setting up a lt-15

[mad dog]

 I am going to set up my mill this week. I put down a gravel pad. I was thinking of running 2 6x6  lenth ways with the mill level with the top of gravel,then some 6x6 cross peices,also take the feet off the mill.
      Last year I had trouble when I put a big log on it would knock things out of level and square. :( any suggestions ?

[zopi]

I've got the same issues..little  buggers tough to keep level with big timber..I'd stay away from gravel..eventually it will come out from uner the mill...then it's getting stuck in bark and making a mess of your blades..

Best thing i've come up with so far is to se the mill on some thick flitches sideways ..then level the mill..it's not so hard to rake the sawdust out.

I'm planning to cast a set of concrete blocks with recesses in the tops of them for the mills
feet..and a couple of ground anchors to strap the frame down...won't have to take the mill's
feet off that way..

[jfl]

Hi,

When I bought my LumberLite 24, the sale guy told me that he once did build a mil on large beam (maybe 6x6, maybe 8x8?)  Then, when the beams dryed, it twisted and the mill was not usable, so it might not be the best idea.  What is suggested by the instalation manual is to put 2 x6 flat and then put 2 1x4 vertically on each side. Using dry wood, that assembly will be more stable than a single beam.

What I did is to take a old truck bottom with 2 C metal beam structure. On the truck. On that, I built a beam with 3 1x7 rough hardwood.  That is also not the best idea.  Even if it is very strong vertically (my beam on top of the metal structure), it has a tendency to shake laterally when I mill anything large (10 inch hardwood, 14 inch softwood maybe?)

So when I will re-install my mill in it's final place, there is going to be a roof over it and I'll build it on top of a concrete pad with a single  flat 2x6 and I'll screw the metal rail on it (so I can make fine height adjustment with wood).  Or I'll buy 2 strait used metal H-beam and put a single flat 2x6 and then screw the metal rail on it.

Wood is a very nice material, it has many advantages, but hydrostatic-stability isn't one of them.

jf

[sgschwend]

A mill needs to be rigid, you entry cost was lower because your mill is not that heavy, so you feel good about making a nice foundation for it, just part of the total cost.

Well, if you are handy with metal then look for some metal to use.  I picked up a 60' long manufacture home frame for free, I just had to cut it up and move it.  I cut the frame into 20' lengths; has cross member too that can be used.

If you like working in concrete then frame up a foundation.  It cost $100 a yard to have it delivered here, you could mix your own, don't purchase ready mix.

Concrete and steel are stable (relative to wood) materials.  In all cases I would expect that you would still need to shim to level.

Let us know how it goes.

[Larry]

I used 5 old railroad ties crosswise bedded in sand.  Loosely lag bolted the mill frame to the ties and got everything level with wood wedges under the frame.  The ties added enough weight to keep things aligned...unless I rolled a big log really hard against the log stops.

My new setup is core filled blocks setting on a concrete footing, and all tied together with #4 bars.  Yet to put the mill on its new bed. ???