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Nyle over temp, suggestions

Started by brdmkr, April 15, 2009, 10:09:37 PM

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brdmkr

I have my first charge in the kiln 8) 8) 8)
I am drying about 1200 bdft of SYP fresh off of the mill.  I set the temp at 120 with the compressor running full time as suggested.  Trouble is, kiln temp hit 130+ today.  I opened the vents and checked a couple hours later and it was still 125+.  SO, I opened the door and did an inspection (hot and humid in there big time).  Closed the door after about 15 minutes and it still was at 122 or so.  I know the unit has release valves to protect against damaging the compressor, but I would think if those valves are working I am not pulling water.  What do you do when you can't get the temp down?  The heat is coming completely from the compressor, the heater is not running.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

oakiemac

I have to leave the doors cracked open in the warmer months or I will over heat. Nyle sells a power vent that auto opens. I have been wanting to get one so I dont have this problem.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

brdmkr

I don't have the power vents either, buit I do have the manual vents open and I can't seem to get the temp below125 without opening doors.  I suppose I could cut back on the compressor, but that would seem to defeat the purpose. 
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

ellmoe

   I don't think that you'll have a problem starting at that temp. for pine. If I'm not in a hurry I'll normally run with no heat and full ventilation for a couple of days with pine. Then I usually quickly run up to 135 to kill the mold that might start at a lower temp. and high humidity.

Mark
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

karl

We have had to crack the door occasionally, When the outside temp is high(not often enough'round here!) I start up the compressor at 70 and set the heat at 90-100, that way I get 20 or so  degrees of room for the kiln to "overheat". Not to concerned with over heating for pine, hdwds I pay close attention to.
Power vents would be the way to go, and when we build our new kiln, probably will.
"I ask for wisdom and strength, Not to be superior to my brothers, but to be able to fight my greatest enemy, myself"  - from Ojibwa Prayer.

scsmith42

I have to crack the vents occasionally too, but most of the time I'll set the temp 10 degrees or so lower than I want it, and the natural heat rise will then take it to the targeted level.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

brdmkr

Quote from: scsmith42 on April 17, 2009, 03:41:56 PM
I have to crack the vents occasionally too, but most of the time I'll set the temp 10 degrees or so lower than I want it, and the natural heat rise will then take it to the targeted level.

I have the temp set lower now, but it still hits 130+ during the day.  As soon as I get off work, I crack the doors about 6 - 8 inches.  Today, they were open for about 6 hours before I checked again.  The temp had gone from 131 - 132 to 115.  I shut the doors and within about 30 minutes it was at 118.  It doesn't take long for the temp to ramp right back up.  The heater never came on.  I am still pulling a good bit of water, but it seems drier in the chamber. 
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

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