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Broken bleeder/injection pump

Started by sprucebunny, March 08, 2009, 12:58:31 PM

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sprucebunny

Stonebroke, I've been wondering about that. Loosening the screw, one might need to hold the base with a wrench, but the base of it is already tight when you go to tighten the bleed screw so why would holding it with the wrench make any difference ???
The screw is pushing against the flare part in either case and trying to push the 2 sections of the base apart no matter if you hold on to it or don't ?
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

beenthere

Hold the screw (small center stud) with a wrench, while loosening the lock nut (larger nut). That will relieve the "lock" and let the small stud turn. The lock nut binds it all together real tight when putting it back together. At least as it appears to me.  :)

Might find that with the lock nut loose, that the center stud will turn easily with ones fingers..for bleeding and shutting the flow off.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

stonebroke

When you loosen the bleeder screw hold the base in case the bleeder is frozen. That way you will not break the whole thing off. Once it is loosen to tighten it be real carefull. if it is still leaking it is probably a piece of dirt in the seat or the seat is damaged. It does not take a whole lot to tighten bleeder screws. ounce lbs of torque. More pressure does not make a better seal.


beenthere

.................

SB
Besides bleeding, is it possible these two "bleeder" screws you are pointing out are the low and high idle adjustment screws?   (edit ** I now know I am wrong on that, after more casual thought and finding a Lucas schematic.     ::) )

Do you have a schematic or parts list for the pump?  Trying to recall from a long time ago.  :)
Seems I remember making adjustments and finding out that tightening the lock nuts had some slight effect (frustrating, to say the least) on the desired results, having to do with reducing smoke under load at low rpm.  ::)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

sprucebunny

They are just bleeders. The long bolt to the left of the throttle linkage is the low idle adjustment.

Those are not lock nuts . They are seats. They do not turn to bleed it. Only the screw/bolt with the tapered inner end turns. It is either seated or bleeding.




This is the inside of it. Seat is on the left and the bleed screw/bolt is still in the base.
The bleed screw/bolt has a flat side that lets fuel out.
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Satamax

Well, i dug up this thread.

I have done exactly the same on my crane's Perkins last sunday  :(

I will see if i can fix it the same way!

Thanks sprucebunny, for leading the way.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

sprucebunny

Wishing you luck  8)

I had the pump rebuilt since then.
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Satamax

Quote from: sprucebunny on November 22, 2017, 08:14:11 PM
Wishing you luck  8)

I had the pump rebuilt since then.

I had a spare one, can you imagine? That i kept for years, bought specially for this T4236, just in case. And in spring, i wanted to sell a A4236 that i had laying around. Obviously, i had to fit that pump to it, since the original was shot. And i left the dead one, on the pallet! Banging my head against the wall for this. It's the middle of the night for me now. I will re read your thread tomorrow, with a clearer mind.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

North River Energy

Worst case scenario, just take that cover off the pump body. It's been a year or two, but I replaced the shaft seals 'in the field', on a similar pump without too much drama.
If memory serves, there's essentially a tab under there, attached to the throttle shaft that pulls on a spring to affect the governor, and that's about it.
And a bunch of fuel that want's to drip on your boots.

Satamax

Thanks guys.

North, i know i can remove the pump cover. Tho, not in place i would say. And i don't  have time. The snow is supposed to come next week.  And i still need to work on  a roof, in a pass at 6500ft elevation.  :( And plenty of other things.

Sprucebunny.

Do you remember the number of the part? Or do you have this stored somewhere?

Thanks a lot.

Max.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

Satamax

Well, didn't even have to grind. It pulled right out by hand.

Ans i ordered the proper bleed from ebay UK.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

sprucebunny

I'm glad it was easy for you, too  8)

And you found the part fast ! My memory is awful and the computer I ordered it on probably doesn't work anymore.
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Gearbox

Now for your  air leak . Air up the tank with 2 pounds of air hold it on and look for leaks . Backhoes can be a bear to find every thing is hidden behind the loader frame .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

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