LT-15 track question for the 'mizer gurus

MotorSeven · March 17, 2009, 11:36:45 PM

I am shifting gears from my CSM Woodbug w/30' of track & a 066 magnum to a band. I haven't decided on which band yet, but there is a LT15 for sale about 2 miles away.
It has a 15 horse & very low hours(guessing around 30). No trailer pkg & I don't know the year model, but it has been stored in a garage it's whole life. It does not have any extensions & I need to cut out to 23-4 feet. Mizer wants four hundred & change for 6'8" extension so I would need two of them.
I have a millermatic 210 Mig, so I can fab the steel. My question is are the tracks made of standard sized steel stock, or am I going to have a hard time trying to match them if I make my own? If I can make them myself, I would just go ahead & do a 20' extension.

Last year the owner wanted over 5K for it. I can now get it for 4K......fair deal?

The reason I am switching to band is I decided to go from a log to a modified timber frame house. I will be cutting almost all of the lumber for the house myself. The CSM was fine for 3siding the logs, but not for a ton of dimensional lumber....too slow.

RD

bandmiller2 · March 18, 2009, 06:00:59 AM

RD,as far as i know standard steel just copy whats there and make it however long you desire.Frank C.

Don K · March 18, 2009, 06:32:50 AM

That price would be a bargain against a new comparable one. I know I bought one 4 yrs ago.

Don

zopi · March 18, 2009, 06:48:17 AM

4k used for is a good deal for a mill in good shape, and you don't have to
go far to get it.

you could build the track no problem...make sure the left rail is as precise as the originals..those alignment pins are very close tolerance.

thecfarm · March 18, 2009, 07:07:01 AM

Yes,you can make your own,BUT the extensions have to be perfect,or they will always affect your sawing.Seems like I remember some of the members building their own sawmills and not being able to buy straight metal.Seems like some crown is allowed in a 16 foot piece,if I recall correctly.Just want to make you aware of anything that will trip you up on your plans.

WDH · March 18, 2009, 07:31:36 AM

You might be better served to just buy the sections from Woodmizer.

MotorSeven · March 18, 2009, 07:55:16 AM

Thanks for the replies. Thecfarm, I didn't think about new steel not being straight so I will look closely if/when the time comes.

I think the price is fair, but this track thing makes me hesitate. Most other mills in the LT15 class have 19-20' cut, and larger engine. I am also looking at a Lumbnermate 2000 and a TimberMule. The TimberMule is priced for $7500, 24 horse Honda, trailer pkg, 20' capacity, 32" log diam. The Norwood would be in the same price range.
Big difference though from $4K to $8K. If I bought Mizer tracks I would be at $5K but still with a 15 horse.

Zopi, you have been running that LT15 for a couple of years now, how do you like it & what if anything would you change? What size engine do you have?

RD

MotorSeven · March 18, 2009, 08:03:21 AM

Oh & here is the TimberMule link:

http://www.timbermule.com/default.asp

They are a little over 2 hrs away from me in KY.

RD

adrean louis · March 18, 2009, 10:29:46 AM

i'm on my 2nd lt15, my first one i made a section of track but i would rather buy the new ones

Haytrader · March 18, 2009, 03:41:12 PM

Some can and some can't. Build track extensions, that is.
Some do and some don't, have the tools and the ability.
If you have a Miller 210 (I do also) and know how to use it (I assume you do), I wouldn't hesitate to build somthing as simple as manual bandmill tracks.

If you thought your saw was slow, wait till you try to tackle a big log with a 15 HP.

;)

CLL · March 18, 2009, 04:13:25 PM

I know a guy with 15hp woodmizer and he does well, the key is SHARP blades.

thecfarm · March 18, 2009, 05:08:04 PM

One more thing to think about,I would make the track longer than what is needed.You mentioned one can cut a 20 foot log,BUT it has to be on the track just right or it won't do it.Now if it could cut a 24 foot log and you had a 20 footer on there it would be much easier to line up.You don't want to move a 20 foot log a few inches forward or backwards with no hyds.

MotorSeven · March 18, 2009, 08:48:17 PM

"If you thought your saw was slow, wait till you try to tackle a big log with a 15 HP."

Thanks Hay......add an engine upgrade to the "list"? argggg.....

I keep flip floping on this, but the '15 is within the budget now. I guess I can add as I go, or upgrade later if/when I can afford it. A track extension is a must & yes, thecfarn, if I do one it will most likely be at least 16', which gives me 27' overall. My rafters will be in the 22-24' range, so that will give me room to wiggle them around.

Another thing I really want is a log turner. I have searched & read several threads here & I think I will add winch/cable/hook arrangment for those big boys.

I'm gonna sleep on it a few days.......thanks for the suggestions!

RD

Don K · March 18, 2009, 09:33:09 PM

Motor seven, check out some of the pics in my gallery and you will see some of the big logs I have sawn on my 15. The biggest ones I don't have pics of. I have a 15hp, a 25 would cut a little faster, but hey a 15 horse is better than nothing. I have a hand winch with two pulleys mounted under my sawshed. I turned a 28 inch pecan log with ease. I saw on 3 bed sections. All WM stuff.

Don

zopi · March 19, 2009, 12:33:52 AM

Quote from: MotorSeven on March 18, 2009, 07:55:16 AM
Thanks for the replies. Thecfarm, I didn't think about new steel not being straight so I will look closely if/when the time comes.

I think the price is fair, but this track thing makes me hesitate. Most other mills in the LT15 class have 19-20' cut, and larger engine. I am also looking at a Lumbnermate 2000 and a TimberMule. The TimberMule is priced for $7500, 24 horse Honda, trailer pkg, 20' capacity, 32" log diam. The Norwood would be in the same price range.
Big difference though from $4K to $8K. If I bought Mizer tracks I would be at $5K but still with a 15 horse.

Zopi, you have been running that LT15 for a couple of years now, how do you like it & what if anything would you change? What size engine do you have?

RD

For the shipping and price you'll save being only a couple miles away will likely pay for your
extensions...or close to it.

if you did have a trailer kit, you have to take the extensions off to use it..

I would not change very much about my mill, it was what I caould afford and I am extremely happy with it. If I could change ANYTHING I turn the whole mill in to an LT-40H...but money being what it is..gonna be awhile.

The only problems I have had were a broken exhaust flange at the muffler on the 15hp Kohler
(I just welded the bloody thing back together..) and I had to take the carb apart and clean it one when I left fuel in the bowl too long...

I would like to repower it with something bigger...and may, when this engine begins giving me fits..if I
don't buy the bigger mill..

Things I did change...I changed the water feed to allow me to meter water flow with a needle valve and a ball valve on the operator side, so I don't have to walk around or step over the mill to turn the water on and off...poor man's lube mizer if you will. I also moved the lube nozzle to the other side of the log...I'm not injecting water directly into the log now and my blades are staying cleaner...BUT,
wet sawdust builds up more in the drive side housing..I am about to make a sacrificial shield to cut down on that...

Since I never really move this mill I am going to build a semi portable dead deck for log intake,
with any manual mill log handling is one of the biggest choke points...the other is edging...I want to be able to load up a half dozen logs and saw until I'm done, then get on the tractor and go get more...

I am exceedingly happy with my mill..it is a labor intensive little beast, but considering I was using a MK-III/MS-660 combo...I'm right tickled with it.

I am VERY pleased with Woodmizer in general...I have never dealt with a company that took as much
interest in the welfare and happiness of it's customers..especially after the sale.

MotorSeven · March 19, 2009, 09:17:23 AM

Thanks for the detailed answer Zopi, I think I am going to go with the LT15. Not that I can afford one, but how much time is saved by edging? Forgive my ignorance, does it just save time on turning the log? On the csm, I make a square cant the size of boards I want, then slice them to thickness. So with an edger you would just slab all the way thru the log, off load & load on the edger making whatever sized pass for the finished board? Doesn't the moving of the slabs cancel out the time in log turning?

RD

zopi · March 19, 2009, 11:58:24 PM

Well, It's not really that simple...there are several tactics to getting through a log...approximately as many as there are sawyers...depending on what I am sawing, I'll typically cut the log down to a cant
the size of the lumber I am sawing and saw through and through, but aside from the slabs there is usually at least three flitch boards that need to be edged..it's just a pain in the butt to take them off the mill and stick them back on the mill and clamp, make sure the dogs are clear of the blade's path
cut, flip the boards, clamp, cut, and then repeat until you get through the flitch boards...it's not the end of the world, and I have found alot of good uses for flitch boards with live edges..I simply want to be able to edge off the mill...I absolutley hate carrying a board back to the mill for some reason...

I don't want to scare you off of the idea, it's just something you have to deal with..

MotorSeven · March 20, 2009, 03:45:35 PM

Ah, I usually just pitch the flitch........ ;D
If it's hard wood or cedar I chainsaw them up into firewood. I agree, there's a ton of uses for them with bark-on, so sooner or later I'll find something for those pine scraps.
We did our taxes yesterday & are getting back way more than expected.....WM here I come..................

RD

Chico · March 20, 2009, 07:04:10 PM

Theres a lot of grade in those flitches as you call them If you're slabbing to a mof for 4 you may not lose as much but anything wider your giving money away . If you have power avail you can use a rip saw . As Zopi says the methods sawyers use are wide and varied us none want to rehandle lumber I'm trying to get a pic up of a yoke turner we built about 30 yrs ago I'm waiting on my bro to send it If he doesn't I'm going to put a drawing up it's a fast safe turner and it's not too hard on your machine
Chico

tyb525 · March 21, 2009, 12:32:08 PM

A cheap option for edging (albeit probably only good for a few flitches) is to get a corded circular saw (most people already have one) with a sharp blade, and chalk a line and edge that way. If you really need a precise edge, use a straight 1x3,4, etc, clamp on both ends, and use it as a fence.

This would be ineffecient for any amount of edging, but just a thought.

zopi · March 21, 2009, 04:24:45 PM

Nahh..I seldom pitch the flitch...I worked too hard to get it.

MotorSeven · March 22, 2009, 09:45:17 PM

Crap, I really thought it was going to be 4K. He wants $4,600 & I think it is too much for a plane jane WM with no extensions.
..........{sigh} back to the hunt...........

RD

Don K · March 23, 2009, 11:13:41 PM

If your getting two bed sections plus the head your are still cheaper than new.

Don

MotorSeven · March 25, 2009, 09:05:12 AM

Your right Don, I just think he is a little over priced. If I buy 2 WM tracks it puts me at $7K. Something used with a trailer pkg, larger engine & longer track can be had for 7K-9K. Just looking around the last couple of weeks & I don't see many available, so I may wait awhile & see what pops up.

RD