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Stihl 029 problem

Started by jmaine, March 31, 2009, 08:02:10 AM

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jmaine

Hi guys, I'm having problems with my Stihl saw and thought that someone here might have some ideas on things I could check.  I've had a Stihl 029 super for about 6 years. Since I got the saw, I always felt like there was something about it that wasn't quite right. It never seemed to have the power that I expected given the size of the saw (I have a smaller saw that puts this saw to shame). Over time, the problem has seemed to have gotten worse. The saw bogs down and is impossible to start after I've shut it down but it starts right up when it's cold.   I brought it in a couple of times to be repaired, they charged $60-$75 but the problem was never corrected. 

I'm starting to think it's the coil?  Maybe the coil was defective initially and has just gotten worse over time? Yesterday I ran the saw for a few minutes and shut it down, I pulled the plug (leaving the wire attached) and there wasn't any spark at all when I pulled the starter cord. 

I could get a coil at Bailey's but I'm afraid of spending $75 and not having the problem fixed. Maybe I'd be better off putting the $75 towards a new saw?  This saw has not been used very frequently, I'm been relying on my smaller saw.  I'm a little sour on Stihl after this experience. 

Any suggestions?

Joe


Al_Smith

If you look on e-bay you can land a brand spankin new one for about half that price .

Kevin

Check the switch and replace the plug before you spend the money.

jmaine

Thanks for the advice guys. I have changed the plug (multiple times) and checked the switch.  I think I'll take Al's advice and get a coil on Ebay.  I'll let you know how everything turns out.

Joe

joe_indi

If its an ignition module problem or a problem of too much fuel (from a leaky metering needle or wrongly set H screw), the spark plug should be black and wet (oily).

By an ignition module problem I also include a partial short circuit in the stop switch wire (black).

Most probably the fault is in the fuel line.A partially blocked pickup body or strainer in the carb would give the saw the symptoms that you mentioned.

If by some chance you had ever replaced the air filter, remove it and check the part that goes into the air compensator.
Some replacement air filters come with this part sealed for use on carbs without the air compensator. If you have one of these, you might get the same symptoms .
Happened to me once and it took me a couple of days to figure it out. ::)

Post Script  after some more thought on the problem.

The flywheel on the 029 has a molded key in the flywheel for the part that goes onto the crankshaft.
If, during the passing of the years, somebody was careless enough the key might have broken off.This could cause the ignition timing to become a bit retarded, which could cause the saw to have a 'soggy' running behavior.
Before ordering that new module, remove the flywheel and check if the key is intact.

Thehardway

I'm having similar problems with my 029.  Mine is a little over 12 years old.  Starts on about the 10th pull when cold and runs like a top til its out of gas.  After I refill the tank it bogs down and quits running, & it doesn't seem to have as much power.  If I leave it sit for a couple hours  and restart, the problem goes away.  I have replaced the in tank fuel strainer but will check the other items mentioned and post back with results.
Norwood LM2000 24HP w/28' bed, Hudson Oscar 18" 32' bed, Woodmaster 718 planer,  Kubota L185D, Stihl 029, Husqvarna 550XP

joe_indi

Quote from: Thehardway on April 05, 2009, 09:25:36 PM
I'm having similar problems with my 029.  Mine is a little over 12 years old. 
With that old a saw, I would also check the oil seals and the 4 screws that hold the engine block in the engine housing

Hilltop366

Is your plug is turning light gray or white instead black? If so check for air leaks in the fule line and carb. Check for hair line cracks both in and out side the tank on the fule line (bend and streach it to make it eaiser to see) check for loose carb mount bolts and bad carb mount gaskets.

The spark should be a fine blue snap it is hard to see in the sunshine on a bright day when checking on a plug, bend the wire on a plug  out straight or cut it right off to make the spark jump farther if it can jump that far with a blue snap in the open air it should be good enough to jump the proper gap under compression.  A flashie orange spark is not as good.

Causes for weak spark can be excess coil gap, chafed plug wire or kill switch wire, bad kill switch, weak fly wheel magnets, bad plugwire end. or shorted coil/ or electronics.

Check compression ( alwase check with throttle in the full open position and choke off)

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