gearmore catalog.  There are kits you can buy to add a grapple to a set of forks.  we moved quite a bit of material with the little deer and the grapple, but when we got a bobcat T300 we forgot all about the deer. 

One more thing, we have water in the tires with wheel weights too.

[shinnlinger]

HI,

I would experiment with a few different ratios of water and windshield washer fluid in the freezer and see how far you can dilute and still not freeze to make your fluid go farther.  I think you can do better than $3 a gallon also.  With the  PVC fill thingie, make the air chuck hose long enough so you can use it like a funnel for the first half of the tire

Westendorf makes a grapple that replaces the bucket and uses the bucket curl cylinders to open and close.  NOt as ideal as an independent system, but cheaper (under $1000) and easier to plumb (you don't )  and since it is lighter than the bucket, you gain some lift capacity,

I will say though every time I consider putting a loader grapple on my 34 horse tractor I come to the conclusion that It wont be that much better than my forks for the money/time spent.  If I was making $$$ with my rig that would be one thing, but for what I use it for now the forks get it done.  Maybe not as fast and sure I wish I had a grapple from time to time, but I cant justify one for the size machine I have.

[John Woodworth]

Your best bet on your tires is to spend the money and have the tire store people put calcium in your tires, if they are tubeless have them put tubes in the tires. You don't have to fill them full, discuss with the tire people your wants and needs and how your going to use the machine and let them judge how much to use.

Remember the more weight in the tires the slower the machine, one of my skidders only has 1/3 full and the other same machine are full and there is no comparison to which is quicker and more agile.

[beenthere]

John
Don't understand why calcium chloride would be his best bet.  : :

Seems there are trade-offs to consider, being weight per volume, corrosiveness of the fluids, cost of the fluids, and DIY variations.

Had a tractor with calcium chloride and the resulting rusting rims. Won't go that way again. I figured going with windshield washer fluid for starters, then planned to add wheel weights if more weight needed. I have only added the ballast box (which isn't on for logging). No wheel weights needed yet.

I used 30 gal of windshield washer fluid in each tire. It was rated to -25°F. Added water to bring the total fluid up to the valve stem when it was a 12 oclock high. At that time, WWF was a buck a gallon.

[thecfarm]

You talk like the rims will rust right off the tractor while working it.  :  I have a 1954 Ford NAA that was bought new by my Father and calcium has  been used since 1954 and the rims are still the original ones. Yes, they are rusted some but nothing bad. Most times it will rot out around the valve stem first. When we bought the '92 we put calcium into the tires .I feel it's the only way to go. But this is a working tractor too. This has been worked from day one. Probably with what you do the WW works fine. Some of us just need more weight to get the job done.

[beenthere]

You talk like the rims will rust right off the tractor while working it.  :  ................

Didn't mean to suggest that scenario.    It is just a possibility and not worth the risk (to me) when max possible weight of fluid in the tires is not necessary.  Meant just something to consider.   ;D

[sparky]

I am into antique tractors and one of the most common issues with older tractors is that the rims are rusted out due to the corrosive nature of calcium based fluids. The guys I associate with get used anti-freeze from auto salvage yards for use for ballast in their tires. Most of the time the salvage yards will donate the fluid rather than face the cost of getting rid of it thru proper channels. The farmers with radial tractor tires are limited to about a 55% fill with fluid, so they use anti-freeze as they need to stay below the theoretical maximum.

Sparky

[WMcGinn]

Thanks for all the info guys.    I did locate a fellow who has a Tractor one size smaller than mine, a 4210 I think,   an he needs to add ballast to his tires as well.     We're either going to fabricate the loading device as was described above...or he did mention he knew of someone who had one made already.    Planning to use the WWfluid... May not give me the weight of calcium,   but at least I won't have the rust or potential rust issues to worry about...  Plus I think this eliminates the need to add tubes... which I can't do myself.   

Putting the valve stem at 12oclock and filling up to the stem sounds like a lot of fluid,  and alot of weight.... but It's plenty easy enough to take out I guess.   This tractor does double duty to mow my lawn,  so I don't want to tear up the ground too bad... or cause marks if the ground isn't bone dry.

Thanks again for all the info....   And thanks for all the info I'm getting reading Forestry forum. 


Wm     

[shinnlinger]

Hi,

PLease DON'T put used anti freeze in your tires.  Yes it will work fine, but if you rip a valve stem off or somehow puncture a tire you will leave the hazardous stuff all over your yard or wherever.

If you are looking for cheap, I  am considering putting used fryer grease in a garden tractor.  I was thinking it wouldn't weigh as much, but it has been pointed out here you can have too much weight so I might leave some in the sun to liquify it and give it a go.

[beenthere]

What will the fryer grease be like in your tire when it is a solid blob from cooler weather or downright cold?
Garden tractor is moving slow most of the time, but on a side hill the flop you get might flip the tractor easier, seems to me.

On a tractor at road speeds, one wouldn't want any flop of blob going over the top. That used to happen with fluid loaded tires at high speeds (coasting downhill or gearing a tractor to speeds over say 20 mph).

[mike_van]

I'd re-think the fryer grease unless I was somewhere it never got cold.

[WMcGinn]

Fryer grease?   I can see coons and dogs attracted to my French fry scented tractor. ).

I'm sure there is some environmental impact if you dumped 30-40 gallons of WWfluid on the ground...   But as for leaks, essentially every car on the road is squirting this stuff little bits everywhere and I'm sure the epa wouldn't allow it if it was overly toxic.       
Wm

[shinnlinger]

Here is my thoughts on the grease.  I run bio diesel and have lots of used grease laying around.  The raw stuff is still pretty liquid at even 0 degrees and I bet if I left it in the sun, strained it and added som anti gel it would be just fine.  The coons and bears have never gone after the white grease totes beside the barn so I dont think they will attack a tractor tire.  I think it is a calculated risk and the garden tractor doesn't see much action in the winter either

And to be clear, Windshield washer fluid is a fine alternative, I was trying to steer anyone away from automotove anti freeze. 

ANother alternative might be the rv anti freeze they use in baseboard heating systems that have any chance of contmainating drinking water, but I dont think that would be any cheaper than wwfluid.  But now that I think of it, I have a 30 gallon barrel in my basement left from a flush some years ago.  Perhaps plumbers could furnish you with used product for cheap.

[stonebroke]

Calcium chloride is pretty toxic too.

Stonebroke

[mike_van]

Calcium chloride is pretty toxic too.

Stonebroke

How is saltwater toxic? 

[stonebroke]

Salt by itself is toxic. You can use it to kill weeds. Calcium Chloride is not sodium chloride anyway.

Stonebroke

[shinnlinger]

 a few years ago I was clearing some trees when I ripped a valve stem off.  NOt wanting to change a tractor tire in the woods I B-lined it for the barn, cutting across a field and the lawn.  I made it in time, but you could see my dead path all summer where the chloride hit the ground.

Still, I would take that  over automotive anti-freeze.  If an animal drinks it it can kill.  I might be off my fryer greese kick now and focused on used RV antifreeze.  If the price is right I am on it.

[Chico]

sorry wrong post
Chico

[John Mc]

Your JD 4310 is similar weight and HP to my NH TC33D (and probably about the same vintage as well: mine is a 2001). For my use, the choice between tractor and ATV is a tractor, no question. I do know a specialty logger who uses an ATV with a Logrite log arch to get in to areas he can't reach with the tractor (he used to be a horse logger). So it can be done, but you are more limited in the size and amount you can take in one trip.

You definitely want to fill the tires. It helps with traction and stability. Mine was filled with Calcium Chloride when new. It was the only thing available in my area at the time. Rim Guard was just coming out, but no one here had it. If I ever have to replace my tires, or if it springs a leak, Rim Guard is what is going in it next time.

I won't use antifreeze - the stuff is toxic, and unfortunately like candy to dogs and other pets. Even RV antifreeze has problems: it's not "non-toxic", it's just a good bit less toxic than regular antifreeze. (Food grade antifreeze is what is used in in heat exchangers and other systems where a leak might put it in contact with drinking water. That is NOT the same as RV antifreeze.)  As for methanol: many tire shops will not work on tires which they know to have methanol in them, even if diluted with water (and if they due, it's a safe bet their insurance companies would have a cow if they knew about it). See this warning about methanol from Firestone (note, the warning is from about 10 years before Rim Guard came out, so they indicate that Calcium Chloride is preferred, and that glycol based antifreeze is "approved".)

When filling, you want to fill enough to cover the top of the rim when the tire is standing up. You don't want absolutely full, because that is like driving on a rock-solid tire. The lack of flex is hard on you, hard on the tractor, and hard on the tires. You should not fill only half full or less than half. The "slosh factor" when you stop suddenly can cause problems with the tractor lurching.  Keeping the tire filled just above the rim minimizs those problems. It also helps protect the rim from rust (no oxygen in contact with the rim = no rust).

Do set your tires on the widest setting you can live with. Some folks add spacers, if there is little or no adjustment possible otherwise.

[John Mc]

Other tractor related equipment:

In addition to the 3 Pt logging winch, I eventually added a belly pan to protect the underside of the tractor. Adding one was not too expensive for me, since it mounted easily to the backhoe subframe I already had on the tractor. I had a local fab shop do the work, after I had seem some work he did on a larger tractor for a full-time logger. I tore the hydraulic filter for the HST off my tractor when it was 3 days old when a flat rock flipped up in just the wrong way and snapped off the filter and the mounting flange. I figured that was a fluke, happening out in the open field. In the woods, I mostly stayed on prepared trails and used the winch to pull trees out of the woods. However, as the years went on, I found myself in more and more off-trail situations, so finally decided to add the belly pan.

What actually finally prompted me to take the tractor to the fab shop was a branch falling off a tree, bouncing off the ROPS, and grazing my shoulder on its way to the ground. I was not even logging, just out checking the trails. I figured the forest was giving me a warning, so I added some falling object protection above the operator station, and limb risers from the front of the tractor up to that. Since it was in the fab shop anyway, I added the belly pan. (He normally does a completely enclosed operator station and engine guards when he sets up a tractor for forestry use. I decided that for the time being, that was overkill for my needs.)

A few years after that, my wife gave me a quick-attach system for the FEL. (I had cheaped out and went with a pin-on bucket when I bought the tractor.) The first thing I bought was a forestry grapple (Sundown GR40 - similar to a Frostbite and a couple other brands). These are much lighter weight than other grapple designs: the grapple weighs about the same as the bucket it replaces. They are designed specifically for moving logs, and they do very well at that. In addition, the narrow profile when not carrying a log makes it easier to maneuver in the woods

  

A few years later a branch poked through my grill while using the grapple to move some brush. It stopped just short of punching in to my battery and radiator. I knew it was likely to happen at some point, and again I figured I got off with an easy warning. I went back to the fab shop, and he made me a grill guard. I can access whatever I need to under the hood with the guard in place, but it is also easily removable.

    

The tractor kind of has a "Mad Max" look going now.

You may find you want a solid "work in the woods" trailer if you haul a lot of logs. I prefer that to dragging them all the way back to the house. I used a home made one for years, but it ws wide enough that it was a problem at times maneuvering around tight corners. I finally found a used CAM Woodsman dump trailer that is a good match size-wise for my tractor - and at only a little over 4 feet wide - is narrow enough to snake around in the woods. Many were made with a connection to run off of tractor hydraulics. This one has the optional self-contained hydraulics with a pump operated off a deep cycle battery, so I can also use it behind my pickup truck.

  

And then if you really want to go overboard: I bought this forwarding trailer used from someone a few hours down the road from me. I had always wanted one, but could never justify the cost. This one had low hours and was in great shape. It had the hydraulic winch option and self-powered hydraulics. It's too small for someone into commercial logging, and too expensive for typical landowner use, but a perfect fit for my tractor or behind my Tacoma pickup. I still can't justify the cost, but got it anyway (a guy needs to have his toys...)

  

A lot of people underestimate what can be accomplished with a small tractor. I do occasionally wish I had bought the next frame size larger (at the time, that would have been a TC40). However, there are also times I just could not get in to some areas with anything larger. It has worked out well for me, whether back in the days I was just using a couple of lengths of 20' chain to pull out logs, or today with all the extra gizmos and doo-dads.

[Old Greenhorn]

Thanks for that rundown John. Since you picked up that forwarding trailer I have thought many times about sending you a PM to see how it worked out for you, if it saved you time, and how often you used it. One of those is on my drool list, but I can't justify the cost either.  ;D 
 I still keep my eyes open for one hoping to find one in need of some repair. Is your rigged for over the road use? Looks like those are the wrong tires for that.

[John Mc]

Actually, the tires are street legal (Super Swampers). The original owner had them put on when he bought it. He had them add electric brakes, and the stock smooth implement tires did not have enough grip for the brakes to do any good in anything other than ideal conditions. (He had a Kubota tractor similar in size to mine, and was afraid a full load would push him around too much when going down hill. He rigged a cheap automotive brake controller and controlled the trailer brakes using the manual control feature. Since the controller was not weatherproof, he had disconnects to allow easy removal when not in use)

The trailer has no lights, so would not be legal over the road anyway, when pulled by a truck (pulling by a tractor, it's just looked at as another farm implement, so doesn't even raise an eyebrow around here).

Rumor has it that someone has been known to pull it around the back roads in my area behind their truck. 

[John Mc]

As far as how I use it and how much I use it:

For firewood it has changed my workflow. I used to winch logs/trees out from the woods and cut them up right by the side of the trail. Then I would either split them right in to my trailer, or load the rounds and bring them home to split there. I still do some of that, but now some of it gets brought home in 10-12' logs and cut to length there. I can't say that operation saves me much total time, but it is more convenient: I have a supply that I can chip away at as time permits (between rain storms or while waiting for an online business meeting to start.

It's definitely been handy for saw logs. Keepers them cleaner, and I can easily deliver them to my friend with a sawmill.

It's also been very handy when folks in the area have a donation to our WoodBank. I just swing by with the trailer behind my truck and grab it.

[Old Greenhorn]

Well it sounds like it filled a hole for you in several places. Adding lights is no big deal and the brakes are a big plus. Around here is is not unusual to see a skid steer, tractor, toolcat, and the occasional rubber tracked excavator go down the road either, but leaving our road is tough because there is just too much traffic with no shoulder that you would have to navigate to get anywhere else. Some of us resort to 'midnight runs' to get stuff moved. Which reminds me, my buddy down at the far end of the road has been moving 1 or 2 loads of steel roof trusses from where he bought them at the top of the road from another guy. Every Sunday afternoon/evening he goes by with a load of  50' trusses on a 40' trailer. The load of 60' was really 'interesting to watch' and he got it hung on the turn trying to get it back into his staging area. :D :D :D ;D ;D
 Good luck with that trailer, you got a winner there.