started on a mill shed

littlechub · April 12, 2009, 11:32:45 AM

well i decided to get started building a mill shed last weekend. one of my buddys came up and we got all the post sat last saturday. had a few slow days at my regular job last week so i got the top stringers on and some of the sidewall girts for the siding. went and picked up trusses wednsday and we got the trusses on and some of the roof purlins yesterday. ive got to saw out about 30 more 2x4s and i should be ready for the metal roof by next weekend. its not near as big as id like to have but its what we could afford for now and i plan to add a 12 ft sideshed down each side as money allows it.

StorminN · April 12, 2009, 11:45:39 AM

Lookin' good, littlechub... good progress. How big is that building as it sits right now? I need to build one soon.

-N.

littlechub · April 12, 2009, 12:00:12 PM

as it sits now the mainframe is 24x32. with buying the better metal for the roof with a good warranty ill have about 1200-1300 dollars in it when i get the roof on. im gonna saw out pine to put on for board and batten siding so there wont be much cost there either.

sawmilllawyer · April 12, 2009, 10:55:24 PM

Great shed, where did you get your trusses or did you make them? Welcome to the forum.

WH_Conley · April 12, 2009, 11:01:15 PM

Aint big enough. ;D

bandmiller2 · April 13, 2009, 06:08:38 AM

Mill sheds always expand,very good start. The real spoiler is a roof over your log loading area to keep everything dry and clean in the winter,and enough logs ahead in mud season.Frank C.

littlechub · April 13, 2009, 08:07:23 AM

i decided to buy the trusses instead of trying to build them. ordered them from a local truss company in cotter, arkansas.
and W.H i could have went triple this size and it not been big enough! ;D

Meadows Miller · April 13, 2009, 11:13:39 AM

Gday

Little chub Welcome to the forum Mate ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) pull up a pack any time ;) ;D 8)

Well your 24x32' ahead of me at the moment mate ;) :D :D ;D 8) but you have to start somewhere dont you ;) :D I should catch you in the next 6 to 8 weeks as ill be starting a 24x60 6 post clear span heavy pole frame ;) to put the lucas in for a start this winter then it will get booted out into another 30x20 when the Meadows goes in at a later date it will get extended to 24 x 90 odd feet ;) :D :D 8)

are you putting a concrete floor in it and what sorta mill have you got mate ??? ;) ;D

Anyway A Blokes Gotta have a shed Mate its a god given right overhere/anywhere ;) :D :D ;D ;D 8) 8) or I must just like having rainy days off ;) :D :D :D :D ;)

Keep up the good work Mate ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) 8)

Reguards Chris

littlechub · April 13, 2009, 03:09:24 PM

no concrete till the budget allows it but i do plan for concrete eventually. for now im gonna used crushed limestone and rent a plate compactor to get it settled goood and tight. and for my mill ive just got a little norwood bandmill i bought used a month or so ago.

Woodchuck53 · April 13, 2009, 11:12:07 PM

Welcome aboard. You'll find no end to the talent and or comments from this group. Great looking shed and yep you can always expand. Board and batten is my favorite siding also and will look good on there. Keep the pics. coming I am always looking for (How he done it) ideas. Have a safe one CV

ScottAR · April 14, 2009, 12:24:53 AM

Howdy Neighbor... Welcome to the forum!

Good looking shed!

Meadows Miller · April 14, 2009, 07:40:28 AM

Gday

Lc im using stabalised rock with 8% concrete ust in it 8"+ thick over the whole floor of my mill shed ;) and its only about $60 au a ton in 28 ton loads ;D 8) 8) 8)

with the applacation spread it out ,level ,wet ,vib roll it and wet again tooo easy weve done a couple off mates sheds in the last couple off months one 40x60 and another 30x 100 odd feet they both only took one day ea to do and came up well ;D 8) 8) with one shed we mixed up a slurry and spread it out over the top with a broom to give it a smoother finnish ;)

Reguards Chris

ljmathias · April 19, 2009, 04:41:01 PM

Interesting change of direction for me with my new mill shed- built a pretty good size barn (36X60 enclosed with two 12X60 sheds under the trusses on the long sides) that I had thought would solve a lot of my needs- planned on putting the sawmill under the north side shed- would only use up about half and would be sheltered from rain and prevailing wind. Situated the mill there and didn't like it at all- too close to the wall for easy access in and out (logs in from the open side, sawdust out next to the wall with me walking up and down in the sawdust pile. Decided to go with a dedicated mill shed- 14X30 with both long sides open most of the way. Got the slab poured, pulled the wheels off and set it up with permanent legs- wow, does it work slick now. Logs come in one side, flitches back off onto the front end loader bucket, sawdust and boards out the other. Plenty of elbow space, no walls to get too close to and a good breeze blowing from my right side back: perfect! After the tune up on the sawmill, it cuts so smooth and straight I hate to change the blade for fear of loosing it... Cut up a couple SYPs and a small cherry (10-14" and 30' long, but not all that straight). Makes it so easy to clean up- just pull the FIL to the sawdust side, lower the bucket to ground level and push everything in to haul to the burn pile: slick as snot on a lever handle... at least I like it. Still got the barn for storing, outside sheds for air drying as needed, and plenty of room to work inside. It feels like I've done died and gone to heaven!

Lj

littlechub · April 21, 2009, 08:34:56 AM

should have a few more pictures to post this evening, were finishing the roof metal today. the wind we are having here sure makes it fun.

Meadows Miller · April 21, 2009, 08:41:52 AM

Gday

Your Not Mucking Around Mate ;) :D ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) 8) Ill have to check them out in the morning ;) ;D 8) 8) 8) Dont go fo any unplaned Flights On Us tho Mate ;) :D :D :D ;D ;)

Reguards Chris

caver · June 02, 2009, 03:14:42 PM

Sorry for the slight hijack,
Anyone built a roof over a mill and have one side open to set logs on the mill?
Something to keep the worst of the sun and rain off of it.
My new (to me) mill takes up too much room in a barn I'm trying to finish.
I'm looking for pictures.

John_Haylow · June 03, 2009, 05:53:53 AM

Welcome to the forum Caver. I have some pictures of the one we built last year. I used a cantilever truss with a 10' overhang on one side. There are some pictures in my gallery or you can search the forum for mill sheds.

If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me.
John

ljmathias · June 03, 2009, 06:25:42 AM

I am just finishing up a 14X30 shed on slab dedicated solely to the mill. Built with two SYP logs as beams on the front and back to hold up the rafters and purlins for metal roof.... but then, my snow load is roughly zero. Works great for cutting- load logs on one side, take off slabs and lumber on the other.

Haven't got pictures of the shed with the roof on yet- bout to put some siding on and that will more or less finish it up on the outside; still planing on hooks, shelves and storage on the inside. I'll get more pictures shortly.

Good luck.

Lj

fishpharmer · June 03, 2009, 08:22:19 PM

Looks better in real life ;)

Although the pics are great. I have been studying your mill shed and was wondering if you or some of the other timberframer folks could tell me if you anticipate some "sag" for lack of a more technical term.

I mean "sag" in the big cross beams, does that occur over time in an appreciable manner?

Is there a certain length to diameter ratio that must be honored to prevent sag?

One more question, does a dry beam work better than a "green" beam, if it makes a difference at all?

LJM I have nearly all the materials needed to build a shed similar to yours. I am so tired of not being able to work on the mill during rain, extreme summer heat and darkness. The only thing I lack are some trusses or cross beams like yours. Thanks

Fish

zopi · June 03, 2009, 09:06:04 PM

Ok..I have shed envy now...LJ yours is pretty close to what mine is shaping up to be..'cept mine is ugly...and not plumb level or square..but it IS rustic...the neighbors like it..

The roof is unique..buddy of mine gave me a country buttload of concrete decking...to use for roofing on this project...roof is going nowhere.

I ran out of decking..trying to beg more now.

I will put the mill under it later this week and try to get pics...boy I owe alot of pics. I might even get a pic of the goat. I mean organic perambulatory weed removal device.

DanG · June 03, 2009, 09:44:27 PM

Fish, the answer to all of your questions is...yes.

Wood stiffens as it dries, and also becomes lighter, making it hold its own weight better, and allowing more of its strength to support the structure above.

There are tables available to tell you what certain sized beams can support, but I'm not sure where to find them. You could look in the Timberframe and Log Construction board, or just wait for someone less ignorant than I to point you to it. ;D :D

caver · June 03, 2009, 10:28:58 PM

Thanks for the shed pictures, that's the stuff I was looking for. 8)

fishpharmer · June 03, 2009, 10:34:51 PM

Thanks DanG

pineywoods · June 03, 2009, 10:37:17 PM

Quote from: DanG on June 03, 2009, 09:44:27 PM
Fish, the answer to all of your questions is...yes.

There are tables available to tell you what certain sized beams can support, but I'm not sure where to find them. You could look in the Timberframe and Log Construction board, or just wait for someone less ignorant than I to point you to it. ;D :D

They are right her on the forestry forum. Click on the red toolbox. Look for don p's formulas. I used them to size some beams for a bridge. Must have worked OK. Dozer crosses the bridge regularly, and it ain't fell in the creek yet :

DanG · June 03, 2009, 10:43:56 PM

See there? I toldya that someone lacking in ignorance would come along! 8) 8)

fishpharmer · June 03, 2009, 10:56:45 PM

DanG, as Wikipedia so eloquently states "Ignorance is the state in which a person lacks knowledge, is unaware of something or chooses to subjectively ignore information. This should not be confused with being unintelligent" I find you categorized (if that is possible ;D) by the last half (red) of the sentence.

Piney, thanks to you too. DanG I love this place 8)

Here is a link directly to what you led me too, for the benefit of other inquiring minds.

https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/logbeamcalc.htm

bandmiller2 · June 04, 2009, 05:44:22 AM

As a lifelong shed builder its just a fact that a long unsupported carrying beam is going to sag some.Corner braces like LJ used greatly reduce that tendency.I like to use oak for support beams they may bend but won't break.Put the oak crown up for its self imposed preload.Frank C.

zopi · June 04, 2009, 09:01:40 AM

Might help a bit to cantilever part of the weight out board of the posts..a little weight ouside will go a long way to prevent the sag...

Hilltop366 · June 04, 2009, 09:47:29 AM

I wonder if it would be practical to make a heavy duty truss like a floor truss design with a top and bottom beam and a W pattern of cross pieces , and then close it in with 3/4" plywood glued and screwed to it, Still taking care to put crown up.

I would think this would be stiff ?

Some times wondering will get a person in trouble though!

beenthere · June 04, 2009, 10:09:18 AM

zopi and Hilltop366 are on the right track, if sagging becomes a problem (and likely will over time). Just keep an eye out for the fastened joints at the ends (top of the posts) separating due to some sagging. Can't tell for sure how the ends at the post tops are fastened.

Just a pole supported on the ends with no additional weight at all, will sag.

Two smaller poles, one top of the other, with through bolts along the length will add a lot of stiffness to such a span. Three poles even more.

ljmathias · June 05, 2009, 06:07:05 AM

Hey, fishpharmer- good to hear from you again. As for the beams sagging, here's my situation: they are SYP, either longleaf or loblolly, don't know which now as they were from Katrina blowdown that I peeled and stored in my pole barn till a few months ago. Over three years drying means a whole lot less sag than with a green log which from personal experience I've seen will sag under its own way some and really shouldn't be used as a beam without support. Also, I tend to overbuild but often by the seat of my pants (where did that expression come from anyway?) so my log beams are 10" at their thinnest. Used the beam calculator and came out with 8" as minimum for 30' span, assuming I did it right, so I just be fine. Worse case: I get a little sag, that pulls my posts in a little, my sawmill still doesn't get wet and I still get a nice breeze and ready access to both sides of the mill, so I can live with it.

Someday, when I get some spare time, I'll tear the whole thing down, make it over again with nicely kiln dried and engineered posts and beams all joined with beautiful mortise and tenon work.... right! Life is too short these days for me to worry about it now, got other fish to fry (ouch!).

Lj

woodmills1 · June 05, 2009, 06:40:51 AM

"seat of the pants"

I was pretty sure it is a flying term for landing with no help and looked and found this link.

http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/139400.html

fishpharmer · June 06, 2009, 02:51:20 AM

Littlechub and LJMathias, you both have great looking sheds. 8) I wasn't trying to be critical at all. The reason I said LJM's shed looked better in real life is because I have seen it first hand and know that it looks great and is complete (whereas the photo is before completion).

I know little, if anything, about timber framing. I have shed envy (could that be shortened to shedvy? or chevy?). I hate to admit this but most everything I do is by the seat of my pants, and it has on occasion served me well.

I was actually trying to plan things out a bit and thought I would ask about sag. LJ, you have taught me not to use green logs (unlike my original plan ;D). And frying fish sounds great, let get together and do so sometime ;D

Fish