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Anyone running the new Wood-Mizer 7 degree bands?

Started by Dave Shepard, April 23, 2009, 05:58:52 PM

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ladylake

 In theory the 9 or 10 degree blades should push easier, I'm thinking the 7's stay sharp longer.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

True North

We just got the 7's in .045.

We sawed some hard maple, and they have worked better than any blades we have used yet. I think it may become our blade of choice too.

Bibbyman

Makes a body wonder...  What took them so long?

I wonder too if the 9° blade would work better with a deeper gullet.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Fla._Deadheader


On wide cuts, we used a couple WM blades along with the Munks.

  I sharpened them with the same rounded gullet as the Munks, and they cut fine. I believe a deeper gullet than WM is necessary to drag most of the sawdust out of the cut.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Bibbyman

We sent our 7° degree blades off to Re-Sharp and got them back.  Once we ran through the box of 9° blades we switched back to the 7°s.  They saw a lot better – natch.. 

But the other day we were sawing red oak.  It was a good mix of fresh, dry, big, dirty and some big knotty.  We ran one 7° degree blade thought them all.  I expect we had sawn a 1,000 board feet with that blade and it was still doing fine. 

I had an order for a fireplace mantel out of walnut.  I had a very dry walnut log to make it from.  I suspect it had been standing dead until the sap had fluffed off.  It had been on our lot for at least a year.  I thought about changing the blade but figured I should at least try slabbing it down with the blade on the mill.  (Nothing makes me madder than hitting metal first thing after putting on a sharp blade.)  I was surprised that the blade continued to cut very well.  I finished sawing out the 6x12 mantel.

The next day we had about 40 cedar logs to square down to 6x6s and make whatever lumber off the sides.  I continued to use the 7° blade.  It did just fine.  Cut true and fast as I wanted to push it.  I kept son Gabe on the run offbearing and edging. We sawed the 40 6x6s and made about 200 bf of side lumber.

After that we worked on an order for oak 1x6s by 12'.  I picked out some white oak top logs about 12" in diameter that had been in the pile for a good long time. They were hard and dry with lots of small knots and a few large ones.  I sawed the first one using the same blade just to push it to some point of cutting bad or something.  It was starting to slow and I had to kind of push it but it still sawed straight and true.

I figured that was enough and replaced the blade.

Sometimes you just get a blade that just keeps on cutting.  ::)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Toolman

Quote from: ladylake on April 24, 2009, 06:52:30 AM
  Dave  Maybe you should jump right to 4* for your tough wood, I've been running 4* for quite a while now sawing white oak, ash and dry pine with real good results with a 1-1/4  7/8   .42 blade. I got the bright idea to sharpen a few at 7* a little while ago, it's back at 4* again.  Also plenty of set and clean blades.   Steve

Ladylake,

How much set do you use?
"A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have" (Thomas Jefferson)

ladylake

 I use the eyeball method, just a little more than what my new blades have and set every 2nd or 3rd sharpening. On dry pine I use a lot of set, seems like the only way to cut straight in that wood with a lot of stringy fibers.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Mo

Thank all of you for your responces. The history of the 7 degree blade is lenghty so I'll not go in to it here.
The key thing about the 7 is that we made the tooth taller and we lessened the back angle to make a crisper tip to the tooth which in turn deepend the gullet to carry away the saw dust.
If you ever have any blade questions feel free to give me a call.
Gary Moore
Wood-mizer Blade Sales
1-800-522-5760 ext. 1610
Again thank you all for the feed back.    Bibby, be easy on Mary.  ;D

ladylake

I don't believe it has much to do with the gullet, just the hook angle. When I sharpen my new 10* blades to 4* the gullet stay just about the same, it's maybe 3 or 4 thousands deeper at best and those 4* blades sure saw a lot straighter in tough wood. Thers's no way sawing white oak that the gullet is getting to full, maybe in soft pine sawing really fast but there the old 10* blade works just fine even with the shallower gullet.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Toolman

Just called WM inquiring about these blades. They are sending me 1 4 deg and 1 7 deg. at half price to try out. I wanna try each one out before committing to a whole box. They were very helpful. I of course left them know I received info through the Forum and thanked them for their sponsorship.

I have some dry Black Oak that I'm gonna be tackling in a few weeks. I was considering going with the Lennox Bi-metal 10 deg. , but the expense of those blades makes me cringe.
Lennox does'nt make a blade with less than a 10 deg. hook. According to Lennox dealer I talked to, he said grinding the 10's to a 7 would take away too much of the temper in the tooth. He actually recommended me to WM. They supposedly are the only ones who manufacter a 4 and 7 blade.
"A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have" (Thomas Jefferson)

customdave

Hi everyone, would you say the gullet is cosiderably deeper on the 7 deg blade compared to the 10 deg, I haven't seen a new 7 deg blade yet , but reading this I'm thinking I should be ordering a box or 2...4, sounds like they are going to become quite popular.


                                            Dave
Love the smell of sawdust

Dave Shepard

I've got a box of .045 9s that I'm going to send back for 7s. My only question is should I get .045s or .055s?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Bibbyman

Quote from: Dave Shepard on September 20, 2009, 08:23:39 AM
I've got a box of .045 9s that I'm going to send back for 7s. My only question is should I get .045s or .055s?

Get a box of each.  ;D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

tyb525

The thinner the band, the less hp needed to spin it and the longer the blade life.

I've also read that the thicker bands can cut straighter in difficult wood.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

jpgreen

Anyone try these on the west coast? Most of what I mill is doug fir and pines, white, ponderosa, sugar.

I've be sharpening my blades at 13drgs, and that has been about optimum so far. 7 drgrers may not work so well for our trees.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

gmmills

     I've been using the 7 deg blades all summer. They work get in all varying densities of hardwoods that I saw. Did a little comparison between  10 deg and the 7 deg in green red oak. I feel that the 7 deg blade can be fed as fast as a 10 deg and also remove more sawdust in wider cuts. The deeper gullet does help. I also feel that the 7 deg blade will last longer in the cut between sharpenings than a 10 deg.

      Been sawing white oak for the last 2 weeks. The logs ranged from green to extremely seasoned,dry. The 7 deg blade did a real good job in the green to slightly seasoned logs. Had to switch to 4 deg to saw the really dry logs. These logs had been in the yard since last Feb. The sap wood was on the verg of being rotten. I'd say the toughest logs I've sawn all year.

       The 7 deg gullets are deeper than the 10 deg blades. The 7 deg blade's gullet is near 19/64" deep compared to the 10 deg depth of 1/4".  Easy to see if compared side by side. 

       
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

customdave

Thats very interesting gmmills, Thanks











                                           Dave
Love the smell of sawdust

Larry

First time yesterday sawing cedar all day with the 7°.  14 small dirty logs and 500 board foot.  For my mill, that is probably a record run time for cedar. 

I did feel like it left way to much sawdust on the board.  Last night I re-sharpened the blade but did not set.  I'm sure that took some of the set out.  Got similar run time performance today, without the excess sawdust.  It also fed a tick faster.

Even though I'm a little critical I feel this band is the best made...by far.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

MartyParsons

If you are getting to much sawdust on the cant, you need to increase cutting speed. If hp will not let you do that you need to go to a different hook angle.
I have not had much luck in our area with less than 30+ hp. Any one else use them on lower hp?  I have one customer with a 18 hp and says they work Great. ?
Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Bodger

Allow me to hit this subject one more time...If I order the 7's will I have to order a new cam to sharpen?
Work's fine for killing time but it's a shaky way to make a living.

Brucer

Quote from: Bodger on November 19, 2009, 07:42:46 AM
Allow me to hit this subject one more time...If I order the 7's will I have to order a new cam to sharpen?
My sharpening guy says "no".
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

gmmills

     No need to buy a new cam if you have a WM 10/30 cam. Just change the sharpener head angle to 7 deg and use the 10/30 cam. Should follow the profile properly. At this time, WM doesn't offer a 7 deg cam. They do offer a 7 deg angle template for sharpener head adjustment and recommend using the 10/30 cam.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Bodger

Great, they sent me a couple of 7's and they cut well...most of what I cut (80 - 90%) is SYP.   It's about time to order I think I'll go with the 7's.  I'm not bright enough to try and use two different profiles, my life is complicated enough.  Thanks for the answer.
Work's fine for killing time but it's a shaky way to make a living.

Larry

Few more observations...they work great on froze, half froze, and junk.



And I could also use an extra bucket of horsepower...maybe another 16 would work. ;D

Question for the WM guys...when does Re-Sharp say bands are to narrow to sharpen anymore?  I have a bunch around 1 1/8" with some less.  I re-sharpen myself but they don't seem to run long when they get narrow.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Bibbyman

Yes,  they will reject them for resharp if they are too narrow.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

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